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Old 06-27-2016, 10:59 AM   #91
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I used 10 gauge from panels to controller and 6 gauge from controller to batteries but is probably overkill. The 10 gauge may have been borderline but is working fine. Figure out how far of a run you have and put into a voltage drop calculator to get the gauge you need. 5% drop should be ok. I have read that up to 10% is even acceptable. You will need to put in the amp output of your panels also. If 15-20 feet you should be ok with 10 gauge.
The circuit breaker shut off is the way to go. Really no reason to turn on/off once set up.
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Old 06-27-2016, 11:52 AM   #92
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I used 10 gauge from panels to controller and 6 gauge from controller to batteries but is probably overkill. The 10 gauge may have been borderline but is working fine. Figure out how far of a run you have and put into a voltage drop calculator to get the gauge you need. 5% drop should be ok. I have read that up to 10% is even acceptable. You will need to put in the amp output of your panels also. If 15-20 feet you should be ok with 10 gauge.
The circuit breaker shut off is the way to go. Really no reason to turn on/off once set up.
Thanks, diagramed my connections. I figure I will need some short cables from the connectors on the panels to the first "Y". Going to use the 12 awg wire I showed you for that. Should only be 5 18-feet in length. Then from the first "Y" down the fridge vent around and under the floor and cabinets to just before the controller will be 10 awg of about 20 feet. I will place another "Y" just before the controller for the portable 100w Renogy suitcase to attach using my existing Anderson connector (photo below) just outside my step well. From the second "Y" to the controller will be just under a foot. I will attach one of the fused/cutoff switches like you used with 8 awg and run 8 awg and another fused/cutoff to the battery cutoff switch on the positive and to the frame bus bar for the negative.
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Old 06-27-2016, 08:32 PM   #93
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Neighbor trying to burst my bubble!

Spoke with my neighbor this afternoon. He's an electrical, mechanical technical engineer. I told him how I was going to install my solar. He said it's not good to put the solar cables from the panels to the controller down the fridge vent because of heat. He said the heat will cause added resistance and could cause the cable, controller and or panels to fail. I said most are installing it down the vent. He replied the correct way is to get a little roof mount stress relief housing and drill a hole into the void next to the fridge vent shaft.
Any comments?
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Old 06-27-2016, 09:26 PM   #94
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Spoke with my neighbor this afternoon. He's an electrical, mechanical technical engineer. I told him how I was going to install my solar. He said it's not good to put the solar cables from the panels to the controller down the fridge vent because of heat. He said the heat will cause added resistance and could cause the cable, controller and or panels to fail. I said most are installing it down the vent. He replied the correct way is to get a little roof mount stress relief housing and drill a hole into the void next to the fridge vent shaft.
Any comments?
When it comes time, I'm going down the vent shaft. It's low temp heat. It's not a chimney, lol.
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Old 06-27-2016, 11:13 PM   #95
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Spoke with my neighbor this afternoon. He's an electrical, mechanical technical engineer. I told him how I was going to install my solar. He said it's not good to put the solar cables from the panels to the controller down the fridge vent because of heat. He said the heat will cause added resistance and could cause the cable, controller and or panels to fail. I said most are installing it down the vent. He replied the correct way is to get a little roof mount stress relief housing and drill a hole into the void next to the fridge vent shaft.
Any comments?
I don't see my fridge vent getting that hot to where I would be concerned. I also have my wires in a split wire loom which also protects them somewhat. They are run down the side several inches from anything that gets hot. Many have done it and I have not heard anyone who has had a problem with the heat.
If so, we should probably not have any wiring in our engine compartments either.
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Old 06-28-2016, 12:16 AM   #96
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I don't see my fridge vent getting that hot to where I would be concerned. I also have my wires in a split wire loom which also protects them somewhat. They are run down the side several inches from anything that gets hot. Many have done it and I have not heard anyone who has had a problem with the heat.
If so, we should probably not have any wiring in our engine compartments either.
I agree. I'm going to try and use your method of running it all the way down and thru one of the foamed over holes at the base of the fridge. There's one used by a white and a green wire on the non flue side and I can run it along the base over to the other side and down by the propane line. Either will work.

