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Old 05-24-2016, 12:38 PM   #51
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HopHed, any chance I can see your setup? I am thinking of starting with 2x100watt panels and a Renogy 30amp Viewstar controller (have a 10 amp and like it) plus HopHed's stickyfeet. Looks like $600 for this setup total.
Still concerned about the mounts as we have driven 55-60mph with good head winds of 30-40mph. That's almost 100 mph on the panels. I know most just goes over the panels not under.
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Old 05-24-2016, 01:16 PM   #52
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Finally finished solar install this week. Sticky feet mounts from RV Solar Store were the way to go with the dimpled roof. Did a light sanding to the roof at point of contact of the mounts to give a more even surface for the VHB tape on the mounts to adhere. Once attached and cured for 3 days felt confident it would hold, but still covered edges with 3M 5200 adhesive sealant to be sure. After the 7 day cure time for the 5200 I am sure the panels will not come loose.
The 2 165W panels were putting out almost 18 amps according the Trimetric 2030 controller and battery monitor on a day with light cloud cover. Will be testing out next weekend to see how everything works.

Thanks RichM for the info on the mounts and adhesive.
Nice solar mounts. Any thought given to installing installing a 'fairing" on the front of the panel to reduce the lift load when driving at highway speeds?
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Old 05-24-2016, 01:20 PM   #53
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Yes, that has been suggested and still thinking about it. Not sure needed but if I come across something that might work well with little expense will probably do it.
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Old 05-24-2016, 02:25 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by Sagecoachdriver View Post
HopHed, any chance I can see your setup? I am thinking of starting with 2x100watt panels and a Renogy 30amp Viewstar controller (have a 10 amp and like it) plus HopHed's stickyfeet. Looks like $600 for this setup total.
Still concerned about the mounts as we have driven 55-60mph with good head winds of 30-40mph. That's almost 100 mph on the panels. I know most just goes over the panels not under.
Let me know what works for you to come by. Will be around.
Went to Ventura for the weekend and no issues with the mounts so far. I feel very confident they will hold.
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Old 05-24-2016, 02:30 PM   #55
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Yes, that has been suggested and still thinking about it. Not sure needed but if I come across something that might work well with little expense will probably do it.
Just some 1/2" foam water pipe insulator pushed in would work or would that put upward pressure on the panel and the sticky feet?
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Old 05-24-2016, 02:46 PM   #56
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Just some 1/2" foam water pipe insulator pushed in would work or would that put upward pressure on the panel and the sticky feet?
Would not put enough upward pressure to make any difference. Not sure how it would stay there though. Wind may blow it out.
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Old 05-24-2016, 05:07 PM   #57
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Nice solar mounts. Any thought given to installing installing a 'fairing" on the front of the panel to reduce the lift load when driving at highway speeds?

If by faring you mean something to block the air from going under the panel then I'd suggest not. By decreasing the wind speed under the panel it will cause lift by the fast moving air above.
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Old 05-24-2016, 05:17 PM   #58
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Good point. Thanks for the advise.
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Old 05-26-2016, 08:35 AM   #59
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Hope this isn't off the subject or a high-jack, but I wonder...
Should the truck / tow vehicle's 12 vdc power to the trailer (via the 7 pin) be disconnected?

When driving down the road, I decided to run my fridge on the inverter and it works well. But, I wonder if I am wasting power either charging to trying to charge the TV batteries with my solar charger. It seems to me that the solar controller would see the TV batteries and be affected by them??

What do you guys think?

Thanks, WW
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Old 05-26-2016, 11:57 AM   #60
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Yes, that has been suggested and still thinking about it. Not sure needed but if I come across something that might work well with little expense will probably do it.
For all of you who want to force the flow over the top of the panel, REMEMBER that is how an airplane wing works to create lift. Maybe an obstruction to keep the branches from hooking under the panels or maybe a wedge shaped leading edge for the panels to reduce wind resistance but probably ought to think twice about the aerodynamic effect of directing the flow over the top only. Think bernoulli's principle before you do something that defeats your intention and SUCKS the panels off the roof.
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