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Old 12-25-2016, 01:06 PM   #41
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Agreed! This is his 5th RV and my second. After working and tweaking, you get to know your rig. But with the computer systems, it's really getting tough to diagnose. And getting older doesn't help!
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Old 12-25-2016, 02:04 PM   #42
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So much of this new tech stuff is too sensitive to outside variables and has no backup procedure for when it fails. All these new vehicles with keyless ignition can be "killed" by outside sources along with a cell phone dependent public, that has no land line backup. Just saying...........
As a retired locksmith who sold and programmed many of these new tech devices I can assure you that there is a back-up system. Of course it may be found on page !$0 of the manual locked in the car. However, a key cleverly placed in conspicuously in the remote and held in place by a tiny button you have to depress to release. There is a tiny hole in the drivers door to unlock the car if the battery fails.
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Old 12-25-2016, 03:12 PM   #43
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System failu

Just to get a little bit back on track, this was not a computer or software failure... The device as installed by FR worked as designed... This was a systems failure... Most digital systems have a power back up (UPS etc.) this system does not. But it will! A simple switched and fused connection from chassis battery will provide temp power as needed... Installation to follow ASAP
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Old 12-27-2016, 06:20 PM   #44
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Attachment 126845 This is the backside of that panel cover listing the devices inside.

Thanks for posting all this information! A real eye-opener.


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Old 01-09-2017, 10:06 PM   #45
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Here's another real-life negative review:

MyRV OneControl Touch Panel is only Hype
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Old 02-16-2017, 07:27 PM   #46
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Hi Medic1. I realize your original post is coming up on 2 months old, but wondering if anyone was ever able to determine what caused the inverter/tablet breaker to trip? I'm curious how many watts your post-installed inverter was rated and if that may have been the culprit. Was the inverter hard wired or plugged into a 12 volt outlet? If plug-in type could you plug the inverter into one of the 12 volt chassis receptacles? Also curious how many watts the oxygen concentrate pulls and if you ever performed the back-up wiring from the chassis battery you spoke about. If so, were there any issues with the battery isolator when doing so? This would be valuable information for those who are traveling with medical devices. Thanks.
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Old 02-19-2017, 10:06 AM   #47
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Hey Net, we think this: The inverter was drawing high amperage due to the oxygen concentrator. The house battery/converter system maxes out at 60 amps. The breaker is a 50 amp. At some point it went over 50 and popped it. The post installed inverter is a quality 1000 watts. The concentrator at peak will draw 720 watts. The inverter was hard wired BUT into the house battery 12 volt system. This was putting a strain on the converter that was trying to keep the house batteries charged as well as the 50 amp breaker that was running at 80 plus % of its capacity. Many people don't realize that a circuit breaker that continually runs at 80+% will eventually trip even though it hasn't reached its full capacity. The inverter is now wired through a fuse directly to the engine alternator and we have had no further problems. We didn't do the backup wiring yet.
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Old 03-29-2017, 07:16 AM   #48
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Are you sure you don't have a switch in the bedroom for the lights??
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Old 03-29-2017, 07:17 AM   #49
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Were you running the generator on the road, when it first happened?
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Old 03-29-2017, 07:31 AM   #50
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I'm going to throw a wild assed guess out..
here's what I think happened...

You installed an inverter that may not have been up to the task of running the O2 thing.

You may have maxed out the inverter, which caused it to trip the breaker.

Instead of installing your own, dedicated breaker, you just happened to use the breaker that feeds the precision circuits system.
When that breaker didn't auto reset, it took down everything.

