Roof leak left rear corner 2016 3011DS

[Edrps]

I have had a leak in the left rear corner of my roof for some time. I have taken it to a local repair shop with a good reputation to be repaired. He said he found the leak and repaired it. I checked it today and it is still leaking. Unfortunately now I'm going to have to replace the foam ceiling corner molding, the vinyl that covers it and the cedar veneer which is stained in the closet. However it does me no good to repair the damage until the leak is fixed. The leak looks like it starts about 1 foot before reaching the rear wall corner and runs along the wall in that 1 foot area. There is never any standing water. It looks like it is being absorbed by the wall and the foam. My concern for the future is mold, rot and delamination should the leak continue. I think I have caught it early enough so that doesn't happen. [emoji120]

I'm going to try to get it back in to the repair shop this coming week. Any suggestions from anyone out there on how I might locate the leak myself. I have been on the roof several times and there are no obvious areas where the leak could be coming from. Will Forest River have the vinyl and the foam molding piece to replace it with? I guess I'll have to call them Monday. Any suggestions on what dept or who to call.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as more rain is coming and we had planned a trip for next week.

[pismolocal]

My very first class C RV back in the 90s developed a leak in the rear closet. Water dripped from the corner and would soak the wall and anything on the floor when it rained. I patched everything on the roof where I thought the leak could come from. Never could get it to stop. Finally one day I had to replace a light cover above the front bed area that is over the cab. I found a nice crack just above the light so I patched it up. Never had a problem again. The water was coming in the front and some how going all the way to the rear closet where it soaked in and then dripped down. My point is that the water can be coming from just about anywhere. Make sure you go over your RV with a fine tooth comb and look for any cracks, broken top lights or broken seams or chalking that had cracked. If non can be found, maybe a bucket of water with some food coloring spread out on the roof may reveal the sorce. Not sure how good of an idea that would be but finding a leak is a challenge. You may be able to follow the color back to a general area. Good luck.

[Edrps]

Thank you. Sure is frustrating. Had leaks on other RVs which I was able to fix in the past. This one is a mystery. That's why I took it to a repair shop with no luck. Doesn't help that Irma just came through here in Georgia. What a mess! I'll take your advice and look further away from the area that is wet.

[TheWolfPaq82]

Seems they can be just like a house leak, you see the spot, but the leak is 15 ft away.

[Sagecoachdriver]

Sorry to hear about your leak. Check out Benagi's post on his issues with a rear cap leak. http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ds-129657.html

[tonys]

The wolfpack 82 is spot on. You might inspect the whole roof for damage or cracks.

[Edrps]

Originally Posted by Sagecoachdriver

Sorry to hear about your leak. Check out Benagi's post on his issues with a rear cap leak. http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ds-129657.html

Read the Benagi posts. My leak seems to be coming from the left side where the side cap meets the gutter. Yesterday I found a small area along the ridge which the factory missed sealing. Imagine that.

I see you have made a wooden molding to replace the cardboard and vinyl garbage Forest River installs. Is there any chance you could make a couple which I could purchase from you. I would need one to go above the window and in the closet. If not could you send more photos so I could take a crack at making one.

[salwolfe]

Ed, I didn't see what rig you have so don't know if this will even help. On my 270S I thought I might have a leak in the roof when I had water in left rear side outside of the closet, on the carpet. Turns out it was a window leaking and FR took it out, resealed everything, straightened it up, put it back in and haven't had a leak since.

[Edrps]

Thank you for the reply. Unfortunately mine is coming from the roof. The only window in back is much lower than the spot that is getting wet. Taking it back to SOUTHLAND RV SERVICE where it was originally supposed to be fixed a couple of months ago.

[Sagecoachdriver]

Edrps, the leak most likely is at a seam or thru the rear clearance lights or rearview camera. Since you are most likely out of warranty, you might consider doing what Benagi has done and eternabond the seams around the perimeter. I will be applying eternabond within the next two months before the rainy season here in So Cal.
Since this is your Topic and you asked, I will posted more info on the fascia replacement. I wouldn't want to hijack your topic.
I know you saw the photos from the other topic, but I posted them again for others to see.
As for the slide out fascia, I have so many projects to do I would probably never get around to making the fascia. It isn't difficult to make if you have the time and tools. So here's more info.
I first removed the damaged fascia and screwed in plywood slide out stop as it was flexing.
Bought 3/4" maple long and wide enough for the job. Took all the measurements and ran the maple thru my thickness planer and cut to length. Cut a datto for the trim insert and a rabbet on another piece to be glued and nailed on for the raised portion. I then made the end cap by tracing it on a piece of maple and cut it on my jig saw. Glued a thin 1/4" piece of maple to cover the end. Used the jig saw again to cut the end piece down close to the configuration and used my belt sander to finish it off. Mixed up a small batch of closely matching Minwax stain and applied it. Sealed with Wipe-on varathane. Then mounted it to the plywood with course drywall screws.
Few notes, maple doesn't want to take stain evenly, use a prestain conditioner.
Maple tends to want to warp and twist so I found that it's best to make it quickly before it does.

[Edrps]

Thank you sir. Photos will be quite helpful. I'm going to do the eternabond. I also will leave the area open in the closet where I took out that damned cardboard molding which was covered in that cellophane like vinyl. Unbelievable that garbage is used by Forest River. Just in case sealing those areas doesnt work. The beat goes on however with the RV repair shop I WAS going to take it back to. I decided to call them before I headed over to find out how they were going to find the leak. They told me they were going to make it leak. I asked if they were going to do the air pressure test and put soapy water on the suspect area on the roof to look for bubbles. They said no they did not have that capability. They would make it leak by putting water on the area from the outside in. Oh boy, more water, more damage on the inside🙄😠. I'm going to get on the phone and see if someone has that pressure testing equipment in my area. Saw a YouTube video from Independence RV in Florida that has this system. May have to make a trip if I can't find anybody around me with a SealTech Machine

[Edrps]

Well every body I found the leak myself. After spending over $400 with these &?#%€head dealers. It was a hole under the molding strip just above the gutter. When they drilled the holes to attach the sidewall they missed with one hole and didn't fill it. They covered it with molding and when the rain goes over the side into the gutter it seeps into the hole. I siliconed it and rebuilt the closet. Well on to my next project. Repairing a leak in the black tank 90' fitting just before the blade valve. Forest River created a bad joint by dumping too much glue into it. What a way to run a railroad. I think after I'm done fixing everything FR screwed up, I'm going to write a book and a long post on many forums.