Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-12-2016, 01:58 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
benagi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Utah
Posts: 511
Sage, haven't bought solar yet. Very interesting reading on this thread though. Will be watching how your install goes. You've been putting some great post out there. Later, Ben.
__________________

__________________
1968 tent trailer
1985 Jamboree 23 ft
1997 Minnie Winnie 25 Ft
2016 Forester 3171DS (ordered March & arrived June 2015)
benagi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2016, 02:33 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
Sagecoachdriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,172
Quote:
Originally Posted by benagi View Post
Sage, haven't bought solar yet. Very interesting reading on this thread though. Will be watching how your install goes. You've been putting some great post out there. Later, Ben.
Thanks Ben
__________________

__________________
2004 Winnebago Minnie 22e(went to a nice family Oct 3, 2015)
2016 Forester 2701DS (Aug 31, 2015)
2017 Camping 0trips 0 nights
Sagecoachdriver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2016, 11:21 AM   #13
Senior Member
 
WolfWhistle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Hilliard, Florida
Posts: 2,717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sagecoachdriver View Post
After our last two trips to Yosemite, I realized I need to get some panels on the roof. My Renogy portable 100watt suitcase just isn't enough. Plus I have to pull it inside when we go hiking for security reasons.
Benagi, I read your thread back in February, did you buy yet? You are looking at the same ones I am. I have been researching and have decided on a tilt mount because of the multiple screw holes along the track for securing it to the roof and having the tilt option if needed. I also want to get an LCD display controller. I thought about 20 amp, but if I decide to add a third panel or use the Renogy 100w suitcase, it won't handle it. So 30 amp it is. Wow! 300 watts and 17.25 amps. Renogy's ViewStar 30 amp is costly, but it has a remote option, so the big controller can be tucked away in a compartment.
HopHead down in Burbank mentioned he was thinking about doing solar too. Maybe have a solar install party down at the beach.
Time to quit talking about it and just do it! It's going to be hard drilling into a perfectly good NEW non-leaking roof!
Helllo S,
I am just finishing my solar install. I went with...

Renogy 150w panels - 3 for 450W... $199 each free shipping ... about 39" square

SC-2030 PWM 30 amp controller (protected with an airconditioning cutoff panel with 30 amp slow blow fuses)

TM-2030 monitor (man is this nice!)

500amp /50mv shunt (I also went with a Magnum MS2012 Inverter charger) less than 800w inverter would only require 100A shunt (want to buy one?)

Wired from panel to controller (and on to batteries) to produce <3% voltage drop 10 ga from panel (MC4s) to 6 ga to combiner then 4 ga to controller and battery bus (#2/0 from bus to batteries)

Renogy supplied the MC4s so I can unplug at the panel, and soldered / crimped 10 ga to it to go through the roof

I drilled 3 holes... one under each panel so no wiring is exposed to the elements. A short piece of 10 ga that I screwed a clip down close to the hole and buried it all in self leveling EPDM sealant

I made my own mounts, but wouldn't do that again... spend the bucks on good tiltable SS mounts.

My 4 230AH 6 volt GC2s are cabled with #2/0 with <5' from Inverter to batteries.

At 10 AM the day I checked I was getting 18+ volts into the controller and 14.6v at over 20 amps out. The panels should be good for 25 amps.
WW
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20160329_182243.jpg
Views:	193
Size:	208.9 KB
ID:	104650   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20160409_182852.jpg
Views:	194
Size:	263.6 KB
ID:	104651  
__________________
XLR Hyperlite 29HFS
Ram 2500 6.7L CTD
Triumph Thunderbird

A Modder's work is never done!
WolfWhistle is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2016, 01:06 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
Sagecoachdriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,172
WolfWhistle-Very nice and clean install! Thanks for the photos.
A few of us have started our installs of wiring, controller and cut-offs. Still in the planning stage of panels and mounts. With our Pebbled roof (dimpled) and the thinness of the fiberglass and plywood it was suggested that hollow wall expanding anchors be used. I may use that with a layer of 3M 5200 under the mount and a large dose of Dicor to top it off.
Not sure the tilting mounts will work with larger panels with only the mounts on 2 ends instead of all four. The advantage of the smaller panels is if one gets shaded, the others will still generate power.
Any comments?
__________________
2004 Winnebago Minnie 22e(went to a nice family Oct 3, 2015)
2016 Forester 2701DS (Aug 31, 2015)
2017 Camping 0trips 0 nights
Sagecoachdriver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2016, 11:02 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
Sagecoachdriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,172
Since the fiberglass Pebbled roof (dimpled) is thin fiberglass that's bonded to thin plywood and foam, it was recommended to use hollow wall anchors like the first photo. I wonder if the second photo would be just as strong or stronger an anchor? The second one could probably be removed without as much damage as the first one would do.
Boy, I really don't like the idea of drilling into the roof. Maybe HopHed's idea of gluing the mount isn't such a bad idea. May wait to see how his comes out.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image001-2.jpg
Views:	148
Size:	42.2 KB
ID:	104731   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1588.JPG
Views:	153
Size:	77.0 KB
ID:	104732  
__________________
2004 Winnebago Minnie 22e(went to a nice family Oct 3, 2015)
2016 Forester 2701DS (Aug 31, 2015)
2017 Camping 0trips 0 nights
Sagecoachdriver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2016, 11:31 PM   #16
2007 WildCat 32QBBS
 
