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Old 09-19-2016, 02:30 PM   #181
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That is exactly what we did. We bought new in 2013 and in the summer of 2015 major front cap/roof leak. Cost me $6500 to repair it. Forest River blamed me for it and now won't return emails. I said screw them. I could never trust the POS ever again so we sold it. FR took the R out of RV for me. Cost me $30000 for 3 summers if use. I thought I did my homework but I guess I still failed. Live and learn.
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Old 09-19-2016, 03:56 PM   #182
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You kind of missed my point. I did lots of research before I bought, and didn't see this as a problem. Knowing now what I know I would not buy another Forestriver product. Unfortunately I did and now I have to live with it. So why spend the next 2-3 years fighting a losing battle against a manufacture that doesn't care and getting upset when I can just use the damn thing educate some other people and move on. What's worse then spending $80,000 on a poorly designed motorhome is to spend $80,000 on a poorly designed motorhome and hate it because it's a nightmare of litigation, time, phone calls and heartache hating the damn thing every time you see it. As I said, stick your head in the sand use the damn thing have fun with the family and send it down the road. O and never buy anything from the manufacture again.
your correct on time it takes to go through the process,but if everyone on this forum filed a complaint with bbb (only takes an email and proof of getting no where with them)ill bet you will all get some sort of action because i have dealt with bbb and got satisfaction . these people don't want bbb coming after them because if you get a smart consumer they look things up on bbb,and from what i see there are quite a few upset buyers,and also yelp is a strong tool .don't let the big guys get away with this because it will only get worse
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Old 09-19-2016, 09:42 PM   #183
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You kind of missed my point. I did lots of research before I bought, and didn't see this as a problem. Knowing now what I know I would not buy another Forestriver product. Unfortunately I did and now I have to live with it. So why spend the next 2-3 years fighting a losing battle against a manufacture that doesn't care and getting upset when I can just use the damn thing educate some other people and move on. What's worse then spending $80,000 on a poorly designed motorhome is to spend $80,000 on a poorly designed motorhome and hate it because it's a nightmare of litigation, time, phone calls and heartache hating the damn thing every time you see it. As I said, stick your head in the sand use the damn thing have fun with the family and send it down the road. O and never buy anything from the manufacture again.
I agree with what you are saying....and do feel it is good advice.
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Old 09-21-2016, 08:53 AM   #184
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I wish I would have kept my coachmen with a rubber roof, a way better design!!
Then why not use a bedliner coating and seam the entire area including 6 inches over the front cap? It will look redneck as all get out but it certainly won't leak. A commercial shop could probably get the job done in a few hours. I just don't know how well it would adhere to fiberglass. I know you can't acid etch like they do with paint. That would give you a new sunroof!

(Don't laugh, I've thought about it just so I wouldn't need to do constant roof inspections)
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Old 09-21-2016, 10:18 AM   #185
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Not a very good idea when it comes to reselling in a few years! The more stock looking you can keep it the better. I'm not even sold on the EB tape, just one more thing I have to explain to the prospective buy about Forestrivers bad product.
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Old 09-21-2016, 11:20 AM   #186
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just tell them that the tape is better then the calk,because it is
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Old 09-23-2016, 07:19 AM   #187
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Bedliner is tintable

But I agree if you ever wanted to resell it would be a tough sell especially since there is a good chance it would lift later on down the road.
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Old 09-23-2016, 09:05 AM   #188
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Bedliner is tintable

But I agree if you ever wanted to resell it would be a tough sell especially since there is a good chance it would lift later on down the road.
once you put the tape down thats made for rubber rv roofs it will not come up,made the mistake of laying a small pice on the roof when i was doing my seams and it would not come up,i did my seams about 8 years ago and the tape is still holding,its expensive but better then getting on roof every 2 years to re calk
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Old 10-08-2016, 02:21 PM   #189
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WHAT TO USE TO SEAL YOUR UNIT.

The proper sealer is necessary for a good seal that last. Almost all doors, windows, trim, hatches and accessory covers on RV's are sealed with a polyurethane sealer that really sticks, firms up well and remains flexible.

Roofs are sealed around vents, hatches, AC units and edge seams with a product called Lap Seal. This is thicker, very sticky and usually is used to overlap the spot being sealed by 1.5 Inches. It comes in Self Leveling and Non Sag formulas in a caulking tube.

The best Polyurethane sealer I've found is LOCTITE TUB & TILE SEAL & BOND, aka POLYSEAMSEAL. It's easy to lay a good looking bead and to smooth with a wet finger where necessary.
I found it at home centers in both White and Almond. This also works good on the interior around sinks, showers and counters.

For the Lap Seal roof product, I found it at MOBILE HOME DEPOT [www.mobilehomedepot.net]. I purchased Non Sag formula and it works great. No leaks with this stuff.
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Old 10-10-2016, 10:40 AM   #190
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Then why not use a bedliner coating and seam the entire area including 6 inches over the front cap? It will look redneck as all get out but it certainly won't leak. A commercial shop could probably get the job done in a few hours. I just don't know how well it would adhere to fiberglass. I know you can't acid etch like they do with paint. That would give you a new sunroof!

(Don't laugh, I've thought about it just so I wouldn't need to do constant roof inspections)
My neighbor Rhino-lined his entire roof, ft and rear caps on a 38 foot pusher.
Still looks good several years later.
Cost him about $3500.
Black since that matches his rig.
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