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Old 06-01-2016, 07:32 PM   #121
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Some notes on that bedroom tv - it will not accept a DVD unless you set the source to DVD. Of course if your remote is not working it would be difficult to change the source. There are buttons on the top of the TV and you could do it from those. But how are you going to see those to know which ones to push.
We tried taking the TV off the wall and using the manual buttons. A DVD would load about half way in to the slot and then stop.

It was kind of humorous watching the tech, warranty coordinator, and my DW all passing around the manual and quick start guide trying different ways to get it to work. I just went on to the next section in my PDI check list...

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Thanks, I pulled out the outlet and there is no power at the back that's why I'm wondering if there is an inline fuse somewhere, I couldn't find anything in the wall.
I asked if there were any other inline fuses, besides the water pump, and was told no...at least not that they know of anyway.

My next step would to be to put a tracer tone on the cable and see where I could find it next. You'll need a Toner / Tracer like the one shown Here to do that. Make sure the 12VDC power is off when you are tracing the wires. The Tone Generator can do a very good job appearing as a a short and blowing fuses! The Tone should appear at one of the two 12VDC fuse blocks unless there is a blown in line fuse or bad wiring.
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Old 06-01-2016, 08:39 PM   #122
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I had same problems with my bedroom TV. I put in Duracell batteries that fixed the remote. And about 20 minutes later I figured out the TV mode must be in DVD mode to accept a DVD or eject it. It's a temperamental TV for sure.
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Old 06-02-2016, 07:44 AM   #123
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Originally Posted by Creativepart View Post
Some notes on that bedroom tv - it will not accept a DVD unless you set the source to DVD. Of course if your remote is not working it would be difficult to change the source. There are buttons on the top of the TV and you could do it from those. But how are you going to see those to know which ones to push.

ALL three of the TVs in my coach are 12-volt.
X2.

Future project might be to find a TV mount that will allow the tv to move down enough to access the buttons for when TV remote is not working and also to access wiring and inputs when needed without having to unmount tv from cabinet.
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Old 06-02-2016, 08:26 AM   #124
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I had same problems with my bedroom TV. I put in Duracell batteries that fixed the remote.
This remote has loose parts rattling around inside of it... I doubt they could get a new remote without a new TV attached to it...

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Future project might be to find a TV mount that will allow the tv to move down enough to access the buttons for when TV remote is not working and also to access wiring and inputs when needed without having to unmount tv from cabinet.
The bedroom TV has one of the \__/ shaped "slide in slide out" mounts for inside / outside TV usage. Easy to remove the TV and not too bad to reinstall it. The biggest "gripe" I have is the power and cable connections are below the TV. That makes them real easy to bump, especially with the 12VDC plug sticking out! It would have been a lot smarter design to have mounted them higher up above the TV.
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Old 06-02-2016, 08:38 AM   #125
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Redldr1 I have a solution for the tv wires I'll take a pic later today and post what I used.
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Old 06-08-2016, 08:20 AM   #126
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I asked if there were any other inline fuses, besides the water pump, and was told no...at least not that they know of anyway.

My next step would to be to put a tracer tone on the cable and see where I could find it next. You'll need a Toner / Tracer like the one shown Here to do that. Make sure the 12VDC power is off when you are tracing the wires. The Tone Generator can do a very good job appearing as a a short and blowing fuses! The Tone should appear at one of the two 12VDC fuse blocks unless there is a blown in line fuse or bad wiring.[/QUOTE]


I picked up the tone generator you suggested yesterday, next time out to storage I'll try and track this down and report back.



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Old 06-09-2016, 04:52 PM   #127
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Redldr1 I cleaned up the bedroom TV with some inexpensive items. . First I bought a 12v adapter that points up so that plug isn't as easy to hit when getting into bed or to the closet. The next was a right angle cable connector which again let's the cable go straight up to TV and not stick out from the wall. Finally I put the wires together and used some wire loom to cover it all and make it basically one wire to behind the TV. . There is a lot of room behind the TV to hide the excess wire.

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Old 06-09-2016, 06:38 PM   #128
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Nice job that looks way better, another project for the list when I get that 12v outlet working again.
I forgot to mention when I was coming out of my last camp spot on a bumpy dirt road the generator end of its exhaust pipe came off leaving it hanging by the rubber mount.
Not a big deal the clamp was a bit loose I guess.


