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Old 12-24-2009, 07:14 AM   #11
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I believe this is the company that supplies the steps to FR. The following link may have some info related to your problem.

http://www.kwikee.com/Series23.html

I also see that they don't recommend using WD40. So I've learned something from just searching on line.

http://www.kwikee.com/stepmaintain.html

I found the KWIK TEST unit and it's $175.00, not a bad investment if you test steps for a living. Otherwise steep.
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Old 12-24-2009, 03:00 PM   #12
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guess what, i have some strange shi_ going on, left the shoreline unplugg and the onboard battery, two 110Amp was dead,? what could be drawing the power from the batteries.?
what every it is it killing these battey in about 24 hours, which must be the problem with the steps


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Old 12-24-2009, 03:31 PM   #13
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Could be related, but I doubt the power problem is causing the steps to halt.

Do you leave the shoreline plugged in continuously? If so, you may have toasted the batteries. We had a long discussion in a different thread about way to keep the batteries topped off without frying them.

http://forestriverforums.com/forums/...light=inverter
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Old 12-24-2009, 03:33 PM   #14
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guess what, i have some strange shi_ going on, left the shoreline unplugg and the onboard battery, two 110Amp was dead,? what could be drawing the power from the batteries.?
what every it is it killing these battey in about 24 hours, which must be the problem with the steps


graham
Perhaps it's not that something is killing the batteries but that they are already dead and not taking a charge. If one has a bad cell it will cause all sorts of issues. Have had this happen before. Most recently with the starting battery on our rig which went bad early. The LED turn signal lights in our side pod cameras were lighting up for no reason while it was parked. Went to start the motorhome and totally dead. Hooked up a charger/starter and put it in start mode. Fried the charger! Bad battery.

I would check the fluid level in all the cells but I would venture to guess you have one or more that are dry, therfore dead batteries and they will more than likely need to be replaced.
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Old 12-24-2009, 04:22 PM   #15
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Best way to check, unhook both batteries and unhook them from each other. Charge each one with a trickle charger, 2 amps or so, for 24 hours. Unhook and check voltage. Should still be over 12.5 volts after 24 hours not connected to anything. If not, that battery is toast. this will eliminate anything pulling them down, and eliminate your converters ability to charge, for the moment. If the batteries are good, then you'll have to continue to find the problem.
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Old 12-24-2009, 04:24 PM   #16
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well the batteries was new around 2-3 months ago.? I do leave the shorline on every evening and not on during the day, Iv just taken them off to charge in the house for the night in the warm.?
last night the batteries was showing 12.6 voults and this eveing they was flat, the shorline was not plugin.?
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Old 12-24-2009, 04:25 PM   #17
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our thread crossed, that what im doing, nightmare chaps
thanks for all your help
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Old 12-24-2009, 05:21 PM   #18
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just been doing some research on the forum here,
Found this

little tiny rocker switch above
the freezer door. This is labeled "environment""climate" or something.
It is a heater that warms the area between the freezer
and fresh food doors. That little strip you can see below
the freezer door can sweat in humid conditions so they
put in a heater to warm it up!!
YIKES-- It uses a considerable amount of juice when
it's on. My freezer door is so close to this switch that
it can actually bump the switch to the ON position.

could this be the culprit?after checking it was switch on??
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Old 12-25-2009, 12:22 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggm View Post
just been doing some research on the forum here,
Found this

little tiny rocker switch above
the freezer door. This is labeled "environment""climate" or something.
It is a heater that warms the area between the freezer
and fresh food doors. That little strip you can see below
the freezer door can sweat in humid conditions so they
put in a heater to warm it up!!
YIKES-- It uses a considerable amount of juice when
it's on. My freezer door is so close to this switch that
it can actually bump the switch to the ON position.

could this be the culprit?after checking it was switch on??
The heater switch should only work when the fridge is on. If you are running your fridge, than yes, that could be the culprit.
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Old 12-25-2009, 01:40 PM   #20
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fridge was not on, so if this only come on when fridge is on i need to keep looking, anyone got any more ideas.
im going to put the battry back on boxing day and switch the isolationswitch to on and do a meter reading on the volts after say 4 hours and then agin after 8. Hope the steps will work now the batteries are fully charged.
dont think the onboard inverter is charging my battery when plugg into the shoreline, i do know the geny charges them?
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