Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-14-2012, 02:42 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
nemo45's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Arlington, WI
Posts: 229
Send a message via MSN to nemo45 Send a message via Yahoo to nemo45
amber clearance lights

I had water get into one of my amber clearance lights over the cab and found that two of the lenses were cracked. One so bad that when I removed it, it broke in two. The result is that all of the amber lights over the cab do not work. I'm thinking blown fuse. But, I'm confused, all of the other clearance and running lights work. Including the red ones at the top of the rear end. Are these amber ones on a different fuse? And since I'm 6'2" and 300 lbs., anyone have an idea which fuse it would be? So, I don't have to lay in that little bitty space under the steering wheel for an hour or so pulling each fuse to find the blown one. I can't figure out by the fuse list which one it would be, but there are several listed as body builder fuses. Please help needed. I just talked with the service department at my dealer and they told me it would be in the fuse box under the hood. I really don't see how this could be because these are high current fuses for whole systems.
__________________

__________________
Don & Carol Niemeyer and Sandy
2006 Gulf Stream Tour Master Diesel Pusher
2011 Chevy Equinox Toad
nemo45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2012, 07:19 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Lund
Posts: 156
The wiring diagrams I have show how Forest River tied all the headlights, foglights, turn signals and running lights into a standard Ford headlights wiring harness pigtail. It does not however then show how Ford broke out their side of the harness into their fuse panel. However as the interface for all is into the Ford harness it should be fused in that panel in the front engine compartment. I'd start with a run through looking for blown fuses.

The diagrams does show that the roof markers share the same pin in the harness as the left and right side markers. So if your front side marker lights are working you know the problem is not with the fuse but with the wiring to the upper markers or more likely the bulb holders.

I'll try to buy a scanner soon so I can post these.
__________________

__________________
SinkorSwim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2012, 08:25 PM   #3
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 63
Nemo, My 373 is a 2007 so they may have changed but the first picture in my other post shows the connector where the Ford wiring hooks into the builders pigtail. On mine they are all labeled. Now I do not have a wire diagram so you would have to look at where the wire looms run looking for one that heads up for one of the "A" posts. In my case I think one of the pins in the connector had lost contact.

Ian, If you take the diagrams to the local library they may be able to scan it to a flash drive for you or direct up to the site. Wiring diagrams make it so much easier.
__________________
2007 Georgetown 373
Nutmeg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2012, 10:23 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
nemo45's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Arlington, WI
Posts: 229
Send a message via MSN to nemo45 Send a message via Yahoo to nemo45
Well, I went outside tonight after it was completely dark after turning on the headlights. The front amber lights are all out, not even a glimmer. All the rest are working. I'm stumped. I guess I'll start removing all the bases and see what I find underneath them. There is one, the one that had water in it, that the screws are really rusted on and there is rust on the rest of the metal inside. I'm thinking because there isn't a fuse blown it has to be a problem with the ground on one or all of the lights.
__________________
Don & Carol Niemeyer and Sandy
2006 Gulf Stream Tour Master Diesel Pusher
2011 Chevy Equinox Toad
nemo45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2012, 12:01 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Iggy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Desert SW - Arizona
Posts: 6,360
Quote:
Originally Posted by nemo45 View Post
Well, I went outside tonight after it was completely dark after turning on the headlights. The front amber lights are all out, not even a glimmer. All the rest are working. I'm stumped. I guess I'll start removing all the bases and see what I find underneath them. There is one, the one that had water in it, that the screws are really rusted on and there is rust on the rest of the metal inside. I'm thinking because there isn't a fuse blown it has to be a problem with the ground on one or all of the lights.

You lost your ground wire like it was said earlier.
You verified that you have 12 volts so start looking on chassis grounding points. I suspect you will find on wire hanging loose.
Probably up from in the engine compartment area.
__________________
2012 Georgetown XL - 378TS 60,000 miles
Life is a journey, not a destination !

Iggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2012, 03:56 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
nemo45's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Arlington, WI
Posts: 229
Send a message via MSN to nemo45 Send a message via Yahoo to nemo45
Could it be because of the corroded and rusted light base itself? I haven't found any dangling wires. Don't know why if its the light base, why all the rest of them would be out.
__________________
Don & Carol Niemeyer and Sandy
2006 Gulf Stream Tour Master Diesel Pusher
2011 Chevy Equinox Toad
nemo45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2012, 04:01 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Iggy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Desert SW - Arizona
Posts: 6,360
Quote:
Originally Posted by nemo45 View Post
Could it be because of the corroded and rusted light base itself? I haven't found any dangling wires. Don't know why if its the light base, why all the rest of them would be out.

Yes the rust can do it.
If you have 12 volt postive power at the marker lights you can take a wire from the chassis itself and take it up to each marker light and touch the ground side of the socket. This should make th elight work if you lost your common ground wire. You must make sure you know which side is ground and which side is the hot wire.

I would remove the whole marker socket and get 2 clean wires and test with meter first.



Good luck
__________________
2012 Georgetown XL - 378TS 60,000 miles
Life is a journey, not a destination !

Iggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2012, 08:09 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
nemo45's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Arlington, WI
Posts: 229
Send a message via MSN to nemo45 Send a message via Yahoo to nemo45
Ok, here is what I just did. I turned on the light switch went outside and hooked my tester to the negative pole on the battery and went up and checked the wires on each light. The red wire on each light was hot. But I couldn't find any hanging wire in the engine compartment and the ground wires I found were connected securely. i'm sure if I run a wire from the frame to ground wire on a light they'll all lite up.
__________________
Don & Carol Niemeyer and Sandy
2006 Gulf Stream Tour Master Diesel Pusher
2011 Chevy Equinox Toad
nemo45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2012, 11:30 PM   #9
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 63
So you have confirmed a ground problem. Are the connections T'ed on the fixture or separate behind the fixture with a single feed to the fixture? If the corroded light is the first in the direction of feed and the grounds are t'ed on the fixture itself the problem could be right at that fixture. ie the ground wire is good at ground point until it gets to the corrosion on the fixture wire connection. You can use an ohm meter between the negitive terminal or your test light this time on the positive terminal, to look for a wire with a good ground. With the circuit de-energizied (light swith off)of course
__________________
2007 Georgetown 373
Nutmeg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2012, 09:12 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
nemo45's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Arlington, WI
Posts: 229
Send a message via MSN to nemo45 Send a message via Yahoo to nemo45
After further inspection the fixture isn't all that corroded. Its just the screws that hold the fixture to the fiberglass body that were rusted. There is a hot wire and ground wire going to each fixture of course, because there is no metal body or fram up there to ground to. I can't see what's going on behind the small 1/4" hole they go thru. I'm going to run a wire from the frame to one of the light ground wires and see if they all or some of them light up. I imagine the grounds are all connected. I also imagine the the ground wire goes thru one of the windshield side post covers inside the motorhome to get to the top of the cabfrom someplace on the frame. I'm trying to find out from FR just where the lights are grounded to.
__________________

__________________
Don & Carol Niemeyer and Sandy
2006 Gulf Stream Tour Master Diesel Pusher
2011 Chevy Equinox Toad
nemo45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:48 AM.