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Old 05-20-2013, 08:11 AM   #1
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Nasty Surprise

When I picked up my Forrester from getting warranty work done I was forced to hold the steering wheel at 2 oclock to keep the the rig rolling straight. I checked the toad for a steering related issue and didn't find anything. The behavior held steady for about thirty minutes. Then I felt what I can only describe as a hydraulic ram movement through the steering column and then I was headed for the side of the road. The steering wheel had recentered and was back to a 12 o'clock position straight ahead. Has anyone experienced this before? The problem has not reoccurred so there is no chance a mechanic would be able to troubleshoot the issue but I would like some ideas as to what might have caused this behavior. FYI I've driven the stretch of I-40 that is occurred on repeatedly and I am certain that the crown of the road was not the cause.
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Old 05-20-2013, 09:43 AM   #2
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Steering Damper?

Look underneath your front axle and make sure the damper (looks like small shock) is not damaged, bracket coming lose on frame or u-clamps lose on tie-rod. This helps to keep your steering centered. Of course check tire pressures and steering fluid.

Just something quick to check that could be bidding the steering tie-rod.

Tim
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Old 05-20-2013, 07:54 PM   #3
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Pretty scary sounding. I don't have an answer, but tuning in hoping you get some input and resolve this issue. That could've been bad.
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:06 PM   #4
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That is scary. Could be something in the power steering pilot or centering spool valve. Was the wheel fighting you such that if you let it go it would center and head for the side of the road? I would normally think it was a toad problem with it's steering column lock system kicking in or Toad caster issues. Not sure what your toad is but there are some vehicles that have caster setting such that they do not center well when towing which could push the tail of the RV and give the sensation you felt. However the "hydraulic" comment you made would seem to indicate a power steering system issue on the coach. Do you have a toad braking system? Could it be interfering with the toad ABS system somehow?

I've never been a fan of 4 down towing and think a dolly is a much safer and problem free method. A dolly has better braking with much less wear and tear on the towed vehicle.
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Old 12-29-2013, 08:50 PM   #5
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Happened twice to us this summer...was told to put air in the tires. Problem resolved
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Old 01-25-2014, 10:57 AM   #6
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Just in case folks are wondering if the mystery pull claimed me, it didn't. The problem was that the club I was using to secure the steering wheel of the toad was getting moved and wedged in a turned position when the toad went over a bump going around a corner. At low speed the pull wasn't severe but once you got up to highway speeds it was. Pulling into the direction of the wedge or hitting another bump dislodged the club. That's why I didn't find the problem the first time. The fix was to swap the club with one that hooks to the clutch. I suppose I could have extended the handle on the club but that still allowed some one way movement when the club pushed into the seat instead of pushing against the console or door. There was nothing wrong with the rig.
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Old 01-25-2014, 02:41 PM   #7
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Just in case folks are wondering if the mystery pull claimed me, it didn't. The problem was that the club I was using to secure the steering wheel of the toad was getting moved and wedged in a turned position when the toad went over a bump going around a corner. At low speed the pull wasn't severe but once you got up to highway speeds it was. Pulling into the direction of the wedge or hitting another bump dislodged the club. That's why I didn't find the problem the first time. The fix was to swap the club with one that hooks to the clutch. I suppose I could have extended the handle on the club but that still allowed some one way movement when the club pushed into the seat instead of pushing against the console or door. There was nothing wrong with the rig.

Assuming you are towing 4 down you should have the steering wheel free to turn. There should be no club and the ignition lock, if you have one, should be free. Restricting steering wheel movement in turns will cause severe stress on the steering system, tear up the tires in turns and possibly break something on the towbar/hitch. It needs to be free to track behind the coach. However if you are towing on a dolly then you want the steering wheel locked.
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Old 01-26-2014, 03:33 PM   #8
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I always thought that the steering lock was needed to keep the vehicle from wandering when large vehicles pass or in high winds...
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Old 01-26-2014, 04:07 PM   #9
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oddly enough

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I always thought that the steering lock was needed to keep the vehicle from wandering when large vehicles pass or in high winds...

towing 4 down this may sound odd, but, the unlocked steering wheel allows the toad to follow and track properly and should not be affected by passing semis or heavy winds
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Old 01-26-2014, 04:14 PM   #10
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as odd as it sounds, the unlocked steering wheel allows the toad to follow and track properly
Maybe it's just me,but I don't think its odd to keep the toad steering wheel unlocked.

