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Old 09-06-2016, 07:28 PM   #1
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Winterizing Dometic fridge with ice maker

Can anyone provide any advice on how to winterize the ice maker in the Dometic 12 cu.ft. Fridge?
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Old 09-07-2016, 10:58 AM   #2
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Winterizing Dometic with Icemaker
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Old 09-07-2016, 11:04 AM   #3
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sure you can do all that, but I think there is a much better way. Leave the reefer running and attach a compressor to the city water connection, just like you do to blow out the water lines.

Blow out all of the water lines by turning on the faucets and letting the water come out, just like you do for general winterizing.

LEAVE THE COMPRESSOR ATTACHED for 24 hours and leave the icemaker on. It will cycle on its own and eventually clear all of the water from the lines and icemaker.

CLOSE the pop up valve that goes to the reefer. Winterize all of the rest of the plumbing by ingesting RV antifreeze through the pump and running it out of all of the faucets,(remember that shower if you have one) but none will go to the icemaker since the valve is closed.
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Old 09-07-2016, 01:10 PM   #4
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Thank you Scott, I have a couple more trips this fall but want to be prepared.
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Old 09-08-2016, 03:31 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Gilm2113 View Post
Thank you Scott, I have a couple more trips this fall but want to be prepared.

A touch easier method: when you drain down and blow the system- disconnect the water feed to the IC maker. A few ounces will remain in the production mechanism. So what, it's an ice maker. Water is no harder at -1000F than it is at 32F. Lastly save the foul tasting pink stuff. If blown well, it's s waste of money.
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Old 09-13-2016, 07:42 AM   #6
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Thanks for the tips Vince. My concern is with water freezing in the ice maker valve, which is not in the freezer section but on the back, accessible from the outside compartment. Tags on the valve show where to disconnect so it can drain for winterizing.
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Old 09-13-2016, 07:55 AM   #7
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If you can get to the valve easily that is a different story. Pop off the tube that goes up the back of the reefer to drain the standing water, then disconnect the feed to the valve to drain it or leave the upper tube off and let the unit go though a cycle to clear and remaining water from the valve. Its the valve that you need to protect. The tube that goes up the back of the reefer stays filled with water and needs to be drained but after that, there is nothing in the freezer that you have to worry about.
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:41 AM   #8
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sure you can do all that, but I think there is a much better way. Leave the reefer running and attach a compressor to the city water connection, just like you do to blow out the water lines.

Blow out all of the water lines by turning on the faucets and letting the water come out, just like you do for general winterizing.

LEAVE THE COMPRESSOR ATTACHED for 24 hours and leave the icemaker on. It will cycle on its own and eventually clear all of the water from the lines and icemaker.

CLOSE the pop up valve that goes to the reefer. Winterize all of the rest of the plumbing by ingesting RV antifreeze through the pump and running it out of all of the faucets,(remember that shower if you have one) but none will go to the icemaker since the valve is closed.
ScottBrownstein, how do you close the pop up valve?
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Old 09-13-2016, 09:19 AM   #9
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The pop up valve is a white plastic valve that connects the 1/2 inch PEX to the white 1/4 inch line to the reefer. It doesn't turn you push it down and pull it up rather than turn it. I would start with the compartment behind the reefer
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Old 09-13-2016, 10:55 AM   #10
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Thanks Scott. I know where it is just didn't know if I should turn or pull. It's in the down position so I assume I will pull up to shut off. Thanks again.
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Old 09-13-2016, 05:10 PM   #11
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Just wanted to thank all you for your help. I successfully got my rig winterized including the ice maker in the fridge. I truly appreciate the assistance you all provided.
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Old 10-10-2016, 05:02 PM   #12
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Scott have the same unit and if you don't mind what to be sure I understand: the cellinoid valve on the back of the refridge has two connections on ours the tube that comes out of the bottom of the valve is copper - if I disconnect it it won't move so since the tide goes up the back you mean it will just drain on its own? Then for the tube the feeds the valve it is plastic, I leave that connected and leave the ice maker on it will pull through the remaining water in this line? So that means that before it do this I need to shut the water line off which is a push button under the fridge? Thanks steve
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Old 10-10-2016, 06:35 PM   #13
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OK, here is the problem. There is water in the feed line, the valve and the line that runs to the water dispenser on the door and the line that runs up the back to the icemaker. If you put compressed air on the RV, you can bleed the line that feeds the reefer and the line that goes to the water dispenser on the door, presumably through the filter. The problem is that the line that goes up the back of the reefer to the ice maker still has water in it as does the solenoid valve that feeds it. The only way to empty that is to cycle the icemaker a few times. Now some vendors give you a complicated procedure to force cycle the icemaker. I would prefer to just let it run overnight and cycle itself a half dozen times. On my cottage Whirlpool one single cycle empties the whole things so 4 or 5 is just to make sure. Much simpler that way. This is the same process as the more complicated one where you disconnect the lines and put compressed air into the reefer while cycling the icemaker.

