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Old 04-11-2016, 12:51 AM   #1
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Ready for Solar, again!

After our last two trips to Yosemite, I realized I need to get some panels on the roof. My Renogy portable 100watt suitcase just isn't enough. Plus I have to pull it inside when we go hiking for security reasons.
Benagi, I read your thread back in February, did you buy yet? You are looking at the same ones I am. I have been researching and have decided on a tilt mount because of the multiple screw holes along the track for securing it to the roof and having the tilt option if needed. I also want to get an LCD display controller. I thought about 20 amp, but if I decide to add a third panel or use the Renogy 100w suitcase, it won't handle it. So 30 amp it is. Wow! 300 watts and 17.25 amps. Renogy's ViewStar 30 amp is costly, but it has a remote option, so the big controller can be tucked away in a compartment.
HopHead down in Burbank mentioned he was thinking about doing solar too. Maybe have a solar install party down at the beach.
Time to quit talking about it and just do it! It's going to be hard drilling into a perfectly good NEW non-leaking roof!
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Old 04-11-2016, 03:09 AM   #2
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I'm getting ready to do the same. I need 400 W on my roof because I boondock at least a week at a time.
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Old 04-11-2016, 07:47 AM   #3
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Sticky feet mounts work well without drilling into fiberglass roofs. I have my Renology Eclipse panels mounted on our Solera with sticky feet, 4 per panel. After they set for 24 hrs then covered feet with loctite marine adhesive with runoff to roof as if using dicor. Set another 24 hrs. Those mounts are solid and not coming off.
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Old 04-11-2016, 07:54 AM   #4
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This couple that I follow have some good info on solar and what they did/used. About Us – Wheeling It
I follow full time rvers that have blogs or twitter.
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Old 04-11-2016, 09:43 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sagecoachdriver View Post
After our last two trips to Yosemite, I realized I need to get some panels on the roof. My Renogy portable 100watt suitcase just isn't enough. Plus I have to pull it inside when we go hiking for security reasons.
Benagi, I read your thread back in February, did you buy yet? You are looking at the same ones I am. I have been researching and have decided on a tilt mount because of the multiple screw holes along the track for securing it to the roof and having the tilt option if needed. I also want to get an LCD display controller. I thought about 20 amp, but if I decide to add a third panel or use the Renogy 100w suitcase, it won't handle it. So 30 amp it is. Wow! 300 watts and 17.25 amps. Renogy's ViewStar 30 amp is costly, but it has a remote option, so the big controller can be tucked away in a compartment.
HopHead down in Burbank mentioned he was thinking about doing solar too. Maybe have a solar install party down at the beach.
Time to quit talking about it and just do it! It's going to be hard drilling into a perfectly good NEW non-leaking roof!
Hope you had a good trip to Yosemite. The picture you posted of the bike ride looks like you had good weather.

Here is where I am at and where I am going with solar:

Solar wires run from roof down fridge vent and under fridge to access panel just under fridge. Have a Trimetric controller(up to 30 amps) that I have mounted to a 12" x 10" piece of wood with 2 30 amp circuit breakers to and from the controller. This will be mounted under the fridge behind the access panel this week along with running my wires from the batteries to the controller.

I am looking at 2 165 watt or 2 160 watt panels I found on ebay. I will probably make my own mounts out of angled aluminum, that way I can get sufficient mounting surface as I will not be using screws. Based on what I have seen I am not comfortable with screws as it will only be going into 1/8" of fiberglass with only 1/8" of luan plywood backing with foam underneath. 1/4" to screw into makes me nervous if it will hold or not.

I am looking at 3M 5200 marine sealant which I have read is good for the non slip fiberglass roofs and will be a permanent mount. However I have seen some products that claim to be able to remove the 5200 sealant if needed.

Any feedback or comment would be appreciated.
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Old 04-11-2016, 10:58 AM   #6
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HopHed, do you have the dimpled roof like mine? In re-reading my old posts on the older threads, things like Sticky Feet and the the ABS glue mounts were not recommended for my roof because of the dimples. How large a surface area will you for glueing?
Just looked around at the online aluminum angle iron. What size would you get?
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Old 04-11-2016, 11:26 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sagecoachdriver View Post
HopHed, do you have the dimpled roof like mine? In re-reading my old posts on the older threads, things like Sticky Feet and the the ABS glue mounts were not recommended for my roof because of the dimples. How large a surface area will you for glueing?
Just looked around at the online aluminum angle iron. What size would you get?
I do have the same dimpled roof. That's why no VHB tape. I did not want to find out it did not work by having a panel blow off the roof on the freeway. The 5200 sealant will take care of the irregular surface and after reading about it, seems like the way to go without drilling.

