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Old 12-04-2015, 11:59 AM   #21
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Doesn't cost that much

Look on eBay for 100 watt flexible panels and Morningstar 20 amp charge controllers. You can get two panels and a charge controller for well under $300. I just silicone caulked the panel to the roof. Permanent installation, quick, easy, and cheap, with no roof penetrations. I used a plastic electric junction box and flexible conduit for the run to my fuse box. If you run the wires inside, you may not need that. I got the fuse box at Habitat for Humanity ReStore. Definitely want a shut off switch and a fuse or breaker just to prevent a fire in case of a short. Might want to read this blog too. https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/...ging-puzzle-2/
Lots of good advice from someone who does it full time w/o a generator.
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Old 12-04-2015, 04:28 PM   #22
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Dukeboone, I read you installed a solar panel cutoff. I hear the panels and controller can give false readings to the converter/charger when on generator or shoreline power. What did you use? Oh and did you place it between the battery and controller or controller and panels?
Well my system is likely overkill for the amp hours on my coach batteries however I do plan to upgrade them in the future. I mostly boondock and really don't want to use the generator in that scenario unless I really need to use the A/C to cool down and/or use the microwave for something. And much like others I don't want to crawl on the roof to angle the panels, just install and forget about. Anyway, I admit I didn't do the install myself but rather a local RV solar installer, it's all he does so needless to say he's into it. I do believe the cutoff is between the panels and the controller. Based upon my recollection of what he told me of the install method there should be no issue with the using the solar and shore power in terms of readings with the remote I have. HTH
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Old 12-04-2015, 05:05 PM   #23
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Thanks MarsMan for the reply. My Renogy suitcase has a ViewStar 1025N and I will either buy the same in 20 amp or 30 amp. They are $80 and $120 and since I am only going to have 10-16 amps, I think the less expensive 20 amp may be the way to go. Did you add a shut off switch?
I did put in a shut off between the panel and the controller. I wanted to de-energize the wires before having to do any work on the controller. I read somewhere it is not a good idea to leave the panels turned off via a switch for an extended period of time. It said best to cover the panel with a blanket. Tough to do sometimes.
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Old 12-04-2015, 07:04 PM   #24
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I will be mounting the solar cutoff on the entry doorway switch panel. I will move the aisle light down and install a switch like the battery cutoff in the lower left. I plan on mounting the controller in trash cabinet just above the entry switch panel. Batteries are 1 foot away in the steps.
Update: I found the exact switch in black on Amazon for $26. Now I'm wondering if the switch has a direct link to the batteries or goes thru a relay below in the fuse/relay panel??
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Old 12-07-2015, 10:43 PM   #25
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Stickyt feet??

Found these as an option, expensive. Fixed Flat Photovoltaic Solar Module Mounting System - RV Solar Connection - Denver, Colorado
Uses the 3M VHB tape
I don't want to void my warranty by drilling holes just yet!
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Old 12-10-2015, 12:15 PM   #26
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I know an air gap has to be left under the panels when roof mounted to release the heat build up. Is there any chance the heat build up will cause damage to the roof like delamination or separation?
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Old 12-18-2015, 11:09 AM   #27
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Called Solar stores

They don't recommend using 3M VHN tape as the only method of attaching feet to the roof. Have to use screws.
Also, what AWG wire do you use for a 20-25 foot run to the controller? 5% loss is OK for me. Most of the Solar panel kits come with 10awg and 2x20 foot lengths.
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Old 12-18-2015, 11:13 AM   #28
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That's what I used. 10 awg over 15 feet. I ran down the back of fridge gap and under the counter to the controller. Then down through the floor with the rest of the electrical wires under the coach and into the battery box.
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Old 12-18-2015, 01:28 PM   #29
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Will this work?

Will this work? 2x100 watt panels roof mounted and run 5'-8' of 12awg each to branch connectors outside at the fridge vent and run 10awg thru the vent for 20' to the controller? The Renogy 200 watt kit cwill come with 20' of 2 wire 10 awg panel connectors cable which will be short. I have plenty of 12awg cable, 5 sets of MC4 connects and 4 branch connectors.
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Old 12-18-2015, 02:04 PM   #30
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Sounds like a plan. The connectors from my panels were 4' long. So I didn't need as much 10awg cable to get to the controller.
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