2014 351DS and 350TS XL and Residential Refrigerator: Battery/inverter setup - Page 3

Savannahdan · 08-06-2013, 04:49 PM

Called Forest River and was told that they install two series 27 Exide Batteries that should last 4 to 6 hours with the refrigerator running. The FR rep said she had received a lot of calls about this issue but they didn't plan on making any changes. I think this is terrible.

Falcon35 · 08-06-2013, 06:13 PM

Talked to a Georgetown factory rep. at the Frog Rally today. He told me four batteries were a factory option on the Georgetown.

Savannahdan · 08-06-2013, 07:29 PM

I'd love to get that reps name so when I go back to the dealer I can tell them they need to put in 4 series 27's. not sure how the would do it without adding a battery tray of some kind.

Falcon35 · 08-06-2013, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Savannahdan

I'd love to get that reps name so when I go back to the dealer I can tell them they need to put in 4 series 27's. not sure how the would do it without adding a battery tray of some kind.

He told me it was a factory option so they must add them at the factory. I'M sure that you would have to order it that way. Some dealers may start to order them that way for stock. Not everyone will want the extra batteries if they always go to places with full hookups.

Trempert · 08-06-2013, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Falcon35

He told me it was a factory option so they must add them at the factory. I'M sure that you would have to order it that way. Some dealers may start to order them that way for stock. Not everyone will want the extra batteries if they always go to places with full hookups.

Something tells me I should be very happy with my propane fridge. It will run over a week without plugging in. When I pick up the RV the day before a trip I turn it on, pull the RV to the house, and when I get up the next morning it is ready for food.

Falcon35 · 08-06-2013, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Savannahdan

I'd love to get that reps name so when I go back to the dealer I can tell them they need to put in 4 series 27's. not sure how the would do it without adding a battery tray of some kind.

He told me it was a factory option so they must add them at the factory. I'M sure that you would have to order it that way. Some dealers may start to order them that way for stock. Not everyone will want the extra batteries if they always go to places with full hookups.

louigi · 08-23-2013, 06:32 PM

Well I picked up the MH from the dealer today and found out why the inverter for the domestic fridge was not working. Seems that on the back of the remote switch ( by the entry door ) there is an ignition lockout switch. They flipped the lockout switch, and BINGO it works! The main TV cable had to be replaced as a screw was driven thru it somewhere. ( we were getting fuzzy pictures ).

All is well.

stoyles1 · 03-03-2014, 02:31 PM

So the whole residential fridge option really got me thinking that for my weekend warrior use, its not really the best option. Two weeks ago I ordered a 2014 35QBA (close between the 35QBA and the 352QS) which has a propane/electric fridge. That should work fine but those residential fridges look great. It seems that no gasser mh right now has the amount of batteries everyone wants... Even my Tiffin only has two under the step...

sherman12 · 03-03-2014, 06:20 PM

I don't know a lot about the many types of class A's out there, but it seems to me the whole residential fridge thing started out with higher end DP's that have at least 4 six volts and an auto switch that'll start the genny's if the battery bank is about to run dead. To put them in less expensive gas rigs with 2 12 volt and no transfer doesn't seem right. I can see that they could offered as an option for those that understand their needs. However, an option that will cost the mfg. a lot less money to install vs. the old stand by propane/gas combo? So is this a question of cheapening the rigs and telling the consumer it's better, or, a safety issue because of propane fridge fires, or somewhere in between?

43D18 · 03-03-2014, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sherman12

I don't know a lot about the many types of class A's out there, but it seems to me the whole residential fridge thing started out with higher end DP's that have at least 4 six volts and an auto switch that'll start the genny's if the battery bank is about to run dead. To put them in less expensive gas rigs with 2 12 volt and no transfer doesn't seem right. I can see that they could offered as an option for those that understand their needs. However, an option that will cost the mfg. a lot less money to install vs. the old stand by propane/gas combo? So is this a question of cheapening the rigs and telling the consumer it's better, or, a safety issue because of propane fridge fires, or somewhere in between?

Our Georgetown with the residential fridge has an auto transfer switch, and I'm guessing that all class A's w/ a residential fridge do as well. I'm not sure that installing a residential fridge is "cheapening" the unit. The cost of a 22 cf residential unit is surely more than a traditional gas absorption unit. Also, FWIW, our until will run approx. 24 hours on fully charged batteries before they need a charge.

VinceU · 03-03-2014, 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sherman12

I don't know a lot about the many types of class A's out there, but it seems to me the whole residential fridge thing started out with higher end DP's that have at least 4 six volts and an auto switch that'll start the genny's if the battery bank is about to run dead. To put them in less expensive gas rigs with 2 12 volt and no transfer doesn't seem right. I can see that they could offered as an option for those that understand their needs. However, an option that will cost the mfg. a lot less money to install vs. the old stand by propane/gas combo? So is this a question of cheapening the rigs and telling the consumer it's better, or, a safety issue because of propane fridge fires, or somewhere in between?

