Ok, I'm at wits end with this 2013 XL, the transfer switch drops out at random while running generator, the only thing powered up at the time was 1 front a/c unit and the refrigerator. I was rolling about 5 mph, switch kicks out, a/c kicks out and then the transfer switch rapidly thumps as it tries to re-engage, so I have to stop, turn off a/c, let the transfer switch pull back in and then turn a/c back on. I have been fighting this issue since new, 16K miles, I've replaced the tranfer switch with a new one exactly like what it originally came with, that did not fix issue, I just serviced unit 2 days ago with 15w40 oil / 2 qrts. New air and fuel filters. Rv service center looked at this issue with no fix, Cummings southern plains has checked the generator, no issue there. I'm just tired of the issue,
Any recommendations for a different brand of transfer switch? Unit currently uses a Furrion brand.
2013 Georgetown XL 350
Bunkhouse
2002 F250 4X4 CC
2012 Jeep Liberty
I would first look at the transfer switch logic, the time delay and the relay itself...but that can't be the problem since you changed all of that when you replaced the transfer switch. Has this ever happened when not moving? If not and you use your genny for extended periods while stationary, that might indicate a "shaky" connection between the generator and the switch (if the genny itself does not have a bad connection somewhere which causes it's output to drop out.) What you need to find out is if the ac output of the generator was the first to drop, or the wiring to the switch has caused this problem. Now, all this being said, there isn't anything between the two except a length of wire! I am concerned that you seem to indicate that the switch chatters after this happens which might be the AC compressor high draw as it tries to start up with high head pressure. I would ask the transfer switch vendor how the switch could actually chatter since if it thinks that it has lost the feed from the generator it should drop out and wait a time delay before it tries to re-connect, although if the interruption is very quick perhaps the time delay didn't reset. I really would take a look at other possibilities since I have never had a transfer switch fail and you just can't be that unlucky to have lost two in 16,000 miles TO EXACTLY THE SAME SYMPTOM.
I have the same problem.
Driving me crazy. Been doing it since new, the dealer never gets it to repeat the issue. I run just one AC too and does not jump as much, should be able to run under full load as designed
My Georgetown does not have a transfer switch for the generator. Instead, there is a 50 amp campground outlet installed in the cord storage compartment that is connected to the generator. When I leave a campground, the big power cord is simply plugged into the outlet. If I want to use the generator, it's ready to go. Works every time...
My Georgetown does not have a transfer switch for the generator. Instead, there is a 50 amp campground outlet installed in the cord storage compartment that is connected to the generator. When I leave a campground, the big power cord is simply plugged into the outlet. If I want to use the generator, it's ready to go. Works every time...
Is there a brand name on said device? I'm definitely looking for a resolution....
2013 Georgetown XL 350
Bunkhouse
2002 F250 4X4 CC
2012 Jeep Liberty
Is there a brand name on said device? I'm definitely looking for a resolution....
It's just a regular 50 amp RV outlet like the type you find on a campground pedestal. It is installed in a surface mount electrical box. They sell these parts at Home Depot, Lowes, etc. An electrician should be able to remove the transfer switch and install the 50 amp outlet. As far as I know, on my Georgetown, it was installed this way at the factory.
I later added the Progressive Industries EMS surge protector also seen in the photo.
Dijoeboss I had mine failed like your within a few months of picking it up new at the dealer.
The dealer installed ATS-501 model for my 50 amp service and has worked flawlessly over the past 4 years.
They all are similar in the way they work.
Mine has plug in relays instead of open contacts.
I have the ATS 503 50amp unit with fixed relays and no problems. I replaced the metal front with a Lexan cover so I could see what was going on during switching. I just nosey!
__________________ Aviator Wright Flyer #1919
Army Pathfinder Vietnam, 3 tours
DAV, MOPH, VFW, NRA, 1stCav. ABN
I would think there has to be something in the system to change from generator to shore power even though there is a 50 amp plug box in your Rv
2013 Georgetown XL 350
Bunkhouse
2002 F250 4X4 CC
2012 Jeep Liberty
I used to have the same set up in my old Georgetown.
1. the Generator supplies power to the plug, so when you plug into it you are powering the entire RV via the power cord.
2. when you have shore power, you unplug from the outlet in the power area and plug into the pedestal. and the RV is powered via the power cord. if you happen to turn on the generator it isn't going to change anything, because the cord is not plugged into the outlet.
__________________ 2014 Georgetown XL 352QS 2013-2019 Days Camped-502
Dijoeboss, mine has done the same thing
It has kicked off when I am driving show, backing up and hot a small bump
It does not switch back on until I turn off the ac's.
I think mine is the furion brand
The solenoids on the inside are the open air type.
Doesn't happen much so I have lived with it
If you find a solution please post it.
I should also point out that mine does the same thing on my current RV when I run both A/C's and the HW heater is set for Electric. it is not consistent, but with the HW heater, 2 A/C's, and fridge I think there is just too much load for the transfer switch.
But I have noticed if I switch the HW heater to propane, the problem seems to go away.
__________________ 2014 Georgetown XL 352QS 2013-2019 Days Camped-502
I should also point out that mine does the same thing on my current RV when I run both A/C's and the HW heater is set for Electric. it is not consistent, but with the HW heater, 2 A/C's, and fridge I think there is just too much load for the transfer switch.
But I have noticed if I switch the HW heater to propane, the problem seems to go away.
I had generator running, front a/c unit roof mount, refrigerator, and was rolling from a stop, no more than 5 mph, and it tripped out. When your trying to drive from Oklahoma to Florida, it gets very old having to shut off a/c units at random to let the transfer switch re-engage and then turn them back on.
2013 Georgetown XL 350
Bunkhouse
2002 F250 4X4 CC
2012 Jeep Liberty
My Georgetown does not have a transfer switch for the generator. Instead, there is a 50 amp campground outlet installed in the cord storage compartment that is connected to the generator. When I leave a campground, the big power cord is simply plugged into the outlet. If I want to use the generator, it's ready to go. Works every time...
This is something I would consider! Did this set-up come factory like this?
2013 Georgetown XL 350
Bunkhouse
2002 F250 4X4 CC
2012 Jeep Liberty
Mine did not come with one. Now if something goes wrong i know its not the transfer switch. I had one fail on my last motorhome. You know what they say "One more thing to go wrong".
__________________
2011 Gergetown 378 TS XL on a Workhorse W22 chassis
Is there any kind of risk if I take out the transfer switch altogether and just wire in a 50 amp receptacle and make plug ends on the generator cord and shore power cord?? Like what was kinda mentioned above.... I do not have an autos tart generator, thus no need for an auto transfer switch.....
2013 Georgetown XL 350
Bunkhouse
2002 F250 4X4 CC
2012 Jeep Liberty
Is there any kind of risk if I take out the transfer switch altogether and just wire in a 50 amp receptacle and make plug ends on the generator cord and shore power cord?? Like what was kinda mentioned above.... I do not have an autos tart generator, thus no need for an auto transfer switch.....
2013 Georgetown XL 350
Bunkhouse
2002 F250 4X4 CC
2012 Jeep Liberty
As long as you know what you have to do before hand.
Separate both power sources and when wiring in the new plug get the color code and wires right.
Guess my main concern is the transfer switch itself is not a breaker, or safety device, I understand it can kick out, but the 50 amp breakers inside coach are there for safety and the breakers on the generator are there for safety.
2013 Georgetown XL 350
Bunkhouse
2002 F250 4X4 CC
2012 Jeep Liberty
Aviator Wright Flyer #1919
Linear Mode
