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Old 05-21-2016, 11:06 AM   #31
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So after reading this I checked my new 3011DS yesterday and can't see any obvious issues. My thoughts are to monitor the front cap area for any potential issues before applying any Eternabond tape as a precaution. If a problem becomes apparent before my warranty is up, I want to make sure that I can visually see it so that I can get it addressed sooner than later.
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Old 05-21-2016, 03:08 PM   #32
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Checked mine every other month because I'm particular. Almost 2 yrs old and no problem. May do the eternabond tape as a precaution.

Absolutely love my Forester, we can't wait for next trip this Wednesday.


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Old 05-21-2016, 03:12 PM   #33
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Everyone should watch this area if you have a fiberglass front cap. Not only the top of the front cap but also the top of the rear cap/roofline. These are areas that can cause conciderable damage because the water piles up on the roof edges before running over. So any puddling on the roof will be resting against the caulk joints of the front and rear caps. And if the joint is not sealing the water will run into the coach before it runs over the side edge.
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Old 05-21-2016, 04:56 PM   #34
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some pic's
took the pic's after just putting my knife under the caulk at the corner and pulling up and back. the whole seam peeled off in 3 pieces. You can see the vertical gap between the cap and roof.
The yellow stripe above the seam is the white rubber insert on the screw channel.
1st pic is the corner that was leaking, I removed as much dirt as possible with compressed air.. You can see at the far right the bulge where the cap is pulled down to the roof and screwed th the side wall . That is a real big and deep void that I filled with non leveling dicore and covered with self leveling dicore. Both corners.
2nd pic shows the depth of and height of the void.
3rd pic is about the middle of the RV.
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Old 05-21-2016, 06:32 PM   #35
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We climbed on the roof and checked our 2016 3171 today and it looks okay. We will probably Eternabond the seam out of an abundance of caution, though. I bought the 4-inch tape and some Dicor from Amazon.
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Old 05-21-2016, 07:04 PM   #36
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This may be a stupid question, but should everybody with a fiberglass nose use the eternabond and dicor where the cap meets the roof just as a preventive measure?
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Old 05-21-2016, 07:30 PM   #37
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Yes you should - buy eternabond and dicor off amazon - everything including the primer should cost about $200. I would not say that that makes the roof impenetrable but it is way better than nothing. Really how else would you notice that there was a leak ? By the time you look at the roof and see a crack what are the odds that no water has got in that crack ? I check my roof all the time and I didn't even see a crack the first thing I saw was little brown stains in the corner of my headliner of the front cabover. I will actually give Forest River props in this area for their construction because there was only a minimal amount of damage - This is not a problem isolated to Forest River pretty much every motorhome and trailer leaks at some point lol. It is just the nature of the beast we have to take as many precautions as we can regardless of the age to prepare for what is pretty much inevitable. Out of curiosity though has anyone here had a spray on bedliner or polyurea coating done to their roof ? Like rv flex armor etc ?
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Old 05-21-2016, 08:45 PM   #38
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For anyone who is curious - this is what it looks like inside the front bunk roof (note the styrofoam is what makes the roof crown - the aluminum supports are flat - you can't see in the pics but the screws from the front cap to the fiberglass roof are pulled out of the luan)

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These were the brown stains I saw -

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Old 05-23-2016, 11:46 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skylilymd View Post
For anyone who is curious - this is what it looks like inside the front bunk roof (note the styrofoam is what makes the roof crown - the aluminum supports are flat - you can't see in the pics but the screws from the front cap to the fiberglass roof are pulled out of the luan)
So you pulled your ceiling panel out? That had to hurt to do that

I've made a number of postings on my leak issues so I'm not stranger to the roof/ceiling leaks (and other leaks).

My last efforts to get help from Forest River ended with the familiar get it fixed and send us the bill and we will decide our responsibility.

Not bashing FR, Joshua or Brian but all the might of strength I can muster I can't bite my tongue to prevent me from saying that the roof design is bad engineering - particularly at the front fiberglass cap to the coach roof. This transition needs a far better system.
I'm not a degreed engineer however the simple physics - we know that a transition needs more than just the lip of material mechanically fastened (screwed) and a bead of sealant for weatherproofing.
Ideally the roof should be a monolithic system but this is not possible in the current assembly method of these RV's. The next best system would be a substrate flashing with a support bridge - another run of a ceiling joist at the overlap point of the fiberglass cap and the fiberglass roof. These two materials are mechanically joined into the new joist. In this way it secures the material to minimize separation caused by stress, vibration and thermal changes.

It's discouraging to have these leaks - especially in coaches so new. The front caps have changed a couple times since my model year but the transition piece remains the same. Reviewing the forum - this is not a new problem. I'm surprised that FR hasn't done much to improve this one area.

I have the similar soft spots but it is mostly the adhesive that has separated from the fiberglass roof and the luan substrate. I thought maybe to fix it from above, pulling the fiberglass and cutting back the wood or just re-gluing if that is all it needs. I hate to think what you will have to do to restore the interior after removing the your panels.
How did you remove the panels - old fashion pulling? What are your plans from this point?
I'm curious, I'm trying to decide my next step which includes quiting RVing. I've never worked so much on something so new and expensive. It has NOT been a recreational vehicle.
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Old 05-24-2016, 12:27 AM   #40
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Honestly I wouldn't have done anything except seal the roof but I smelled musty/mold smell. I sliced the headliner at the corners with a knife (with intentions of reusing it) seeing as it is attached to the roof and then installed on the rv as best I can figure... but it is near impossible to get it off without some foam pieces tearing off. Then I just was going to explore and go from there - I found good bit of mold so I cut the luan like drywall, about 4 slices with a sharp blade and took out a section about 2 feet by 2 feet. I found the perimeter of the mold area and stopped there, then cut out the styrofoam up to the top luan to inspect. It is all glued in so not so easy to do but I got to the top and saw that there was little damage to top luan layer. The leak must be real slow so mostly mold not water damage. I used my automotive scope to peek around things and didn't see much else in the cap or behind the wall. I used a thin strip of steel and put it below the screws from the cap and re screwed them in from the top to act as a surface to hold that corner together. Used construction adhesive to put it all back together and just cut a piece of 1/8 panel board to replace the moldy luan. Now I did have to buy a new headliner piece (150$) because even though it looks fine it stinks of mold so that is the last thing I have to finish. I would not want to do that again - I will have to take a pic of my roof that I have attempted to make water proof lol
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