I will probably go with 1 1/2" for the base and use 8, 3-4" long brackets. I can probably get away with 1" for the piece that will mount to the panel. If I put a slot on the roof mount piece I might get a little slant to it for rain run off. Might go to 2" but want to get the panels first the figure things out. Here's what I found on aluminum. https://www.onlinemetals.com/basket.cfm Can also get at HD or Lowes.
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Old 04-11-2016, 11:53 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by HopHed View Post
I do have the same dimpled roof. That's why no VHB tape. I did not want to find out it did not work by having a panel blow off the roof on the freeway. The 5200 sealant will take care of the irregular surface and after reading about it, seems like the way to go without drilling.

I will probably go with 1 1/2" for the base and use 8, 3-4" long brackets. I can probably get away with 1" for the piece that will mount to the panel. If I put a slot on the roof mount piece I might get a little slant to it for rain run off. Might go to 2" but want to get the panels first the figure things out. Here's what I found on aluminum. https://www.onlinemetals.com/basket.cfm Can also get at HD or Lowes.
I was thinking there needs to be a 1" gap for heat dissipation under the panel. Maybe a 2"x2". I would want to put an air deflector in front of the panel to prevent a tree branch from catching under the panel and ripping it off. Had a few issues with my Winnebago Minnie. Of course, the King On the Air bat wing antenna will be the first to go. For that reason, I may want to mount them on the driver's side.
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Old 04-11-2016, 02:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sagecoachdriver View Post
After our last two trips to Yosemite, I realized I need to get some panels on the roof. My Renogy portable 100watt suitcase just isn't enough. Plus I have to pull it inside when we go hiking for security reasons.
Benagi, I read your thread back in February, did you buy yet? You are looking at the same ones I am. I have been researching and have decided on a tilt mount because of the multiple screw holes along the track for securing it to the roof and having the tilt option if needed. I also want to get an LCD display controller. I thought about 20 amp, but if I decide to add a third panel or use the Renogy 100w suitcase, it won't handle it. So 30 amp it is. Wow! 300 watts and 17.25 amps. Renogy's ViewStar 30 amp is costly, but it has a remote option, so the big controller can be tucked away in a compartment.
HopHead down in Burbank mentioned he was thinking about doing solar too. Maybe have a solar install party down at the beach.
Time to quit talking about it and just do it! It's going to be hard drilling into a perfectly good NEW non-leaking roof!
I have been fairly vocal against high priced stuff, but our new, on order TH comes with a 200 go power brand system. Although I can't find anything about their panels to justify the cost, their 30 amp PWM controller is either the best I have seen, or just the best documentation to let you see what it can do. If I was doing roof mount from scratch now, I would buy panels brackets and connectors from WindyNation.com where I bought before or for slightly more money, from Renogy.com then shop online for the GoPower 30 amp PWM. Read the Manuel which you can see online. Full 4 phase charging for wet lead acid and appropriate 3 phase for AGM batts. Without dumping big bucks that looks like the best of all worlds in solar.
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Old 04-11-2016, 02:31 PM   #10
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I just purchased upper end 3wire German panels (through my business) - not the 2 wire Chineese .... Very Pricey, but .... These are as effiecient as it gets and with 384 watts of solar, the output is apx 17.6 amps at noon on a sunny day with a 90 degree sun impact angle. Not many are even close. Verify the specs the panel says they will do are actuall vs ____ before buying.


I could have added a 9th panel, on the combined digital regulator & display, but I like even numbers. It is going to be free standing. I have not yet decided if I can mount it on the side or roof in any form I am happy or comfortable with.


Once I get my TT and have everyting nstalled, I'll post up.
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Old 04-12-2016, 12:58 AM   #11
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Sage, haven't bought solar yet. Very interesting reading on this thread though. Will be watching how your install goes. You've been putting some great post out there. Later, Ben.
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Old 04-12-2016, 01:33 AM   #12
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Sage, haven't bought solar yet. Very interesting reading on this thread though. Will be watching how your install goes. You've been putting some great post out there. Later, Ben.
Thanks Ben
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:21 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sagecoachdriver View Post
After our last two trips to Yosemite, I realized I need to get some panels on the roof. My Renogy portable 100watt suitcase just isn't enough. Plus I have to pull it inside when we go hiking for security reasons.
Benagi, I read your thread back in February, did you buy yet? You are looking at the same ones I am. I have been researching and have decided on a tilt mount because of the multiple screw holes along the track for securing it to the roof and having the tilt option if needed. I also want to get an LCD display controller. I thought about 20 amp, but if I decide to add a third panel or use the Renogy 100w suitcase, it won't handle it. So 30 amp it is. Wow! 300 watts and 17.25 amps. Renogy's ViewStar 30 amp is costly, but it has a remote option, so the big controller can be tucked away in a compartment.
HopHead down in Burbank mentioned he was thinking about doing solar too. Maybe have a solar install party down at the beach.
Time to quit talking about it and just do it! It's going to be hard drilling into a perfectly good NEW non-leaking roof!
Helllo S,
I am just finishing my solar install. I went with...

Renogy 150w panels - 3 for 450W... $199 each free shipping ... about 39" square

SC-2030 PWM 30 amp controller (protected with an airconditioning cutoff panel with 30 amp slow blow fuses)

TM-2030 monitor (man is this nice!)