Has anyone removed the fridge mesh vent base from the roof for easier install? The stress relief connectors could be used and drill a hole in the side of the vent shaft to the void next to the fridge. Easy feed to the cabinets below for fishing.
Just a thought!!??

Received the 2 Renogy 100watt mono panels today along with 60' of cable. The controller will be here tomorrow and the StickFeet on Thursday. Going to take my time as it was 110˚ today and I'm having other issues.

Before I forget, HopHed how many tubes of 5200 did you use for the 12 StickyFeet?
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Old 06-28-2016, 12:44 AM   #97
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I agree. I'm going to try and use your method of running it all the way down and thru one of the foamed over holes at the base of the fridge. There's one used by a white and a green wire on the non flue side and I can run it along the base over to the other side and down by the propane line. Either will work.

Has anyone removed the fridge mesh vent base from the roof for easier install? The stress relief connectors could be used and drill a hole in the side of the vent shaft to the void next to the fridge. Easy feed to the cabinets below for fishing.
Just a thought!!??

Received the 2 Renogy 100watt mono panels today along with 60' of cable. The controller will be here tomorrow and the StickFeet on Thursday. Going to take my time as it was 110˚ today and I'm having other issues.

Before I forget, HopHed how many tubes of 5200 did you use for the 12 StickyFeet?
Actually the wire loom was an after thought. Did not like the way the wires separated and moved easily. so added the loom to keep it away from anything that might cut into the wire and from the condenser which gets hot. Also looks much cleaner. I did about half from the top, opening the hole in the mesh a little and then also fed up from the bottom till they met.
As far as the 5200 goes one 10 oz tube was more than enough and even have almost half a tube left but they say no good after open 24 hours. Was a little nervous after doing a few that it would not be enough but it went much further then anticipated.
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Old 06-28-2016, 02:10 AM   #98
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Actually the wire loom was an after thought. Did not like the way the wires separated and moved easily. so added the loom to keep it away from anything that might cut into the wire and from the condenser which gets hot. Also looks much cleaner. I did about half from the top, opening the hole in the mesh a little and then also fed up from the bottom till they met.
As far as the 5200 goes one 10 oz tube was more than enough and even have almost half a tube left but they say no good after open 24 hours. Was a little nervous after doing a few that it would not be enough but it went much further then anticipated.
HopHed, remember I mentioned the cabinet above my fridge and that we originally used it as the pantry. But it got too hot up there and we didn't have to heat up the baked beans (joke). It does get quite warm. Will have to use my heat gun next week and see how hot it does get. Now it's just paper plates, bowls and napkins along with the coffee pot.
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:27 AM   #99
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Spoke with my neighbor this afternoon. He's an electrical, mechanical technical engineer. I told him how I was going to install my solar. He said it's not good to put the solar cables from the panels to the controller down the fridge vent because of heat. He said the heat will cause added resistance and could cause the cable, controller and or panels to fail. I said most are installing it down the vent. He replied the correct way is to get a little roof mount stress relief housing and drill a hole into the void next to the fridge vent shaft.
Any comments?
Sage - I did drill a hole and use a baby box enclosure to minimize drop. But I also used 6 ga as my down wire from the box to the controller. Handybob reviewed and said it was overkill "Do not change a thing". As for the heat adding resistance, if you are at the limit of your target drop percentage, then it could be an issue - if you are less than 1% it is a non-issue.
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Old 06-28-2016, 05:50 PM   #100
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Feeling GREAT today, ready to slowly start laying the cables. Removed the fridge vent cover and dropped a line with a nail down wire mesh and chute as far from the flue as possible. Then grabbed the line and drilled a pilot hole in the luan at the bottom side panel of the back fridge compartment and pushed the nail and line down there. Went under the fridge and caught the line. I had already fished line under the cabinets and raised floor over to the stove and sink cabinets. So I'm set pull the cable.
Question, instead of cutting the wire mesh and inserting the cables, has anyone drilled holes in the side of the fridge vent base? That way the wire mesh won't be abrading the cable. I'd add stress relief fittings but the job of putting the nut on is impossible without cutting the mesh.
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