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Old 06-04-2018, 07:11 AM   #1
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Water Heater Drain

I read in another post recently where someone had put a drain valve of some type to conveniently drain their water heater.

Looking into this, I've found a brass petcock but have some doubts about the brass and aluminum tank, and galvanic action. Any thread tape or seal will not provide a proper dialectic barrier.

Wondering if others have a different solution? Perhaps it's just best to leave the existing plug.

Thanks
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Old 06-04-2018, 07:14 AM   #2
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Just use the existing plastic plug. By using the valve you are reducing the size of the hole and leaving trash in the bottom of the tank.
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Old 06-04-2018, 07:28 AM   #3
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Just use the existing plastic plug. By using the valve you are reducing the size of the hole and leaving trash in the bottom of the tank.
150% True statement! Thanks,Youroo!!
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Old 06-04-2018, 07:57 AM   #4
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I tried that same valve and almost immediately had rust form. I used good amount of Teflon tape also.
I just went back to plastic plug, brass and aluminum do not mix.
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Old 06-04-2018, 08:12 AM   #5
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Not a good idea. Loss of your anode is a bad idea.
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Old 06-04-2018, 08:14 AM   #6
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If you have the right tools for the job you stand a better chance of accomplishing your goal. There is even a plug with an insect screen that you can put in so your water heater tank can dry without becoming a lovely insect cave.
Here is a link you might want to consider:
Camco 11633 Water Heater Drain Plug and Wrench Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMRRZ94..._3BtfBbAWMVMJQ

You should be able to find the bug plug through this link as well.

I also have an ulterior motive for responding to this post. I just felt that somebody who at least has a motorhome, albeit only a lesser sister of a Forester, should post in this section what being the Forester Motorhome section and all. Call it a peccadillo.
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Old 06-04-2018, 08:17 AM   #7
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Not a good idea. Loss of your anode is a bad idea.
No anode rod in an Atwood WH. But still not a good idea.
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Old 06-04-2018, 08:19 AM   #8
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No anode rod in an Atwood WH. But still not a good idea.
You're right. I didn't catch he had an Atwood. Not a lot of Atwood owners here.
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Old 06-04-2018, 11:38 AM   #9
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There shouldn't be too much more discussion on this one.

Cavie made a good point that if I was going to drain it, the petcock would not fully drain the tank. Why leave sludge in the tank?

Duckogram has a good link for replacement plugs. Camco 11633 Water Heater Drain Plug and Wrench Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMRRZ94..._3BtfBbAWMVMJQ

I also keep a 15/16 socket and short 3/8 drive extension to get to it for convenience.

Thanks again
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Old 06-10-2018, 02:43 PM   #10
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I have a 2017 Forester 3051 with an Atwood water heater. There are 2 low point drain lines below the compartment with the water filter... one is blue and drains the fresh water tank when I open the valve in the compartment above. The other is red with a screw cap over it. When I remove the cap a little water comes out but when I open the water heater relief valve, over 5 more gallons of water come out and I can hear what sounds like the water heater emptying.
Is there any reason I should remove the plug on the tank also?
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Old 06-10-2018, 02:49 PM   #11
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I have a 2017 Forester 3051 with an Atwood water heater. There are 2 low point drain lines below the compartment with the water filter... one is blue and drains the fresh water tank when I open the valve in the compartment above. The other is red with a screw cap over it. When I remove the cap a little water comes out but when I open the water heater relief valve, over 5 more gallons of water come out and I can hear what sounds like the water heater emptying.
Is there any reason I should remove the plug on the tank also?
Only if you want to NOT drain the "Crap" from the bottom of your Hot water Tank into your waterlines! Youroo!!
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Old 06-10-2018, 02:58 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Netgain View Post
I have a 2017 Forester 3051 with an Atwood water heater. There are 2 low point drain lines below the compartment with the water filter... one is blue and drains the fresh water tank when I open the valve in the compartment above. The other is red with a screw cap over it. When I remove the cap a little water comes out but when I open the water heater relief valve, over 5 more gallons of water come out and I can hear what sounds like the water heater emptying.
Is there any reason I should remove the plug on the tank also?
This is a really bad idea. Draining the hot water tank through the cold water line (bottom one in the hot water heater) will draw the sediment (bits of calcium and other salts) out of the tank and into the pipes.

Subsequent repressurizations can push that crud into your faucets and toilet valves resulting in unnecessary plumbing repairs.

Close the heater isolation valves when draining the water heater and drain the pipes separate from the heater tank. Learn from the others rather than the school of hard knocks ...
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