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Old 11-23-2015, 11:45 PM   #11
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My roof is hard fiberglass and I screwed all 6 x 100 watt panels down, then Diacor on top of screws. That way, they can be removed if broken or rearranged. Some space below the panels is a good thing as high temps are counter productive to solar panels.
IMHO, I would go with the MPPT controller over the PWM unit AND I would go larger on the size controller as you will most likely add more panels down the road. Been there, done that. I have two "extra" controllers in my garage due to trial and error. MPPT units work far better than the PWM controllers.
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Old 11-24-2015, 11:01 PM   #12
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Glue it down with silicone

I bought the flexible panels from eBay. They are very thin, and have nothing to catch the wind. I did my truck camper a few years back, and was goi,ng to remove it before I sold it. It didn't take me long to decide it wasn't worth trying to remove it. It was very well attached. I did the same thing on my ROO. It has a textured roof, and the silicone works great. I ran my wires outside in conduit to the batteries. Not beautiful, but no holes in the roof. Use large wires between panel and controller to maximize voltage, and same between controller and battery. The heavier and shorter the wires, the better. I highly recommend the following blog: https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/...ging-puzzle-2/
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Old 11-27-2015, 09:16 PM   #13
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I bought my panels from a Quebec based company Solar energy dc in Montreal. $490 CDN buys you the wiring, 255 watt panel and mppt controller. In us funds that less than $400. Then you buy the mounting feet from rv solar for $8 and screw those puppies down and dicor in, on and around the feet as you mount them. There is wind (especialy side breezes) up there. So the cables need to be secured to the roof. Home depot has ties with sticky feet that do the job. Enjoy the view from the top of the rv. My neighbors all love watching me work.
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Old 11-28-2015, 02:16 PM   #14
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I mounted my panels to my roof with screws/brackets/dicor. Although I wasn't excited about drilling holes in my roof, I figured this was a superior method of attachment. Panels can be replaced if needed and the separation from the roof allows for some airflow around the panels. Albeit I have read some information about flexible panels do not require airflow, nevertheless I wasn't interested in flexible panels.

My panels are monocrystalline which reportedly are the most effective at producing power.

I also agree with the prior comment about installing a controller (i.e. 30A) that allows for some expansion if ever desired. I also agree that a MPPT controller is the best way to go. I had a PWM controller on my trailer and from my research a MPPT controller is superior in the power control and also the ability to boost the incoming power from the panels to the battery.

Admittedly I went all out with my install, consistent with my motto of buy nice or buy twice. And considering the extent of the installation process I wanted a superior system that would outlast my desire to keep the MH.

So I have 2x 160w monocrystalline panels with a BlueSky 2512ix 30A MPPT controller and the IPN ProRemote which gives me an overwhelming amount of data about the panel performance, battery charge state, and amp draw. Along with all of this there's a solar shutoff which cuts off the panels from the controller, battery temperature lead (for the remote data) and a battery shunt which is a prerequisite for the data the remote will report.

Here's a photo part way through the install. The wiring is routed through the fridge vent and this is before any of the brackets were affixed to the roof.
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Old 11-29-2015, 08:41 AM   #15
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Decent amount of real estate on that roof Dukeboone
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Old 12-03-2015, 11:48 PM   #16
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So, I think 100 watts is too little and 300 watts is too much. I just want to supplement so I don't have to run the generator 2-4 hours a day while dry camping. Also, I really don't want to spend $500+ this time of the year. I could get away spending $350 with a 150 watt panel, 20 amp controller and 12 awg cable. That probably will get me a lot of comments! Yes, I could go with 2x150 watt panels, 10 awg cables and a MTTP 30amp controller.
I will probably go with these mounts-http://www.amazon.com/Instapark®-ZJ-.../dp/B008LMIHNQ
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Old 12-04-2015, 02:00 AM   #17
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VWexpert- do you find the 160 watt panel to be enough, or haven't you been out much to tell? I guess dukeboone has the ultimate setup with 320 watts and a 30 amp MTTP controller.
Dukeboone, I read you installed a solar panel cutoff. I hear the panels and controller can give false readings to the converter/charger when on generator or shoreline power. What did you use? Oh and did you place it between the battery and controller or controller and panels?
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Old 12-04-2015, 07:02 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sagecoachdriver View Post
So, I think 100 watts is too little and 300 watts is too much. I just want to supplement so I don't have to run the generator 2-4 hours a day while dry camping. Also, I really don't want to spend $500+ this time of the year. I could get away spending $350 with a 150 watt panel, 20 amp controller and 12 awg cable. That probably will get me a lot of comments! Yes, I could go with 2x150 watt panels, 10 awg cables and a MTTP 30amp controller.
I will probably go with these mounts-http://www.amazon.com/Instapark®-ZJ-.../dp/B008LMIHNQ
I just have 200W. Was going with 150 however the sale price of the 200 made that decision too easy. I used mine late summer and fall to keep things topped off (we only boondock) and now it will keep all my batteries (including the chassis) charged while she is sleeping for the winter. You can always add another panel later. I keep getting suggestions I should have tiltable panels to max out power etc. too much screwing around and I am not prepared to keep playing with panels on the roof. I only need the panel to help out my system (that is why I have a genny). another panel would be nice however I need to get a couple of other things first such as PI power protections, auto genny start, wifi booster, cell booster. get what you can afford and make sure the controller and panel are not low quality junk. Install it correctly

I did use marine silicone 5200 to put under the brackets, then screwed, then dicored over the top of the screw/bracket. I also used the dicor to secure the wires. Because my panel is near the front of the coach I put a 2 inch conduit pip along just the leading edge to keep gust of wind from getting underneath the panel and putting extra strain on the system. I have a feeling the airflow was pretty well over the top of the panel anyway. No harm in being careful
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Old 12-04-2015, 11:47 AM   #19
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Thanks MarsMan for the reply. My Renogy suitcase has a ViewStar 1025N and I will either buy the same in 20 amp or 30 amp. They are $80 and $120 and since I am only going to have 10-16 amps, I think the less expensive 20 amp may be the way to go. Did you add a shut off switch?
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Old 12-04-2015, 11:48 AM   #20
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Sage...I think the 160 watt putts out around 10 amps. I feel that is plenty to run lights and tv's and keep system charged. A buddy has a 160 watt unit on his bigger class A and he said it works great.
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