I would find it odd to lock the toads steering wheel when towing it - would you lock your vehicles steering wheel while driving it?
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Old 01-26-2014, 04:23 PM   #11
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I always thought that the steering lock was needed to keep the vehicle from wandering when large vehicles pass or in high winds...
Just google the question and you will find no one recommends 4 down towing with the wheel locked. If you have towed much with the steering locked you should consider inspecting your toad carefully for wear/damage to the tires, steering, suspension, and towing components. It would put a lot of stress on them while turning.
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Old 01-26-2014, 04:31 PM   #12
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I new that would sound odd

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Maybe it's just me,but I don't think its odd to keep the toad steering wheel unlocked.

I would find it odd to lock the toads steering wheel when towing it - would you lock your vehicles steering wheel while driving it?

I read it three times before I posted it....The steering wheel should definately be unlocked....
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Old 01-26-2014, 04:32 PM   #13
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Way back when I had a Class C and pulled my old CJ with oversized tires I had an incident where I hit a bump with the CJ that caused bump steer to full right turn lock. Being all the way to the right prevented it to return to center and thus dragged to a stop. After that I always loosely tied the steering wheel so that it could never turn past 10 o'clock or 2 o'clock
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Old 01-26-2014, 04:44 PM   #14
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Way back when I had a Class C and pulled my old CJ with oversized tires I had an incident where I hit a bump with the CJ that caused bump steer to full right turn lock. Being all the way to the right prevented it to return to center and thus dragged to a stop. After that I always loosely tied the steering wheel so that it could never turn past 10 o'clock or 2 o'clock
That I could understand doing - we have a friend who tows one of those little smart cars behind his Monaco MH. He criss crosses two bungee cords on his steering wheel to dampen side to side movements,but the steering wheel is unlocked.

He said he could see the smart car drift side to side while towing in his MH rear camera,,thus the bungee cords and no more drifting.
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Old 01-26-2014, 09:36 PM   #15
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It's easy to believe that the toad hitch (blue-ox, roadmaster or other) is the pivot point for the toad - same as a ball hitch of a trailer. The big difference in towing a toad (car, truck, or Jeep) is the wheel base of the vehicle; the distance between the toads front wheel able and the rear wheel axle. The wheel base of the toad is much further apart and doesn't turn inline as a tandem axle trailer does. Even tandem axle trailer axles fight a tight turn as can be seen with tires opposing. Think of that same when you attempt a tight turn with a toad. The rear tires of the toad won't fight as hard since they follow but the front tires will fight since they are lock to always go straight.
The same is true when even using a tow dolly - leave the steering well unlocked; the toad rear wheels will follow the hitch center.
No steering wheel club should be used unless you want something damaged.
It is different and uneasy leaving the key in the ignition, car unlocked near ready to drive off but the only time the toad should be in this condition is when being towed. If I stop for a bit I take the keys out of the toad and put then on the floorboard of the coach then I lock the coach. When I am ready to get back on the road I see the toad keys before I pull off in the coach.
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Old 01-27-2014, 11:54 AM   #16
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The same is true when even using a tow dolly - leave the steering well unlocked; the toad rear wheels will follow the hitch center.
Not true on all dollies. My Master Tow Dolly has a big caution in the instructions saying to lock the steering. If you don't have a steering lock it says make something up to lock the steering wheel from moving. The pivoting bed on the dolly allows the car to swing in turns. I read that some cheaper dollies do not have a pivoting bed so the steering should be free on them.
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Old 01-27-2014, 12:21 PM   #17
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Not true on all dollies. My Master Tow Dolly has a big caution in the instructions saying to lock the steering. If you don't have a steering lock it says make something up to lock the steering wheel from moving. The pivoting bed on the dolly allows the car to swing in turns. I read that some cheaper dollies do not have a pivoting bed so the steering should be free on them.
Yup, my bad. I went through this a few months back when I personally researched tow dolly loading. The directions for most brands are to center the steering wheel and lock it. Most tow dollies have a fender or skirt on the dolly wheel that be hit by the pivoting steering of the tow car.
Sorry to muddle with confusion on the issue.
Thanks for straightenting me out.
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