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Old 09-06-2016, 08:28 PM   #1
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Winterizing Dometic fridge with ice maker

Can anyone provide any advice on how to winterize the ice maker in the Dometic 12 cu.ft. Fridge?
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Old 09-07-2016, 11:58 AM   #2
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Winterizing Dometic with Icemaker
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Old 09-07-2016, 12:04 PM   #3
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sure you can do all that, but I think there is a much better way. Leave the reefer running and attach a compressor to the city water connection, just like you do to blow out the water lines.

Blow out all of the water lines by turning on the faucets and letting the water come out, just like you do for general winterizing.

LEAVE THE COMPRESSOR ATTACHED for 24 hours and leave the icemaker on. It will cycle on its own and eventually clear all of the water from the lines and icemaker.

CLOSE the pop up valve that goes to the reefer. Winterize all of the rest of the plumbing by ingesting RV antifreeze through the pump and running it out of all of the faucets,(remember that shower if you have one) but none will go to the icemaker since the valve is closed.
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Old 09-07-2016, 02:10 PM   #4
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Thank you Scott, I have a couple more trips this fall but want to be prepared.
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Old 09-08-2016, 04:31 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Gilm2113 View Post
Thank you Scott, I have a couple more trips this fall but want to be prepared.

A touch easier method: when you drain down and blow the system- disconnect the water feed to the IC maker. A few ounces will remain in the production mechanism. So what, it's an ice maker. Water is no harder at -1000F than it is at 32F. Lastly save the foul tasting pink stuff. If blown well, it's s waste of money.
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:42 AM   #6
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Thanks for the tips Vince. My concern is with water freezing in the ice maker valve, which is not in the freezer section but on the back, accessible from the outside compartment. Tags on the valve show where to disconnect so it can drain for winterizing.
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:55 AM   #7
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If you can get to the valve easily that is a different story. Pop off the tube that goes up the back of the reefer to drain the standing water, then disconnect the feed to the valve to drain it or leave the upper tube off and let the unit go though a cycle to clear and remaining water from the valve. Its the valve that you need to protect. The tube that goes up the back of the reefer stays filled with water and needs to be drained but after that, there is nothing in the freezer that you have to worry about.
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Old 09-13-2016, 09:41 AM   #8
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sure you can do all that, but I think there is a much better way. Leave the reefer running and attach a compressor to the city water connection, just like you do to blow out the water lines.

Blow out all of the water lines by turning on the faucets and letting the water come out, just like you do for general winterizing.

LEAVE THE COMPRESSOR ATTACHED for 24 hours and leave the icemaker on. It will cycle on its own and eventually clear all of the water from the lines and icemaker.

CLOSE the pop up valve that goes to the reefer. Winterize all of the rest of the plumbing by ingesting RV antifreeze through the pump and running it out of all of the faucets,(remember that shower if you have one) but none will go to the icemaker since the valve is closed.
ScottBrownstein, how do you close the pop up valve?
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Old 09-13-2016, 10:19 AM   #9
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The pop up valve is a white plastic valve that connects the 1/2 inch PEX to the white 1/4 inch line to the reefer. It doesn't turn you push it down and pull it up rather than turn it. I would start with the compartment behind the reefer
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Old 09-13-2016, 11:55 AM   #10
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Thanks Scott. I know where it is just didn't know if I should turn or pull. It's in the down position so I assume I will pull up to shut off. Thanks again.
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