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Old 09-21-2015, 10:05 AM   #21
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 268
Heated hose

I made my own heated hose, using heat tape wrapped along the length of the hose, then covered with rubbery pipe insulation (not the stiff foam, but a much softer form, that I found at Lowe's). Once sealed, and properly set up, the hose never froze. I also insulated the stand pipe, and put a short heat tape (Heat tape is used to line the eaves in snowy country to prevent ice dams) on it. Everything ran tot he power pole, at the 20 amp plug.
Works great, and never had a freeze. Used it down to 20 degrees, but never had to use it below zero.
While people were out with their hair dryers trying to break loose their hoses, I was enjoying a shower.

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Old 09-21-2015, 04:44 PM   #22
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 543
Don't get a heated hose. Two years ago, I was at a campground when overnight temps got down to 18F. Another RV owner left his hydrant turned on overnight and the riser pipe froze. When things thawed out after sunrise, the riser pipe turned into a lawn sprinkler and the below ground valve was broken. The RV owner was billed for the $1k repair job. (Commercial plumber, Winter emergency repair, frozen ground, etc.) I use water from the fresh water tank all the time and refill it from the RV park's hydrant just before leaving, usually late morning when it's warmed up a bit.

I have a 2011 Georgetown with arctic pack (a joke). There's no heat in the fresh water tank compartment other than leakage heat from the hot water heater. Two heating ducts run through the compartment but they're insulated and provide little heat. I made a number of modifications to the unit that make it usable below freezing.

1. The two low point drain lines were cut inside the compartment and ball valves installed. This leaves the portion of the drains that goes outside the compartment dry when not being used.
2. A 110VAC electric outlet was installed in the plumbing compartment and a 300W gutter heater strip was installed. The heating strip is zip tied to all of the pipes with multiple wraps around the water filter and the impeller portion of the water pump. This strip came with its own thermostat and I installed a shutoff switch inside the RV.

The plumbing compartment heater strip is fed from shore power or the 1kw inverter I had installed when I bought the RV to run the fridge while driving. When travelling during cold weather, I always stay at RV parks at night so I have shore power available. When driving, the 175A alternator provides all the power that the inverter needs and still keeps the batteries fully charged.


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Old 09-21-2015, 05:14 PM   #23
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Anacortes, WA
Posts: 1,167
On our '02 GT325, the "Artic Pack" consisted of two small resistance heater pads stuck on the bottom outside surface of the black and grey tanks. They each drew 7 amps from the house batteries and had built-in t/stats that switched on at 40F and off at 64F.

I had two concerns. One was pushing that much power into about 6" x 3" of a plastic tank if they heaters came on while it was empty. The other was pulling 28 amps out of the house batteries for an extended time.

I disconnected the system, since we never camped in freezing weather. I put a placard on the cabinet where the swich was to indicate the system was INOP when we sold the rig.

Frank and Eileen
No longer RVers or FR owners
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