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Old 06-09-2016, 10:24 PM   #129
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sgtim17: where did you get that adapter?
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Old 06-09-2016, 10:46 PM   #130
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sgtim17: where did you get that adapter?
I get most everything at Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0028...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 06-09-2016, 10:59 PM   #131
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More 2801 mods

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Good. ?Keep that stock going up.😎
Thanks.
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Old 06-10-2016, 03:07 PM   #132
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The 90° adapter cleaned up the TV power point very nicely....as did the split loom. I'll put that on my to-do list.

My first "mods" are in now. First, the MaxxAir 7500K in the bedroom. Second, a nice carpet Lloyds Floor Mat, in tan color, to cover the cab floor area. Third, H.E.M. interior reflective window covers for the windshield and front doors. FWIW I had them in the MBS and they fit and worked great. Fourth, an ADCO white vinyl windshield cover for the outside while in storage or long term stays. Once again I had one of those on the MBS and it worked great. And last Camco corner protectors on all eight slide out corners. Nothing big yet but we are still finding out what we need to look at....

My first real project is to replace all cargo bay locks with locks that aren't CH751 keyed. Unfortunately the key style used in the Tri-Mark house door locks are not used in the style lock cylinders utilized for cargo doors. So I'm looking at either using Global Link style keys or tubular "Ace" style keyed lock sets. I need to measure all the lock cylinders before I place the order...
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Old 06-12-2016, 07:04 PM   #133
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I installed "Ace" style lock sets this afternoon. I changed out all the cargo door locks except for the sewer bay door. I also left the outside shower a CH751. It took about 4-5 minutes per lock to exchange the OEM CH751 for the new lock. I replaced nine locks in just under an hour. It would have been quicker if I hadn't needed to redo a couple I manged to install backwards the first try...

If anyone else is going to do this mod you need the 1 1/8 inch length lock cylinder to replace the OEM locks. All of the OEM locks, except the outside shower door, are identical. The OEM outside shower door has a funky little lock style I didn't feel like messing with...so it stayed a CH751 along with the sewer bay cargo door.

This is a simple mod that is just a remove and replace. You'll need a #2 Phillips screw driver and a 7/8 inch wrench to remove the OEM locks. Depending on the brand of replacement lock you use you may need a 7/16 wrench, along with the 7/8 inch wrench, to install the new ones.
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Old 06-27-2016, 04:50 PM   #134
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New to the forum and to a 2015 2801 GTS. Would someone please tell me how to turn on the two lights which are located above the front storage cabinets.

Thanks!
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Old 06-27-2016, 04:55 PM   #135
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I believe the 2015 model has switch inside the cabinet
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Old 06-27-2016, 05:15 PM   #136
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inside right cabinet
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Old 06-29-2016, 01:09 PM   #137
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Yesterday morning on our way to the campground I ran our GTS over a CAT Scale. 13,800lbs loaded with us, our gear, a full tank of gas, and a half tank of fresh water. It sure was nice to hit the scales and not be close to overweight....

My DW bought, assembled and installed a Under The Sink Organizer to get the area under the kitchen sink organized. The one she chose was an expandable version from the Container Store and it worked pretty well. With all the "stuff" she has under the sink you can hardly tell it is in there... The only downside to this particular model is the instructions consist of a few pictographs on the box...

I added two more 1A:-10:BC Fire Extinguishers. One on the backside of the dinette just behind the drivers seat. The second in the bedroom in the rear corner between the bed and closet. The only issue I found was the "wood" on the back of the dinette is fairly flimsy. I need to get some expanding bolts to better secure the mounting bracket.

I'm now looking at how to best use the wasted space between the dinette and kitchen cabinet. I may relocate the Dyson to there and install clamps to hold the different parts. Anyone find a good use for that space?
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Old 06-30-2016, 07:26 AM   #138
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Thank you both! I looked all over with no luck and there it was, thanks again.
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Old 06-30-2016, 09:52 AM   #139
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I've been doing a few things, I picked up a new latch for the pantry, I'm not to crazy about how if the door isn't open all the way the pantry slide hits the latch. I've already broken it once and I can see it happening again. I picked up a WiFi extender from TechnoRV with a Yagi antennae and made a couple adapters to use a tripod or paint pole with it.
But I also ordered the new LevelMatePro, it looks pretty slick.
https://rv-roadtrips.thefuntimesguid...ing-system.php
We don't have any leveling system in our rig and camp in some pretty rough spots this will tell you how level you are and how many inches each tire needs to come up. All from the driver's seat on your phone via Bluetooth. Pretty cool.
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Old 06-30-2016, 06:42 PM   #140
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Yikes, Brian. I guess I lucked out. Thought the 2801 came with the leveling system.
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