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Old 11-20-2011, 08:55 PM   #1
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Artic Pack Problem

I recently purchased a 2005 Georgetown 350ts. I was using the artic pack when all of a sudden it stoped working. I have checked the fuse and it seems to be ok. What do I need to do next?
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Old 11-20-2011, 09:21 PM   #2
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Just so we're clear, are you referring to the tank heaters when you say 'artic pack'?

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Old 11-20-2011, 11:31 PM   #3
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Pack all of your things and drive as fast as you can to either Arizona or southern Florida. Sorry,I couldnt resist. I wish I could help you out but I havent used the feature yet. The good news is this forum is packed plum full of experienced and friendly folks.
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Old 11-20-2011, 11:44 PM   #4
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What are you referring to, and what makes you think it isn't working? Where are you, what is the temp, what are your symptoms? As a tech, you wouldn't believe the people that are now wanting us to find an air conditioner leak, temp outside 45 Fahrenheit. We can't even get a compressor to come on, much less find a leak. Oh yea, and while you have have it, winterize it. Kind of trying to check a furnace in July, ain't happening.
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Old 11-21-2011, 10:57 AM   #5
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The heaters should come on at 40F and go off at 65F. Those temps are as sensed by a thermostat embedded in the pads. If the tank contents are warmer than 40 degrees, the elements don't switch on.

I wonder about the damage they could cause if the tanks were empty. Since I don't like the idea of heating up the black tanks to 65 degrees, I don't use the system. We bought the rig used and the "Arctic Pack" was part of the configuration.
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Old 11-21-2011, 05:16 PM   #6
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Man I live in a cold climate and I wouldn't even think of turning those puppies on until around the 25F temp range..
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Old 11-21-2011, 11:34 PM   #7
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I have read that the reason they say don't use the Arctic Pack if the tanks are empty is that they will push tank gas into the unit. I am not sure they will do damage to the unit itself. If the heating elements get hot they will simply shut off.
At least that is what i read into the instructions.
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Old 11-22-2011, 06:58 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Rongrice View Post
I have read that the reason they say don't use the Arctic Pack if the tanks are empty is that they will push tank gas into the unit. I am not sure they will do damage to the unit itself. If the heating elements get hot they will simply shut off.
At least that is what i read into the instructions.
Not sure how a heating pad would push tank gas into the unit when the tanks are already vented to outside.
If that was the case when it hits 90 degrees outside for a few days or weeks the same situation would exist. Can't figure how someone would think this would happen???
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Old 11-24-2011, 08:57 PM   #9
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Ok just told someone else the same thing on a diff problem the switch can go bad so try and replace this first if all fuses are good. Anything more extensive then that take it to a service department.
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:59 PM   #10
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The indicator light has gone out nad it is headed to 24 degrees tonight. I have been checking breakers and fuses. So far no luck. emp is already lpw enough it should be on.
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Old 11-29-2011, 09:00 PM   #11
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Going to be 24 tonight colder tomorow night. Think I might need them.
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Old 11-30-2011, 07:55 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wichitalineman View Post
The indicator light has gone out nad it is headed to 24 degrees tonight. I have been checking breakers and fuses. So far no luck. emp is already lpw enough it should be on.
The indicator light is just to show that power has been enabled to the heating pads. It doesn't show when they are working and when they aren't. Most likely the bulb burned out but the circuit is still live. The heating pads will turn on and off from the enbedded t-stats to each heating pad. Mine burned out and I just replaced the switch so the light shows the circuit is turned on.

Sigma A1 Series Rocker Switches.pdf

I found a replacement on ebay. I used the amber color so I could tell the difference at night whether I had the water pump on (red) or the heating pads on (amber). I used the A1-37 Switch.

Most RV Dealers will have this switch. Just be sure not to get a 120 Volt switch. They all look the same but on the side the voltage should read 12 volts.
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Old 12-01-2011, 09:16 PM   #13
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ly Gotit Fixsd. After lots of searching and Testing it was the switch. Simple and cheap fix thank goodness. Thanks for everyones help.
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Old 02-13-2012, 04:46 PM   #14
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My Artic Pak kept blowing the fuse and with no real pattern. It tuned out the wiring
that ran under my furnace wore thru and grounded out. It also ruined my
LP gas detector.
Why would you run cables under a furnace?
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Old 02-13-2012, 07:00 PM   #15
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My Artic Pak kept blowing the fuse and with no real pattern. It tuned out the wiring
that ran under my furnace wore thru and grounded out. It also ruined my
LP gas detector.
Why would you run cables under a furnace?
Good question. I had a circuit go out to the right side of my coach. I literally took it apart trying to find a break in the wire. I opened every junction box I could find and checked all of the connections. I could plug the wires into an extension cord and they worked but the main feed from the panel to a burried in the floor junction box was broke in the box. I could never find it. I ended up running a new feed from the panel to under the bed and made a connection there. Everything works now and I disconnected the old wire and wire nutted it off in a box behind the panel. I was really surprised to find very little clamps holding the wire in place. Considering a residential house doesn't roll down the road but there are codes that require a clamp or staple to hold the wires. Most of what I came across had plenty of slack and could move all over the place. They are now secured after I fixed the broken feed.
We had a similar problem with the coaxial cables from the rear to the front being shorted and one broke somewhere. Ended up running new cables there as well after the dealer said it was fixed and it wasn't.
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