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Old 08-31-2016, 11:14 AM   #31
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Here is a cool link on Class C handling.
http://blueox.com/wp-content/uploads...isHandling.pdf
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Old 08-31-2016, 11:22 AM   #32
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Here is a cool link on Class C handling.
http://blueox.com/wp-content/uploads...isHandling.pdf
That is a nice little cheat sheet
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Old 09-01-2016, 08:43 AM   #33
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So the OEM sway bar on the front appears to be 23mm in width and both the Hellwig and Blue Ox replacements are the same size at almost 35mm. Since they are the same size is there any reason to prefer one over the other other than cost?
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Old 09-01-2016, 08:58 AM   #34
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new, I believe they are comparable. Also, if you DIY, the rear trac and sway share the same sway bat "D" clamp bolts on the axle so are a good pair to do together.
Oh, and there are too many satisfied customers to be overkill btw, in case you're wondering about that other post up there.
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Old 09-01-2016, 10:22 AM   #35
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new, I believe they are comparable. Also, if you DIY, the rear trac and sway share the same sway bat "D" clamp bolts on the axle so are a good pair to do together.
Oh, and there are too many satisfied customers to be overkill btw, in case you're wondering about that other post up there.
Agreed on doing the trac and sway bar together to save some work. And I'm certain that the amount of feedback on the topic with the positive results warrants the additional cost and effort on my part.
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Old 10-17-2016, 03:05 AM   #36
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I replaced the sway bars on my class C,the sway bars they come with are to small the helliwig sway bars are much bigger , and replaced the steering stabilizer,and had it align.It handles like a dream.A pleasure to drive.
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Old 10-17-2016, 12:24 PM   #37
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Great to hear Romnan. Well worth the effort/cost.
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Old 10-18-2016, 01:18 AM   #38
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I replaced the sway bars on my class C,the sway bars they come with are to small the helliwig sway bars are much bigger , and replaced the steering stabilizer,and had it align.It handles like a dream.A pleasure to drive.

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Old 10-23-2016, 07:13 AM   #39
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Sway bar adjustment

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CAF (cheap ass fix) did the most for my Encounter 36BH...wish I had done it before steering stabilizer and rear trac bar...you will have to search for details but on my chassis it involved changing the tension on the existing sway bars
A guy has a you-tube video on adjusting existing sway bars on the Ford F53 chassis. I did it and it works but for me not enough. It made 100% improvement on back roads where your speeds are less than 60 mph. When I got on I 75 doing 65-70 and 18 wheelers came by at 80. I had to get off the next exit. I'm hoping the Blue Ox front and rear stabilizer bars make the difference. I'm no lightweight I drove 18 wheeler s for 4 years, Fire rescues, Fire engines and aerial ladders for 30 years. This week is the first time I ever drove a RV. If the Blue Ox system does not fix this I will be selling. Can someone tell me that it does work before spending another couple thousand? Driving a FR3 30DS . Salesman told me that a Class A sways less than a same length Class C. Is this true?
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Old 11-06-2016, 06:35 AM   #40
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Hi. As stated in another reply about a week ago Im testing out new sway bars. I did the hole relocation on my 2016 FR3 30DS F53 chassis front and rear. Small improvement but it did seem better.GVW is only 16660lbs, weight distribution is 37% front and 63% rear. Installed a new front sway bar 1 3/4" thick, additional small improvement, next I installed a rear track bar, WOW 75% improvement with side to side movement out on I75 with 18 wheelers passing. Ordered a new additional rear sway bar thats added to not replacing. Will be installing next week. This should help with top swaying side to side. Im doing one at a time to see what makes the biggest difference. At this point if someone is going to install just one of the three I would suggest the rear track bar. Ford already realized the front needed one so they come with it now. What Im trying to understand, do all gas light weight motorhomes handle like this. Still at this point I have no intensions driving this vehicle up to the mountains. Im learning quickly that $90K to $100K for a motorhome is on the low cheap end of the scale. My 2016 FR3 interior seems very cheap. First time I used the shower the P trap leaked water, shower door frame was not caulked and leaked water out on the floor, Bottom of all the drawers, I had to caulk because if any weight in them at all would cause them to pop out. I renailed a lot of the wood trim because it was loose. I guess a good quality motorhome might be out of my price range.
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