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Old 11-03-2015, 09:11 AM   #1
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2003 georgetown class a - cannot figure this out

Georgetown 303W - 2003

I have yet to figure out the buttons right as you come into the door!

and i don't know what it means to "use/store" battery.

But, I have a feeling that our misuse of these buttons is what makes it that our RV never starts without a jump?

is there any kind of diagram or simple explanation for these - it controls the steps, etc..
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Old 11-03-2015, 09:51 AM   #2
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The switch is at times called a "salesman switch" used to shut off the batteries. When in the store position is disconnects the batteries. When using the motorhome should be in the use position.
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Old 11-03-2015, 09:53 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milkpitcher View Post
Georgetown 303W - 2003

I have yet to figure out the buttons right as you come into the door!

and i don't know what it means to "use/store" battery.

But, I have a feeling that our misuse of these buttons is what makes it that our RV never starts without a jump?

is there any kind of diagram or simple explanation for these - it controls the steps, etc..
The Use/store button should be a disconnect of your house batteries. Your chassis battery (starting), should be separate from your house batteries and shouldn't have a drain on it unless the key is on. Have you had your chassis battery checked to make sure it is good?
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Old 11-03-2015, 11:11 AM   #4
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First off we are here to help.
Here is a picture of my switches in my 2012.
If you took a picture of your would be helpful as things changed since your 2003 model year.


Does your look like this with labels?
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Old 11-03-2015, 01:31 PM   #5
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I have a 2003 Georgetown 325S. The switches on mine are: Single switch in its own mount is for the house batteries. Push down to store. Up to engage the batteries. There should be a red light illuminated when you push the switch up. The other switches are for, from right to left probably, the steps, the floor lights and the outside night lite. Two batteries are your house batteries. I have my coach battery in the same place under the steps. It is separate from your house batteries but while running the coach will charge all batteries. The generator will do the same. I hope this helps.
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Old 11-03-2015, 02:02 PM   #6
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We have a 2004 which is the same as reddiver except that from the door we have outside light, floor light, step switch, then a larger panel with the battery disconnect.

We have two things that are wired direct and do not go through the disconnect - the propane detector/switch and the steps.

But, as someone said, it sounds like the OP's problem is with the engine battery and is not directly impacted by the house batteries.
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Old 11-03-2015, 03:01 PM   #7
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There can be continuous parasitic loads on the engine battery such as the radio/CD player which will drain the battery eventually leaving you unable to start the engine.
Likewise there are continuous parasitic draind on you HOUSE batteries regardless of what position your salesman switch is in (propaned detector is one).
The only way to remove all drains is to remove the negative cable from each side of your batteries...or get a switch at walmart that lets you do the same thing.
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Old 11-03-2015, 03:51 PM   #8
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Parasitic load LOL
I turn my light stich off and it stop the flow of electricity.
You hit the coach battery switch to store/off and it disconnects any load from those batteries. Who here cares or knows what parasitic leakage is? If you have highly corroded terminals and never cleaned your batteries you will have leakage to ground/frame.

Turn the switch on when you drive and off when you store your rig.
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Quote:
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There can be continuous parasitic loads on the engine battery such as the radio/CD player which will drain the battery eventually leaving you unable to start the engine.
Likewise there are continuous parasitic draind on you HOUSE batteries regardless of what position your salesman switch is in (propaned detector is one).
The only way to remove all drains is to remove the negative cable from each side of your batteries...or get a switch at walmart that lets you do the same thing.
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Old 11-03-2015, 04:04 PM   #9
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05 gtwn 375ts gave up on their elect systems just put in a knife switch


when I store the MH I pull knife also had the house bats wired so gen charges them when driveing
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Old 11-03-2015, 05:16 PM   #10
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Iggy....try a DC clamp amp meter on your battery positive cable after you've turned the salesman switch off. You may be surprised when you don't read ZERO.
It's not gonna go dead in a few nights...but it will go dead or in damage territory between uses if you camp infrequently. If you have a 100 amp hour house battery...a 1/10th amp load will lose 2.4amphours a day....30 days and your battery is 3/4 discharged....even if 100% charged when you put it to bed...40 days is dead flat.

Ditto engine battery with the difference being that typically you NEED at least a 50% charge to kick the starter over...more in cold weather as we've all experienced.
$5 at walmart is cheap insurance.

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