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Old 05-10-2018, 09:52 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by dbledan View Post
I did this on my TV...best way to connect for an inverter was this because of higher current draw. Could go up to 30A and also holds the original fuse.

SpyTec Hardwire Mini Blade Fuse Add-A-Circuit Fuse Holder for A119 | A119S | Mobius | A118C | GIT2 | Dash Camera Hardwire Kits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPH1GW3..._NTe9AbXGB0DBQ

This way I just went in with a simple test light and the ignition off to see which fuse did not have power. Then tested again with the ignition on to make sure it worked.

You may also want to check online for your chassis to see if there is a fuse block diagram.

Hope that helps you. Good luck!


I agree and that’s what I’m going to do as well! As a temp fix for the bedroom tv I installed a small 300watt inverter that I had already behind the tv so we didn’t have to run the gen just to watch tv at night while boondocking!
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Old 05-10-2018, 10:02 AM   #22
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That's a Xantrex Prowatt 1000 with remote switch. My coach has a residential reefer with a Xantrex 2000 watt inverter and I wanted a backup in case of difficulty. I used the Xantrex transfer switch but I would recommend the Kisae brand switch since it has built in strain reliefs for directly connecting the Romex from the panel and to the load, eliminating the octagonal steel box that I had to use.

Sure we can be perfectionists and look at the wiring from the converter to the bank, which is only #6 or #8. Someday I may rewire that with something a little bigger since it is such a long run to the batteies, but not for the inverter but rather to eliminate the .75 volt voltage drop when trying to recharge from the generator. However, never had a problem. I did add the PD Charge Wizard pendant so that I can force it into boost when I run the genny.

As far as not having a plug over the drivers seat, you can snake the wire inside the cap by removing the back trim in the center compartment. Mine was stapled in with trim. It is supposed to be screwed and it is a double piece of material. When you get the first piece out, you will see a pretty jagged hole behind it. Drill a hole in the drivers side compartment and reach in and snake it over to the passenger side and plug it in...or, put a plug in the back of the driver's side compartment.

I spent a long time trying to snake down the passenger side trim...not that easy since it is behind the blower and heater section.

Step motor...been there...done that too!
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Old 05-10-2018, 12:40 PM   #23
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I would not use the radio wire. You can go to the fuse box under the dash and add another fuse to a fuse already there, what I would be concerned about is the amps , I don't think the radio wire carries the amps needed.
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Old 05-10-2018, 02:10 PM   #24
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As I have posted a few times, my ENTIRE RV runs 24/7 off the inverter. I only start the gen to charge the battery bank and daytime (only) in FL if there is a need for non-stop lousy RV Air Conditioning. The Air Conditioning runs all night on the batteries via inverter.
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Old 05-10-2018, 09:44 PM   #25
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As I have posted a few times, my ENTIRE RV runs 24/7 off the inverter. I only start the gen to charge the battery bank and daytime (only) in FL if there is a need for non-stop lousy RV Air Conditioning. The Air Conditioning runs all night on the batteries via inverter.
Holy cow man that’s an awesome setup! It would definitely be cool to eventually get somewhere close to the ballpark you are in but I need to start by installing the inverter and 300-400 watts of solar first.. oh and I need to get some better batteries also! You did one heck of a job there!
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Old 05-11-2018, 06:26 AM   #26
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Holy cow man that’s an awesome setup! It would definitely be cool to eventually get somewhere close to the ballpark you are in but I need to start by installing the inverter and 300-400 watts of solar first.. oh and I need to get some better batteries also! You did one heck of a job there!
Thank You. Forgot to post Solar. Most would never spend what this setup cost - apx 7-8 times Chinese pricing, but so outperforms and will last 20+ years. The solar panels are German made and I fabricated the frames that bolt together in 5-10 minutes start to connection.


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Old 05-11-2018, 06:38 AM   #27
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Thank You. Forgot to post Solar. Most would never spend what this setup cost - apx 7-8 times Chinese pricing, but so outperforms and will last 20+ years. The solar panels are German made and I fabricated the frames that bolt together in 5-10 minutes start to connection.


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Nice!!! There’s nothing wrong with buying quality and at the end of the day it’s your coach and your money! I say it looks good and if I were going to hire someone to build me a system like that your name would be at the top of my list!!
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Old 05-11-2018, 08:41 AM   #28
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I added two USB power points on my dash and ran the wiring straight to the battery in the front of the coach. It has power 24/7 regardless of if the key is on.
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