05CrewDually's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,258
The second one is for sheet rock/gypsum board. It has a large helix to increase the surface area into the sheetrock. It wouldn't work well into hard by comparison wood. The first anchor is your best bet.
__________________
*Current: 2005 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually 6.0 diesel 4x4*
*Retired: 1987 F350 Crew Cab Dually 6.9 turbo diesel
2007 Forest River WildCat 32QBBS
05CrewDually is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2016, 11:41 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
Sagecoachdriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,172
Quote:
Originally Posted by 05CrewDually View Post
The second one is for sheet rock/gypsum board. It has a large helix to increase the surface area into the sheetrock. It wouldn't work well into hard by comparison wood. The first anchor is your best bet.
I was thinking of it gripping the foam. the small metal tongs that the first will produce when tighten may not dig into the hard foam and just bend in close to the shaft.
__________________
2004 Winnebago Minnie 22e(went to a nice family Oct 3, 2015)
2016 Forester 2701DS (Aug 31, 2015)
2017 Camping 0trips 0 nights
Sagecoachdriver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2016, 12:28 AM   #18
Member
 
HopHed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sagecoachdriver View Post
I was thinking of it gripping the foam. the small metal tongs that the first will produce when tighten may not dig into the hard foam and just bend in close to the shaft.
Not sure if the foam on the floor is the same as the foam in the roof, but if so, I have gone through the foam under the floor and there would be zero holding on any anchor you would put in it.
I am still very hesitant to put several large diameter anchors into the roof and still leaning toward either the 3m 5200 or 4200/4000UV adhesive to glue the mounts to.
__________________
1978 Ford Rollalong
2004 Fleetwood Tioga 29V
2016 Forester 2861DS (11-13-15)
HopHed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2016, 12:45 AM   #19
2007 WildCat 32QBBS
 
05CrewDually's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,258
Do you have any experience with Well-nuts? I've used them but mostly in sheet metal. They're rubber with a brass threaded insert that as you tighten the srew or bolt in expands the rubber to make a tight seal and hold strong.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1460522692728.jpg
Views:	140
Size:	24.7 KB
ID:	104736   Click image for larger version

Name:	1460522716176.jpg
Views:	137
Size:	23.2 KB
ID:	104737  
__________________
*Current: 2005 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually 6.0 diesel 4x4*
*Retired: 1987 F350 Crew Cab Dually 6.9 turbo diesel
2007 Forest River WildCat 32QBBS
05CrewDually is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2016, 01:18 AM   #20
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ontario, California
Posts: 693
Quote:
Originally Posted by WolfWhistle View Post
Helllo S,
I am just finishing my solar install. I went with...

Renogy 150w panels - 3 for 450W... $199 each free shipping ... about 39" square

SC-2030 PWM 30 amp controller (protected with an airconditioning cutoff panel with 30 amp slow blow fuses)

TM-2030 monitor (man is this nice!)

500amp /50mv shunt (I also went with a Magnum MS2012 Inverter charger) less than 800w inverter would only require 100A shunt (want to buy one?)

Wired from panel to controller (and on to batteries) to produce <3% voltage drop 10 ga from panel (MC4s) to 6 ga to combiner then 4 ga to controller and battery bus (#2/0 from bus to batteries)

Renogy supplied the MC4s so I can unplug at the panel, and soldered / crimped 10 ga to it to go through the roof

I drilled 3 holes... one under each panel so no wiring is exposed to the elements. A short piece of 10 ga that I screwed a clip down close to the hole and buried it all in self leveling EPDM sealant

I made my own mounts, but wouldn't do that again... spend the bucks on good tiltable SS mounts.

My 4 230AH 6 volt GC2s are cabled with #2/0 with <5' from Inverter to batteries.

At 10 AM the day I checked I was getting 18+ volts into the controller and 14.6v at over 20 amps out. The panels should be good for 25 amps.
WW
First, REALLY NICE INSTALL. Second, you will probably never see 25 amps because your batteries will stay so well charged that they will never take that much but nice to know its there in case you ever need it.

do you have a picture of the controller you installed?

Thanks TOM
__________________

__________________
Tom48 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
solar

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.

Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:14 AM.