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Old 11-03-2015, 07:06 PM   #11
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If only a simple disconnect switch would work for my 2011 Georgetown. My two house batteries have small wires attached to both grounds and both positive posts. These small wires provide power to the parasitic loads that happily drain the batteries when they're supposedly disconnected.

The simplest solution is to follow Onan's recommendation and run the generator for a while every month to prevent carburetor varnishing. This also recharges the house and chassis batteries.

Phil
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Old 11-04-2015, 08:02 AM   #12
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05 gtwn 375 ts had that RATS NEST mech got knife switch wired ALL to battery side when knife is up ALL is off DID this because cant get wire diagrams anywhere
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Old 12-13-2015, 09:01 AM   #13
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part of the problem is that my 3 switches have no labels whatsoever. I did take a pic, but when i try to upload it asks me for the "url" where the pic resides - i have no url, it is just a .jpg on my computer so i don't know how to upload the pic

the radio was broken when we purchased. it has no front panel. but the secondary panel continues to have a light flash. i am wondering if the radio is somehow "on" and that is draining our battery. i am wondering if i just should just force the black secondary panel off and clip wires to the radio to see if that might be the problem.
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Old 12-13-2015, 09:30 AM   #14
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Your problem relates to the chassis battery and not the house batteries. On my Georgetown there is no way to disconnect the chassis battery as the switch you are referring to only disconnects the house batteries. I have read some good comments here...like how old is your chassis battery, what to the battery lugs look like, etc. It is possible that your radio is in the "road mode" which means it is powered by the chassis battery as well, but that load shouldn't be enough to discharge a good battery in a few days.

In the past I have had these problems with an old battery and with corroded ground connections to the chassis and on the battery itself. Best to confirm that all is well there before going further.
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Old 12-13-2015, 03:22 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by milkpitcher View Post
part of the problem is that my 3 switches have no labels whatsoever. I did take a pic, but when i try to upload it asks me for the "url" where the pic resides - i have no url, it is just a .jpg on my computer so i don't know how to upload the pic

the radio was broken when we purchased. it has no front panel. but the secondary panel continues to have a light flash. i am wondering if the radio is somehow "on" and that is draining our battery. i am wondering if i just should just force the black secondary panel off and clip wires to the radio to see if that might be the problem.

If you had a few pictures of what you are talking about would help.

Your 2003 may be a lot different than the more recent Georgetowns
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Old 12-15-2015, 03:20 PM   #16
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I agree with all who stated that you can easily end your dead chassis (engine) battery by putting a "knife" action battery dis-connect switch on the negative battery terminal. Sure you have to open the hood or stairs (where ever your battery is located) if the rig is going to sit for more than a couple of days. But, the battery will be juiced when you go to start it up next time. This was the solution to my start battery always being dead on my previous rig.
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Old 12-15-2015, 07:44 PM   #17
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Georgetown 303W - 2003

I have yet to figure out the buttons right as you come into the door!

and i don't know what it means to "use/store" battery.

But, I have a feeling that our misuse of these buttons is what makes it that our RV never starts without a jump?

is there any kind of diagram or simple explanation for these - it controls the steps, etc..


No one has asked so I will.
Have you had the battery in the engine load tested?
It just may be an old weak battery that needs replacing.
That way you will find out quickly if its the battery or you have a compartment light left on underneath.
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Old 12-16-2015, 12:33 PM   #18
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No one has asked so I will.
Have you had the battery in the engine load tested?
It just may be an old weak battery that needs replacing.
That way you will find out quickly if its the battery or you have a compartment light left on underneath.
I agree.. Load test battery after a good charge and if it checks ok then loosen the negative cable and lift it off slowly and see if you get serious sparks.. If so then something is causing a draw on the battery like headlights or something plugged into the cig lighter.. The coach itself is on the other batteries and will not cause the problem you are having..
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Old 12-18-2015, 01:44 PM   #19
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Good advice. I was surprised when I found that even with the relay switch set to disconnect, there is still a parasitic drag on the batteries. I installed a switch to cut out the propane relay, but there is still a drain. I also installed a disconnect like in the picture.
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Old 12-18-2015, 01:59 PM   #20
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Good advice. I was surprised when I found that even with the relay switch set to disconnect, there is still a parasitic drag on the batteries. I installed a switch to cut out the propane relay, but there is still a drain. I also installed a disconnect like in the picture.
With the coach batteries off with the main switch should disconnect these batteries. The only things that are attached to the batteries themselves is the awning and step fuses.
I have my rig in a storage location for months and my house batteries disconnected drain slowly. I just checked mine yesterday and they were down to 10.5 volts after being left for 3 1/2 months. I started my engine for about 5 minutes and that took the batteries back up to about 13 volts.

You can also pull the fuses attached to your batteries to se if something is still on somewhere.
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