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Old 07-08-2016, 07:19 PM   #121
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Ran a test today using the hollow wall anchors on a piece of styrofoam with 1/8"luan on top. I drilled a hole in the Stickyfeet for the screw to go thru. Had excellent tightness (didn't remove tape covering). Have to allow for the thickness of the top of the hollow wall anchor by cutting a small round section of the 3M VHB tape around the screw hole. No problem.
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Old 07-09-2016, 08:33 PM   #122
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Almost done!

Today I washed the roof, laid out the position of the panels and marked them. I sanded down some of the dimples a and drilled the holes for the hollow wall anchors. I tapped them in and wiped down the area with 50% alcohol and water. I placed the mount on top and screwed the hollow wall anchors tight. I replaced all the mounting bolts and plugged in the cables and it's working fine! When it cools down this evening or tomorrow morning I will raise the panels up with those blocks, wipe down the area again with 50% alcohol and water. After it dries, I will remove the red film and lower the mount while screwing in the hollow wall anchor screw. Then I should be done for 72 hours until it cures. Then I will apply 3M 5200 Marine adhesive caulk around the mounts and that is a slow cure of 7 days. I know this is overkill, but I need peace of mind traveling in high gusty winds.
Special thanks to HopHed for the suggestion of raising the panels with wood blocks and just dropping the mounts into place.
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Old 07-09-2016, 09:39 PM   #123
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6 x !00 watt Renogy panels mounted with "GOOP" and well nuts into 10 GA cable down a hole in the fiberglass roof, down the side wall into the area under the dinette. Made a lexan pod to mount all temp and voltage/amperage instruments. I used breakers between the controller and panels and between the controller and battery bank.
I'm using the MT-5 remote monitor on a wall at eye level just inside the door. The system has worked flawlessly for about three years. Also use a 5,000 watt inverter to a Progressive ATS504 switch. Five AGM batteries make up the 600 amp hr bank.
The only problem I have with the system is seagull poop. Normally have about 68 vdc coming from the panels until I get dive bombed! Out comes the ladder.
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Old 07-09-2016, 09:59 PM   #124
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Blackhat6mike, you've got a very nice setup there!
Looks like you used the Renogy mounts. I wanted to be able to clean leaves and debris from under the panels easily. The StickyFeet is a 2 part mount attached by a bolt and washers.
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Old 07-10-2016, 12:53 PM   #125
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Done except for caulking

This morning before it got HOT, went up on the roof and removed the base portion of the mounts, cleaned the roof sections with 50% mixture of iso alcohol and water. It was then easy to prop the panels up on the blocks, pull the tape, slide down the base mount and screw in the hollow wall anchor screw. Kudos again to HopHed!
Panels are working fine this morning. The 3M VHB tape needs to setup for 72 hours. On Wednesday morning, I will finish it off by caulking with 3M Marine adhesive sealant 5200. That takes a week to fully cure.
For now, the cables are sitting up there with no anchor as I want to shorten some and lengthen others and will secure them.
Happy Camper Here!
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Old 07-10-2016, 02:57 PM   #126
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RichM

RichM, I see in your photos way back that it appears you ran all your sets of 8 cables to a combiner box rather than use the y combiners. Am I correct?

HopHed's photos look like he used a double strand cable for a clean look and may have a Y combiner in there somewhere, am I right Bill?

I'm currently looking at my options, I already have the Y's but want to leave the option for 1 or 2 more panels in the future.

Anyone know is it OK to leave the extra cable wound up under the panels or should they be cut to exact length needed. Also can the Y combiners be placed under the panels or is that a bad idea because of heat?

The best thing about this solar is that the batteries will be fully charged when I arrive at the CG or back home and not dealing with the BIM that only charges off the engine alternator for 1 hour without a reset.
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Old 07-10-2016, 03:32 PM   #127
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Yes, ran all 4 panels directly to combiner box to minimize losses on parallel wiring. Bought combiner box pre made with all fittings for 4 panels. Used 10 ga solar cables with pre-installed connectors to run from panel connector to box . Bought double length needed for each run , cut in middle to length. That gave one male and one female wire to run to box. Now I can disconnect a panel when needed. Once combined , power runs 6 ga to controller with 40 amp breaker and 12 volt isolation switch on way to controller.
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Old 07-10-2016, 03:37 PM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich.M View Post
Yes, ran all 4 panels directly to combiner box to minimize losses on parallel wiring. Bought combiner box pre made with all fittings for 4 panels. Used 10 ga solar cables with pre-installed connectors to run from panel connector to box . Bought double length needed for each run , cut in middle to length. That gave one male and one female wire to run to box. Now I can disconnect a panel when needed. Once combined , power runs 6 ga to controller with 40 amp breaker and 12 volt isolation switch on way to controller.
Very nice!
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Old 07-10-2016, 03:53 PM   #129
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If you decide to use or later switch to a combiner box, the web site is Imagine Instruments LLC - Sensors, Controls & Instrumentation for Industrial, Scientific & Automation Applications. Many configurations, definitely a time saver. Good luck.
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Old 07-10-2016, 11:01 PM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sagecoachdriver View Post
Today I washed the roof, laid out the position of the panels and marked them. I sanded down some of the dimples a and drilled the holes for the hollow wall anchors. I tapped them in and wiped down the area with 50% alcohol and water. I placed the mount on top and screwed the hollow wall anchors tight. I replaced all the mounting bolts and plugged in the cables and it's working fine! When it cools down this evening or tomorrow morning I will raise the panels up with those blocks, wipe down the area again with 50% alcohol and water. After it dries, I will remove the red film and lower the mount while screwing in the hollow wall anchor screw. Then I should be done for 72 hours until it cures. Then I will apply 3M 5200 Marine adhesive caulk around the mounts and that is a slow cure of 7 days. I know this is overkill, but I need peace of mind traveling in high gusty winds.
Special thanks to HopHed for the suggestion of raising the panels with wood blocks and just dropping the mounts into place.
Just got back from round trip to Seattle. Unfortunately dropped phone from pocket climbing up on roof so been out of commission since Thursday.

Looks good with mounts done which was the most critical part. When you do the 5200 do not use alcohol for the cleaning. Use acetone per instructions. I also did another light sanding around the areas the 5200 was going(top of mount and around mount). You will be very happy with the end result as the 5200 dries rock hard.

After 2500 miles and some gusty winds coming down the coast the panels are good as expected and very confident not going anywhere unless the roof comes off with it.

Also in regard to my wiring, yes, I did have a "Y" connector under the panel joining the two then the 10 gauge wiring down the fridge vent.
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