500amp /50mv shunt (I also went with a Magnum MS2012 Inverter charger) less than 800w inverter would only require 100A shunt (want to buy one?)

Wired from panel to controller (and on to batteries) to produce <3% voltage drop 10 ga from panel (MC4s) to 6 ga to combiner then 4 ga to controller and battery bus (#2/0 from bus to batteries)

Renogy supplied the MC4s so I can unplug at the panel, and soldered / crimped 10 ga to it to go through the roof

I drilled 3 holes... one under each panel so no wiring is exposed to the elements. A short piece of 10 ga that I screwed a clip down close to the hole and buried it all in self leveling EPDM sealant

I made my own mounts, but wouldn't do that again... spend the bucks on good tiltable SS mounts.

My 4 230AH 6 volt GC2s are cabled with #2/0 with <5' from Inverter to batteries.

At 10 AM the day I checked I was getting 18+ volts into the controller and 14.6v at over 20 amps out. The panels should be good for 25 amps.
WW
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Old 04-12-2016, 12:06 PM   #14
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WolfWhistle-Very nice and clean install! Thanks for the photos.
A few of us have started our installs of wiring, controller and cut-offs. Still in the planning stage of panels and mounts. With our Pebbled roof (dimpled) and the thinness of the fiberglass and plywood it was suggested that hollow wall expanding anchors be used. I may use that with a layer of 3M 5200 under the mount and a large dose of Dicor to top it off.
Not sure the tilting mounts will work with larger panels with only the mounts on 2 ends instead of all four. The advantage of the smaller panels is if one gets shaded, the others will still generate power.
Any comments?
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:02 PM   #15
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Since the fiberglass Pebbled roof (dimpled) is thin fiberglass that's bonded to thin plywood and foam, it was recommended to use hollow wall anchors like the first photo. I wonder if the second photo would be just as strong or stronger an anchor? The second one could probably be removed without as much damage as the first one would do.
Boy, I really don't like the idea of drilling into the roof. Maybe HopHed's idea of gluing the mount isn't such a bad idea. May wait to see how his comes out.
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:31 PM   #16
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The second one is for sheet rock/gypsum board. It has a large helix to increase the surface area into the sheetrock. It wouldn't work well into hard by comparison wood. The first anchor is your best bet.
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:41 PM   #17
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The second one is for sheet rock/gypsum board. It has a large helix to increase the surface area into the sheetrock. It wouldn't work well into hard by comparison wood. The first anchor is your best bet.
I was thinking of it gripping the foam. the small metal tongs that the first will produce when tighten may not dig into the hard foam and just bend in close to the shaft.
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Old 04-12-2016, 11:28 PM   #18
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I was thinking of it gripping the foam. the small metal tongs that the first will produce when tighten may not dig into the hard foam and just bend in close to the shaft.
Not sure if the foam on the floor is the same as the foam in the roof, but if so, I have gone through the foam under the floor and there would be zero holding on any anchor you would put in it.
I am still very hesitant to put several large diameter anchors into the roof and still leaning toward either the 3m 5200 or 4200/4000UV adhesive to glue the mounts to.
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Old 04-12-2016, 11:45 PM   #19
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Do you have any experience with Well-nuts? I've used them but mostly in sheet metal. They're rubber with a brass threaded insert that as you tighten the srew or bolt in expands the rubber to make a tight seal and hold strong.
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Old 04-13-2016, 12:18 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WolfWhistle View Post
Helllo S,
I am just finishing my solar install. I went with...

Renogy 150w panels - 3 for 450W... $199 each free shipping ... about 39" square

SC-2030 PWM 30 amp controller (protected with an airconditioning cutoff panel with 30 amp slow blow fuses)

TM-2030 monitor (man is this nice!)

500amp /50mv shunt (I also went with a Magnum MS2012 Inverter charger) less than 800w inverter would only require 100A shunt (want to buy one?)

Wired from panel to controller (and on to batteries) to produce <3% voltage drop 10 ga from panel (MC4s) to 6 ga to combiner then 4 ga to controller and battery bus (#2/0 from bus to batteries)

Renogy supplied the MC4s so I can unplug at the panel, and soldered / crimped 10 ga to it to go through the roof

I drilled 3 holes... one under each panel so no wiring is exposed to the elements. A short piece of 10 ga that I screwed a clip down close to the hole and buried it all in self leveling EPDM sealant

I made my own mounts, but wouldn't do that again... spend the bucks on good tiltable SS mounts.

My 4 230AH 6 volt GC2s are cabled with #2/0 with <5' from Inverter to batteries.

At 10 AM the day I checked I was getting 18+ volts into the controller and 14.6v at over 20 amps out. The panels should be good for 25 amps.
WW
First, REALLY NICE INSTALL. Second, you will probably never see 25 amps because your batteries will stay so well charged that they will never take that much but nice to know its there in case you ever need it.

do you have a picture of the controller you installed?

Thanks TOM
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