I thought I did a topic back before I bought my Forester, but must have deleted it or maybe I'm having a senior moment. Anyway, now that I've had the MH for a few months and made a few trips, I'd like to ask if any Forester or Sunseeker owners have added roof top solar panels. The roofing material on mine is kind of ribbed/dimpled and not a smooth surface. So I wonder about using 3M adhesive tape or such,, or is drilling and screwing a better method. It has been suggested to route the cable down the fridge vent, but mine is opposite where the house batteries are. That probably means routing cable underneath to the step compartment.
I currently have a Renogy 100 watt solar suitcase which does a fine job when I use it. But I am always worried it will grow legs so I only use it when I'm around. I want to have the batteries charging all the time when sunlight is available.
I would like to mount 200 watts of panels and use a 20 or 30 amp controller.
I used extra strength double sided tape (read through the thread if you have time), works great. There is a small gap on the outside edge of both panels due to my roof is not flat. I will be putting weather stripping in those gaps.
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2018 Ram 3500 SRW diesel 4x4 long bed Laramie
2020 Jayco Eagle HT 274CKDS
I thought I did a topic back before I bought my Forester, but must have deleted it or maybe I'm having a senior moment. Anyway, now that I've had the MH for a few months and made a few trips, I'd like to ask if any Forester or Sunseeker owners have added roof top solar panels. The roofing material on mine is kind of ribbed/dimpled and not a smooth surface. So I wonder about using 3M adhesive tape or such,, or is drilling and screwing a better method. It has been suggested to route the cable down the fridge vent, but mine is opposite where the house batteries are. That probably means routing cable underneath to the step compartment.
I currently have a Renogy 100 watt solar suitcase which does a fine job when I use it. But I am always worried it will grow legs so I only use it when I'm around. I want to have the batteries charging all the time when sunlight is available.
I would like to mount 200 watts of panels and use a 20 or 30 amp controller.
Before I bought my Sunseeker, I was planning to use 3M tape to attach solar panels to the roof of the RV I would eventually buy. I was a bit disappointed that the SS roof is textured, and therefore not a good candidate for tape. I have since researched the subject and found many instances of people using 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive Sealant to attach the solar panel standoff brackets to the roof. 5200 is a serious adhesive, used for below waterline applications. It is extremely tenacious and is permanent. From what I've read, aerodynamics will send most of the wind's force above the roof, leaving the panels mostly unaffected so you shouldn't need to use screws. Of course some screws in the front set of brackets could give some peace of mind.
"The whole problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so certain of themselves, and wiser people so full of doubts." - Bertrand Russell
I have a 3100SS with 305 watts of panels on the roof. I drilled and screwed the panels to the roof using Dicor between roof and bracket and then over screws. Same as the roof vents are. Ran the wires down refer. chim. to controller then to bats. Has been fine for 3 years so far.
My roof is hard fiberglass and I screwed all 6 x 100 watt panels down, then Diacor on top of screws. That way, they can be removed if broken or rearranged. Some space below the panels is a good thing as high temps are counter productive to solar panels.
IMHO, I would go with the MPPT controller over the PWM unit AND I would go larger on the size controller as you will most likely add more panels down the road. Been there, done that. I have two "extra" controllers in my garage due to trial and error. MPPT units work far better than the PWM controllers.
__________________ Aviator Wright Flyer #1919
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I bought the flexible panels from eBay. They are very thin, and have nothing to catch the wind. I did my truck camper a few years back, and was goi,ng to remove it before I sold it. It didn't take me long to decide it wasn't worth trying to remove it. It was very well attached. I did the same thing on my ROO. It has a textured roof, and the silicone works great. I ran my wires outside in conduit to the batteries. Not beautiful, but no holes in the roof. Use large wires between panel and controller to maximize voltage, and same between controller and battery. The heavier and shorter the wires, the better. I highly recommend the following blog: https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/...ging-puzzle-2/
I bought my panels from a Quebec based company Solar energy dc in Montreal. $490 CDN buys you the wiring, 255 watt panel and mppt controller. In us funds that less than $400. Then you buy the mounting feet from rv solar for $8 and screw those puppies down and dicor in, on and around the feet as you mount them. There is wind (especialy side breezes) up there. So the cables need to be secured to the roof. Home depot has ties with sticky feet that do the job. Enjoy the view from the top of the rv. My neighbors all love watching me work.
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Eric Jackson
Ottawa Ontario Canada
2015 Solera 24R
I mounted my panels to my roof with screws/brackets/dicor. Although I wasn't excited about drilling holes in my roof, I figured this was a superior method of attachment. Panels can be replaced if needed and the separation from the roof allows for some airflow around the panels. Albeit I have read some information about flexible panels do not require airflow, nevertheless I wasn't interested in flexible panels.
