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Old 04-27-2014, 09:26 AM   #41
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I did the CHF on our 351 without using the hellwig extensions. If I level the coach manually I usually don't have any problem with the front tires coming off the ground unless I am parked un an extremely unlevel surface. The auto leveler always seems to lift the front end, and tires higher than necessary.

Without the hellwig extensions the sway bar does come in contact with the leaf springs as Al mentioned. For anyone considering this I'll attempt to show a pic of what he is talking about
Thanks CJ, a picture is worth a thousand words. I agree with the auto leveler always lifting the front end too much. I've recalibrated it several times, but it always does it. BTW, having the sway bar hit the leaf springs like that will not cause any damage. We typically have bad luck with sites being too low in the front and why we had to have the longer links. The other thing you can do, if you keep the stock links, is to have a bubble stick on level on the side wall inside by the driver's seat. You can tweak the level to let you know when the site will cause your front wheels off the ground. You can then throw some leveling blocks down and drive up on them and then level the coach.
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Old 04-27-2014, 02:44 PM   #42
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Thanks CJ, a picture is worth a thousand words. I agree with the auto leveler always lifting the front end too much. I've recalibrated it several times, but it always does it. BTW, having the sway bar hit the leaf springs like that will not cause any damage. We typically have bad luck with sites being too low in the front and why we had to have the longer links. The other thing you can do, if you keep the stock links, is to have a bubble stick on level on the side wall inside by the driver's seat. You can tweak the level to let you know when the site will cause your front wheels off the ground. You can then throw some leveling blocks down and drive up on them and then level the coach.
So I am understanding that only the front has leaf spring contact issues when leveling and if prefer that not to happen use the hellwig links. Is the rear ok with out the hellwig links and ok with the stock links? I also read some people only do the front. Looks like the hellwigs are +/- $100 a pair.
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Old 04-27-2014, 03:41 PM   #43
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So I am understanding that only the front has leaf spring contact issues when leveling and if prefer that not to happen use the hellwig links. Is the rear ok with out the hellwig links and ok with the stock links? I also read some people only do the front. Looks like the hellwigs are +/- $100 a pair.
Funny you should ask about only doing the front. I did only the front about six months ago and it made a big difference. It handled so much better that I didn't bother doing the rear until just yesterday. Doing the rear improved the handling even more but not as drastic a difference as doing the front did. That is my experience with my rig but I suppose a lot might depend on such things as how much weight one is carrying, tire pressure, and alignment. I did have a harder time getting the rear bolts out but after switching positions they went back in easier than the front did.
I have no problem with the rear hitting the leaf springs with no extensions. There is plenty of clearance on mine with the jacks down.
The front is easy enough to do that you could try it without the extensions just to see if you like it. If you are concerned about hitting the leaf springs you could always switch it back until you got the extensions. That way you wouldn't invest in the Hellwigs if the change did not make that much of a difference for you.
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Old 04-27-2014, 04:27 PM   #44
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So I am understanding that only the front has leaf spring contact issues when leveling and if prefer that not to happen use the hellwig links. Is the rear ok with out the hellwig links and ok with the stock links? I also read some people only do the front. Looks like the hellwigs are +/- $100 a pair.
By looking at your avatar you have the exact same coach as ours. If that's the case, once you do the front CHF you will not go back to stock. If you are like me and don't like half arsing anything then you'll want longer front links. To answer your question about the rear. The sway bar is totally different than the front one and there are no issues with doing the CHF. You can just move the end links and the sway bar will rotate around the pumpkin and will not interfere with the leaf springs. Besides, if it did you wouldn't want to do it because you never ever want the rear tires off the ground. The next best upgrade will be the rear Tiger Trak
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Old 04-27-2014, 09:02 PM   #45
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I just did my first significant drive with our new GT 328. 120 mile round trip, on I-10, the 605 and the 105 in Southern California, with a lot of traffic and rough surface on I-10 (605 fairly smooth, 105 very smooth, but the 105 freeway was built in the mid 80s). My unit handles really well in stock form. I can one hand it, between trucks, going 65-70 MPH, even on I-10. What symptoms are you guys getting that is causing you to need these mods? I had a little bit of hard time at first with a Fleetwood Flair 33v that I rented from El Monte RV, but that was when I was trying to line up the coach using the center bar on the windshield against the line on the right side of the lane. When I gave that up and just looked far down the lane instead, I quit over correcting the steering and had no more problems. Maybe I just got lucky and got a good unit.....
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Old 04-27-2014, 11:48 PM   #46
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I am experiencing the same with my 2014 351. No issues with sway and I am also able to one hand it most of the time. I am out of So Cal as well. I am reluctant to touch anything stock at this point.
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Old 04-27-2014, 11:52 PM   #47
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2014 328 CHF has anyone done this?

Scagsdale - did you purchase from Mike Thompsons?
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Old 04-28-2014, 12:29 AM   #48
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Yes, my GT 328 came from Mike Thompson.
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Old 04-28-2014, 07:54 AM   #49
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I remember driving ours, when it was totally stock, and if there was no wind it drove like any normal car. Now, the minute I hit one of those low curb side road dips, there it went. Also, not too many 18 wheelers will be passing me, if I was doing 65-70 MPH. If I kept it at 60, the 18 wheelers will push me to the curve side.

I think the difference is, at least in our area of travels, that we always have some form of wind going on and our roads here in OH are terrible due to ice and salt. The Cali folk need to come to this part of town to experience these conditions and then determine if you need to tweak your coach.
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Old 04-28-2014, 10:57 AM   #50
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I would agree with Al. We picked up our 2014 351 GT from Texas during spring break and we RV'd back home to GA, 850miles. I'd say I got a crash coarse in driving it. When we left Texas winds were steady 20-25mph with 35-40 mph gusts. Definitely two handed as the gusts hit I had to turn on the wheel into them. Came across I-20 most of the whole trip. Around Shreveport, Vicksburg or any big city, the road was really bad. I also noticed the rigs would push the coach some. Once got to AL-GA winds had died to 5-10mph for remainder of trip. Driving then was great, one handed most time. My opinion is coach handled decently well for the conditions. What I am looking for is to make it better! I want a tighter feel with not so much sway effect. I also want it to be safe as possible. CJ has a good point that you can try it, if no better affect then I'll go back to stock. If it improves as most say it does then I will spend the $100 bucks for the hellwigs and set it up right like Al mentioned, no half arse.
I think its all about making it comfortable, to each their own. Like everyone says, each coach handles a little different.
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