The dual power fridge in my Geogetown retailed for 7K+. A nice res with twice the cubic storage is about $2200. Add a battery or two who wins? Not to mention the cooling capacity for 110 VAC unit far exeeds the propane unit.

43D18 · 03-03-2014, 10:36 PM

$7k for a fridge?!!! Holy cow, does it have a flat panel TV on it too?! I can't fathom a traditional gas absorption fridge running more than $1500-ish. Maybe I'm clueless on refer costs.

VinceU · 03-03-2014, 10:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 43D18

$7k for a fridge?!!! Holy cow, does it have a flat panel TV on it too?! I can't fathom a traditional gas absorption fridge running more than $1500-ish. Maybe I'm clueless on refer costs.

Nope, but it has 4 doors and a icecuber that takes half the freezer space!

alparmer · 03-04-2014, 08:12 AM

We were exactly where you are between the 351 and 350, but when DW saw the bunkbeds for the kids she had to have the 351. When the kids no longer camp with us we'll definitely get the 350.

While on the road you have two options with the residential fridge. One, press the remote button to turn the inverter on and you will always have power as long as the engine is running. Two, run the generator and you will have power to everything including one AC for those hot summer days. As far as running the gen while on the road, the cost is minimal.

Yes, the inverter is dedicated to the refrigerator only, but the inverter itself has two 110 outputs. I'm going to run an extension from the inverter to one of the plugs inside the coach to use it for low power consumption items.

If we had to boondock, ideally we would run the generator as needed. If noise is a concern then you have no choice but run the fridge on batts which should last a long while since the compressor is not constantly on. The inverter is programmed to stop working when a low power level is detected so you will not damage the batteries. We installed a voltmeter to give us an idea on the batteries.

sherman12 · 03-04-2014, 09:26 AM

43D18, I don't mean an "auto transfer switch" in the sense that you manually start your generator, either by dash switch or on the genny itself and the power switching over to 110AC from 12V. Most, if not all class A's have those today (though my 2011 GT does not, I have to plug the 50A power cord into an outlet in the power bay). Higher end rigs will have a low battery warning that will start the generator, whether heading down the highway or dry camping without any input from the operator/owner to recharge the battery bank. I don't believe your rig is so equipped. In addition, just reading this thread most GT owners have stated they get about 4 to 6 hours of run time on battery only power with the fridge on before manually having to start the generator. If you get 24hrs., I'm sure alot of GT owners will want to contact you. One poster even stated a quote from Forest River stating that to be the target range they determined when designing the newer rigs with the residential fridge. In addition, as VinceU has correctly stated, absorption fridges do cost considerably more than residential fridges, and I base this on a recent class A review in MotorHome Magazine reviewing the new growing large class A market in the $65K-$90K range and 26-30 feet using residential fridges to keep the production and retail costs lower.

cjd10 · 03-04-2014, 03:45 PM

Just as a test a few months back I left the electric refridgerator on battery power overnight to see how long it would run. After 12 hours the monitor was showing down to 1/3 on battery level. That was at night, (cool outside) with nothing else on. Didn't push it any further as I didn't want to run the battery's all the way down. Could have run it a little longer but still nowhere near the couple of days our salesman told us. We don't boondocks much so it's not an issue for us.

Savannahdan · 03-04-2014, 09:56 PM

Those of you stating you are getting 12 to 24 hours running the ref, I'd like to know how many batteries, what kind, and if it was an option. If it's the same set up as mine, I want to know what I'm doing differently so I can get mine to last that long. I have two 12 volt 27 series interstate batteries which are standard according to the Forest River rep I talked with on the phone.

alparmer · 03-05-2014, 07:44 AM

The stock two 12v batteries that FR uses. No markings as far as I can see. Not sure if was an option, ours came with it.

VinceU · 03-05-2014, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Savannahdan

Those of you stating you are getting 12 to 24 hours running the ref, I'd like to know how many batteries, what kind, and if it was an option. If it's the same set up as mine, I want to know what I'm doing differently so I can get mine to last that long. I have two 12 volt 27 series interstate batteries which are standard according to the Forest River rep I talked with on the phone.

You can reduce battery load by reducing number of door openings and shorter time open. Also raise box and freezer temps to upper safe limit. Only ice cream likes -4F temps. You should save a bunch of energy this way, thus more time on batteries.

cjd10 · 03-05-2014, 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alparmmer

The stock two 12v batteries that FR uses. No markings as far as I can see. Not sure if was an option, ours came with it.

Have to assume I have same battery's as Al as our rigs are about the same age and setup. Ours is in for warranty so can't confirm battery brand right now

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