My panels are monocrystalline which reportedly are the most effective at producing power.
I also agree with the prior comment about installing a controller (i.e. 30A) that allows for some expansion if ever desired. I also agree that a MPPT controller is the best way to go. I had a PWM controller on my trailer and from my research a MPPT controller is superior in the power control and also the ability to boost the incoming power from the panels to the battery.
Admittedly I went all out with my install, consistent with my motto of buy nice or buy twice. And considering the extent of the installation process I wanted a superior system that would outlast my desire to keep the MH.
So I have 2x 160w monocrystalline panels with a BlueSky 2512ix 30A MPPT controller and the IPN ProRemote which gives me an overwhelming amount of data about the panel performance, battery charge state, and amp draw. Along with all of this there's a solar shutoff which cuts off the panels from the controller, battery temperature lead (for the remote data) and a battery shunt which is a prerequisite for the data the remote will report.
Here's a photo part way through the install. The wiring is routed through the fridge vent and this is before any of the brackets were affixed to the roof.
So, I think 100 watts is too little and 300 watts is too much. I just want to supplement so I don't have to run the generator 2-4 hours a day while dry camping. Also, I really don't want to spend $500+ this time of the year. I could get away spending $350 with a 150 watt panel, 20 amp controller and 12 awg cable. That probably will get me a lot of comments! Yes, I could go with 2x150 watt panels, 10 awg cables and a MTTP 30amp controller.
I will probably go with these mounts-http://www.amazon.com/Instapark®-ZJ-.../dp/B008LMIHNQ
VWexpert- do you find the 160 watt panel to be enough, or haven't you been out much to tell? I guess dukeboone has the ultimate setup with 320 watts and a 30 amp MTTP controller.
Dukeboone, I read you installed a solar panel cutoff. I hear the panels and controller can give false readings to the converter/charger when on generator or shoreline power. What did you use? Oh and did you place it between the battery and controller or controller and panels?
So, I think 100 watts is too little and 300 watts is too much. I just want to supplement so I don't have to run the generator 2-4 hours a day while dry camping. Also, I really don't want to spend $500+ this time of the year. I could get away spending $350 with a 150 watt panel, 20 amp controller and 12 awg cable. That probably will get me a lot of comments! Yes, I could go with 2x150 watt panels, 10 awg cables and a MTTP 30amp controller.
I will probably go with these mounts-http://www.amazon.com/Instapark®-ZJ-.../dp/B008LMIHNQ
I just have 200W. Was going with 150 however the sale price of the 200 made that decision too easy. I used mine late summer and fall to keep things topped off (we only boondock) and now it will keep all my batteries (including the chassis) charged while she is sleeping for the winter. You can always add another panel later. I keep getting suggestions I should have tiltable panels to max out power etc. too much screwing around and I am not prepared to keep playing with panels on the roof. I only need the panel to help out my system (that is why I have a genny). another panel would be nice however I need to get a couple of other things first such as PI power protections, auto genny start, wifi booster, cell booster. get what you can afford and make sure the controller and panel are not low quality junk. Install it correctly
I did use marine silicone 5200 to put under the brackets, then screwed, then dicored over the top of the screw/bracket. I also used the dicor to secure the wires. Because my panel is near the front of the coach I put a 2 inch conduit pip along just the leading edge to keep gust of wind from getting underneath the panel and putting extra strain on the system. I have a feeling the airflow was pretty well over the top of the panel anyway. No harm in being careful
Thanks MarsMan for the reply. My Renogy suitcase has a ViewStar 1025N and I will either buy the same in 20 amp or 30 amp. They are $80 and $120 and since I am only going to have 10-16 amps, I think the less expensive 20 amp may be the way to go. Did you add a shut off switch?
Sage...I think the 160 watt putts out around 10 amps. I feel that is plenty to run lights and tv's and keep system charged. A buddy has a 160 watt unit on his bigger class A and he said it works great.
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1971 20ft fireball (too small)
1987 27ft Tioga (bad brakes / tires)
1998 36ft Discovery (rattles / air leaks)
2005 37ft Monaco Knight (lemon Lawed)
2008 40ft Monaco Diplomat (too big)
2016 Forester 3011 (ordered June 8th - Born Aug 6) IT'S HERE
2015 sunseeker 3050s. 2007 saturn aura
Aviator Wright Flyer #1919
get what you can afford and make sure the controller and panel are not low quality junk. Install it correctly 
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