Then, you can pull the filter and take it inside, close the pop-up that feeds the reefer and pump the pink stuff through the rest of the faucets and traps.
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Old 10-10-2016, 07:04 PM   #14
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Winterize

Scott thanks - our unit only has an ice maker / no water dispenser (ice maker)in the door. We have one line under the refridge (pex) the goes directly up to the selinoid then one from the selinoid to the ice maker. So if I just shut off the water under the refridge and leave the ice maker on for all those cycles , I should be all set? No other winterize NG required? Thanks again the paper on the back with the instruction is very confusing. Steve
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Old 10-10-2016, 07:14 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Steveanddianne View Post
Scott thanks - our unit only has an ice maker / no water dispenser (ice maker)in the door. We have one line under the refridge (pex) the goes directly up to the selinoid then one from the selinoid to the ice maker. So if I just shut off the water under the refridge and leave the ice maker on for all those cycles , I should be all set? No other winterize NG required? Thanks again the paper on the back with the instruction is very confusing. Steve
No...No...No...No. Sorry I was not clear enough. You need the compressed air for this to work. If you just shut off the reefer the water will stay in the line no matter how many cycles the ice maker runs since there is no pressure to push it out. The valve will freeze and split as will the line up the back of the reefer.
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Old 10-10-2016, 07:22 PM   #16
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Winterize

Got it thanks
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Old 10-11-2016, 07:30 AM   #17
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Few additional questions

I only have the viar Rv compressor for the tires, so I will need to pick up a compressor that will run for the 24hr cycle. What do you Suggest on a compressor. Also I assume that the air pressure needs to be set to a certain level to avoid damaging the plumbing what should that be? Are there other attachments that I need to get to hook the compressor up to the Rv city hookup inlet? Thanks - first time we are going to be using a compressor so with are luck will mess something up - that's why all the questions - just want to be sure we do this correctly
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Old 10-11-2016, 07:45 AM   #18
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20 pounds should be fine. You can get a blowout fitting at Walmart but I prefer to just make one with parts from Home Depot. (Hose, quick disconnect, adaptor and male hose fitting) Tell the guy at Lowes or Home Depot what you are doing and he will show you the parts you need.
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Old 11-12-2016, 05:28 PM   #19
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Scott, with the fridge on and with my little Porter cable compressor set at 20psi, hooked to a blowout plug at the city water connection, turned this little motor gear under the icemaker end cover about 1/4 turn per the instructions and it kept moving on its own through the dump cycle, then burped water/air. Did this three times til no more water, then pulled (closed) the shut-off valve upstream from the solenoid valve. Discovered on our 3010 SS, that I can just reach this shutoff by fully extending the drawer under the oven and reaching all the way to the back and up. No pink ice! Thanks for your help!
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Old 11-12-2016, 09:29 PM   #20
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My plan is to just leave the RV plugged in ... keep the heat set a 58 degrees .... all should be fine ..... right?
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