Maybe ??
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Old 03-29-2017, 08:35 AM   #51
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Hey Net, we think this: The inverter was drawing high amperage due to the oxygen concentrator. The house battery/converter system maxes out at 60 amps. The breaker is a 50 amp. At some point it went over 50 and popped it. The post installed inverter is a quality 1000 watts. The concentrator at peak will draw 720 watts. The inverter was hard wired BUT into the house battery 12 volt system. This was putting a strain on the converter that was trying to keep the house batteries charged as well as the 50 amp breaker that was running at 80 plus % of its capacity. Many people don't realize that a circuit breaker that continually runs at 80+% will eventually trip even though it hasn't reached its full capacity. The inverter is now wired through a fuse directly to the engine alternator and we have had no further problems. We didn't do the backup wiring yet.
Hi Medic. Good to hear you went with the chassis battery. From what you've posted previously I'm sure you know the wire size to the inverter from the battery can handle the load and the circuit breaker matches. If you have any more trouble maybe a 1500 or 2000 watt inverter running at 1/2 to 1/3 of its rating would be better but then you're changing wire and breaker size. I applaud you for finding, hopefully all, of your hidden "treasures". Like you, I wrongly assumed all 12v fuses were in the power center. There is room in mine for 6 to 8 more fuses but that may not be allowed due to maximum fuse limitations. I also found fuses under the coach and one behind the water filter door for the water pump and all those tiny breakers with reset buttons behind different panels are something else. The factory has to have a schematic to wire each coach model and they should provide us with at least a simplified location diagram!
On a somewhat related note, our 3051S has a switch under the driver's seat that will start the engine if the chassis battery dies. You must hold it in the on position while turning the key as it isn't designed to stay on. Safe travels!
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Old 03-29-2017, 08:44 AM   #52
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Are you sure you don't have a switch in the bedroom for the lights??
If Medic's Forester is wired like mine, the only manual switches are the bathroom area for lights and exhaust fan, 2 lights over the bed and all of the little button operated LED pucks around the living/kitchen area. All others are controlled by the tablets. I have a large tablet by the entry door and a small tablet in the bedroom. No other switches.
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Old 03-29-2017, 09:12 AM   #53
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Fortunately i do not have one of these. I like switches anyway. My two cents, and I don't want to get overly involved in this discussion, is that it is a bad idea. How many of you have a stick house with one of those neat Nutone room to room intercoms that still works? Mine is covered with a corkboard in the kitchen, but I still have 10 or more remotes in rooms that no longer serve any purpose. How many wireless remote electrical plugins have you thrown in the garbage. While at first we could all say that this is the same thing that happened with computers in vehicles...but in reality, it isn't. Modern vehicles have oxygen sensors, individual cylinder spark coils, fuel injectors, mass air sensors, throttle position sensors. The list is endless. They now all have drive by wire because you can't do all of this with cables and relays. This was all done in search of fuel efficiency and generally it worked.

A tablet in place of a light switch is not a good idea for long term sustainability. When it fails...you too will need to get a cork board, but then how will you control your slides, levelers, lights, fans and such?

This is son of Zamp. Really cool marketing proposition but unsustainable long term RV support. An unused Zamp connector is one thing but at least you can ignore it.
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Old 03-29-2017, 12:34 PM   #54
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Yea, that seems to be a crap system.
I can open my slides with the app, but still have hard buttons on the wall.
The auto level are hard buttons.
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Old 03-29-2017, 12:43 PM   #55
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Yea, that seems to be a crap system.
I can open my slides with the app, but still have hard buttons on the wall.
The auto level are hard buttons.
Answer to a nonexistent problem. Parts will be haRd to find and "upgrades" will not be available. Imagine that next you will be able to close your slides from the other side of the world. Now temp monitoring would be useful and a bunch of passive monitoring using cell connection and iot technology (temp, SOC, still frames, etc during storage.) Maybe they have it, but keep the manual controls! If it fails yout can still use everything.
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Old 03-29-2017, 01:00 PM   #56
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I have the Jensen InCommand. It is the latest whiz-bang computer controlled touch-pad system that Keystone is using. It has similar issues. With the exception of jacks, slides and awning (I think), you are SOL if the system goes down. For the things I mentioned, there are manual switches on the BCM (brain), located in the cargo/basement area. For everything else controlled by the system you cannot turn on or off without the system.

There are a few lights wired outside the system that you can control manually, however everything else (other lights, water heater, water pump, etc.) you cannot control manually.

There are times the system locks up and requires a reboot, so I have my doubts on its lifespan.

So far so good though. It is sweet as long as it keeps working.
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Old 03-29-2017, 01:02 PM   #57
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"The factory has to have a schematic to wire each coach model and they should provide us with at least a simplified location diagram!"

Just part of the long "live and learn/should" list.

If you want a wiring schematic the best way is to require "they" provide it before you take possession of the unit.

All of this ends up being the responsibility of the owner at the end of the day. If you didn't get "their" shoulds, it's your mistake.
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