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10-15-2018, 09:17 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 188
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AC compressor on chassis went out, safe to drive??
Hi all, the ac compressor for the dash air on our 2012 Georgetown 280ds (2011 chassis) which has been leaking oil from the compressor for about 5months now went out on our way home from Branson MO last week, we were on the interstate when I noticed the air from the vents started getting warmer and warmer.. not a huge deal as I can run the big ac if needed..
I went out to the RV yesterday and started it up and it seems the compressor is making a grinding noise and the ac switch on the dash is off. Is it safe to drive the RV? I have a new compressor on order and the repair shop is roughly 10 miles from my home.
Thanks for the advice!
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10-15-2018, 09:28 AM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 60
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If it locks up or the bearing comes apart, then your belt comes off and you lose power steering and power brakes if your brake system is hydro boost.
Wherever this happens is were you will be stranded. No one can tell when this will happen. Can you make it to the repair shop ? Not sure but if you try make sure you have a back up plan just in case. Hopefully you can make there as I am sure a wrecker fee is pretty expensive. Do you have towing insurance for break downs?
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10-15-2018, 09:35 AM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Southwest Alabama
Posts: 9,850
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I can't remember if the A/C compressor on that unit is driven by the serpentine belt or if it has a dedicated belt (a lot of units use a dedicated belt so a bad A/C compressor doesn't shut you down), but if it has a dedicated belt then it's fine to drive it. If it's driven by the serpentine belt, then I'd follow whitewinghunter's advice and have a backup plan ready to go in case.
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10-15-2018, 09:52 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitewinghunter
If it locks up or the bearing comes apart, then your belt comes off and you lose power steering and power brakes if your brake system is hydro boost.
Wherever this happens is were you will be stranded. No one can tell when this will happen. Can you make it to the repair shop ? Not sure but if you try make sure you have a back up plan just in case. Hopefully you can make there as I am sure a wrecker fee is pretty expensive. Do you have towing insurance for break downs?
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That’s what I was afraid of.. thanks for the input and yes we have towing insurance and road side assistance through fmca.
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10-15-2018, 09:53 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Central Illinois
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[QUOTE=Bama Rambler;1950372]I can't remember if the A/C compressor on that unit is driven by the serpentine belt or if it has a dedicated belt (a lot of units use a dedicated belt so a bad A/C compressor doesn't shut you down), but if it has a dedicated belt then it's fine to drive it. If it's driven by the serpentine belt, then I'd follow whitewinghunter's advice and have a backup plan ready to go in case.[/
Only one belt for the whole engine..
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10-15-2018, 10:06 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Central Illinois
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Really thought about buying the ac bypass pulley and installing it myself.. $30 sounded a lot better than $750 but the wife wanted the dash ac... just my luck
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10-15-2018, 01:34 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mount Laurel, New Jersey
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Sounds like it could be the clutch since with the switch off its making a grinding noise. Try and disconnect the wire to the compressor. It may/not make a difference.
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10-15-2018, 01:59 PM
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#8
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Just as confused as you
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: south central Wisconsin
Posts: 5,108
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Are you sure the a/c compressor is bad or is it the compressor clutch? That's the first thing I thought of when you said it is making a grinding noise. The compressor pulley is a clutch and is electromagnetic, it should turn on and off as the a/c calls for cooling. Turn off the a/c and run the engine at an idle while observing the pulley. It should turn without any noise if it is good, if it is going bad it will make a grinding noise. With the engine and ignition off you can take the belt loose and turn the compressor clutch by hand. If it turns hard, not at all, or you feel it catching as it turns then it's the clutch. If you disconnect the wire it will still grind if the clutch is bad. The clutch should turn free when the a/c is not operating. You used to be able to change just the clutch but I'm not sure since most things are throw-a-way now days.
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10-15-2018, 02:33 PM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,695
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You might can call the dealer or chassis manufacturer to confirm, but on some stuff they will have two serpentine belts depending on if you have air conditioning or not.
If they do, you may can buy the belt for the non a/c model and bypass the air conditioning pulley on yours.
I've done that a few times on the smaller trucks, and it's that way currently on my Cummins, when I had the bearings lock up this summer on my a/c.
Just trying to give you some ideas to explore
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10-15-2018, 02:47 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Eastern Ontario
Posts: 4,167
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I believe that when checking the compressor in the off position, you have to make sure it is not on the defrost (windshield) setting otherwise the compressor clutch will engage. Try it again and see if making noise.
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10-15-2018, 02:54 PM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,695
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Here is a schematic example of what I was trying to state in the previous post. If your a/c is in a way that can be bypassed like this example of my truck is, you can get the serpentine belt for the non a/c option, then possibly reroute it to bypass the a/c so you can drive it
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A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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10-15-2018, 03:19 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 7,916
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Many aren't as simple as "buy the belt w/o a/c). The configuration is different on many. The add on pulley deal sounded like a good deal if "allowable". Good luck with your adventure.
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10-19-2018, 10:33 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Dandridge,TN
Posts: 614
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why not just buy a reman compressor and replace the receiver dryer and have it installed by a independent repair shop? cost will be a 1/3 of what you are saying check e bay I have got many good compressors from them never never had a problem with any I got from them.
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10-20-2018, 04:58 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 188
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First off thanks for all the help and input ove4 the last few days, I’ve been away and unable to respond but I ordered a new oem compressor and replaced it. I checked the system and know Freon was in the system so that would explain why it quit cooling so I figured I’d go ahead and replace the unit myself.. simple 45min job! The seal on the old compressor was shot and leaking oil and yes and several have mentioned the clutch pulley was the cause of the noise but all good now. On Monday a shop will replace the dryer and flush and recharge the system! In total the job will have cost $283 for the ford oem compressor and the shop is quoting $200 for the recharge, so not to bad considering I’ve read prices ranging from $500 to 2000 on the forums.
Also the Freon had leaked out because the low pressure line was completely loose at the compressor!
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