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Old 11-05-2015, 09:34 AM   #1
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Winterizing 2014 Sunseeker/Forester 2300/2301

Have made up instructions to help perform the winterize job correctly. This is my new to me first motor-home and would like you to proof read and let me know if the steps are in order and the procedure is correct. Has any detail been left out? Please click link to download pdf file. Thanks for your help.


http://users.snip.net/~mogul/MH/Wint...0Sunseeker.pdf
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Old 11-05-2015, 10:42 AM   #2
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Really appreciate the documentation, just a couple of questions, we have the 2860ds, do you know if once you remove the canister for the water filter and take out the filter that the canister gets screwed back on or leave it off also the fridge has an ice maker do you know how that is drained?
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Old 11-05-2015, 12:35 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steveanddianne View Post
Really appreciate the documentation, just a couple of questions, we have the 2860ds, do you know if once you remove the canister for the water filter and take out the filter that the canister gets screwed back on or leave it off also the fridge has an ice maker do you know how that is drained?

Thanks for compliment but I am the newbie. My first motorhome and first post made on this forum. Made the instructions for winterizing to help me remember what to do, instead of reinventing the process the next time. I plan on doing a few times every year. I am hoping to have replies correcting any mistakes that have been made.
And it seems you have caught one already, the water filter. Thinking that to remove and drain and that needs to be added to the instructions. Not sure in what spot or order yet. So thank you. Then put plastic bag with rubber band around where it attaches so no bugs can get into. Do not have an icemaker, ran out of money before that option.
Thanks for your reply, 17Racer
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Old 11-05-2015, 04:17 PM   #4
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I also pull the wire screen filter off during winter.
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Old 11-05-2015, 10:06 PM   #5
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Winterizing 2014 Sunseeker/Forester 2300/2301

Put the filter canister back after removing the filter or you will have a flood. That would be an open water line in the coach. It needs to be re-attached before blowing out lines and before adding antifreeze, whichever you do or both.

Please see attached write-up.

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Old 11-05-2015, 10:14 PM   #6
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Winterizing 2014 Sunseeker/Forester 2300/2301

"Then open red and blue valve and drain hot water heater. (picture shows them closed as they should be when finished)."

This step is not correct for a couple of reasons.

The water heater is drained through a plug accessed from the external w/h compartment. First make sure the water is not hot so you don't get scalded. Let it cool down. Second, lift the pressure relief valve to relieve pressure. Third, remove the plug and let it run out. Leave plug out but do NOT lose it. Some water will be left in the tank. The mfgr (at least if Atwood) say this freezing will not hurt anything. However some accumulated crud in there doesn't drain out so some people flush or siphon it all out.

After this you should open the bypass valve and close the red and blue line valves so you can blow the line out and/or add antifreeze without filling the h/w tank. I know that isn't on your to-do list but should be kept in mind in case you do, and also should be included in any checklist for other users who may do that.
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Old 11-05-2015, 10:20 PM   #7
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Winterizing 2014 Sunseeker/Forester 2300/2301

Author I posted says 60 psi. Forest River says no more than 30 psi. Opinions differ on this. The answer somewhat depends on whether you accidentally or on purpose ever have all lines closed with the compressed air on. Also how comfortable you are that your regulator is actually limiting it to 60 psi. Plus your own experience with how much water blows all over inside the coach.
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Old 11-06-2015, 09:38 AM   #8
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By listening to replies and searching other post the need to update my instruction sheet was needed. Actually many changes were made and some added. From what I now understand the by-pass valve is only used for when AF is also added. Using the blow out method does away with that step. This is my new instruction sheet and hopefully this will work correctly.
Thanks for your replies, 17Racer

http://users.snip.net/~mogul/MH/Wint...unseeker-2.pdf
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Old 11-06-2015, 12:23 PM   #9
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You should probably move up step 7 as in the article to step one. You will need the water on and running to flush the gray and black water tanks with copious amounts of water when draining them for the season. You will need city water connected or water in the fresh water tank plus your water pump. The gray tank will need to be flushed out and especially you have to get everything out of the black water tank since it will dry out - anything left will turn to stone. If you have a black water flush connection, you will want to use that thoroughly or else get a blank tank wand to use inside, or just use a hose grasp-type nozzle that can be locked "on" and pointed to the sides inside where you can't reach.

Step 3 - you will want to remove the water filter before blowing out the lines. Either throw away the filter or if you really think it can be re-used, put into a baggie and put in the freezer to prevent mold and bacteria growth until using again.

Step 4 - I don't see where you have a step to drain the water out of the water heater. This can't be done with the drain lines. You have to take the plug out of the heater and let out 4-5 gallons of water. See post #6 above for steps and precautions.

I truly credit your effort to make a checklist but many experts have given us detailed step by step instructions. If you omit any or change the work flow order, there is quite a risk of doing it wrong. I also appreciate your sharing it with us! I hope these comments are helpful and don't discourage you - certainly not the intent!
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Old 11-06-2015, 07:22 PM   #10
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Thanks for your reply, I do have the black tank flush hook up and that would be used with black drain open. And both gray and black should be nearly full to flush well.

That is a Roger on the filter throw away if used and a neat trick if it is near new.

Drain plug for water heater. Not sure of location yet. There is what looks like an ordinary pipe plug in the right side vent compartment that has the gas unit. Not sure if this is it, I thought it looked kind of high off the ground.

Trying to get detailed instructions just for my unit made, most seem to be generic and my mind is forgetful and this would make all the difference to me.

Not using the forum to get comments I want to hear but to get information from knowledgeable people. So thank you very much for taking the time to help a newbie.
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Old 11-07-2015, 12:28 AM   #11
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Here is an Atwood showing the white drain plug on the left side, behind the gas line.
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And here's one with the plug removed.
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