Battery Switch

[mlafleur]

Hi,
I have 2004 Georgetown XL 308, and I have a question about the battery switch near the exit stairs.

When I turned it to "store", the only thing that stops from working is the stairs: everything else that runs on battery still work (pump, lights, slide-outs,etc).

In addition, I left it in storage for about one week (battery switch on "use"), and we used a couple of the battery-operated items (slides, light) when we cleaned it up before our first trip, and when I went to start the engine, the chassis battery was dead, I had to use the booster function to jump the chassis using using the house batteries.

When I took ownership of it a month ago (I bought it used from a dealer), the generator wouldn't start due to poor ground. They worked on it for a little while and the gen started to work again. Could they have messed up the wiring and cut out the switch?

Thanks,

Maurice

[Iggy]

Can you take a picture of this battery switch.

Here is what mine looks like but may be different than your as yours is older version.
When the light is on you have batteries hooked up to all.
Press it and light goes out and you hear the big relay de-energize in the battery control center.

Here's some pictures and the wiring of the switch.
You just may have a blown fuse in the Battery Control Center that may cause your problems.

Check

[mlafleur]

Thanks,
Although looking different, the functionalities on mine are the same. When I press the "Use/Storage" switch, I can hear the relay clicking on or off. But what worries me is that every battery-powered apparatus still work in the "Storage" position.
I'll use the schematic you sent to try and decipher the wiring in the battery compartment.
Maurice

[Outtahere100]

On my 2016 335DS, the 12 V appliances continue to work with the switch in the "Disconnect" position when the battery charger, "Converter" is on (connected to external power). Try turning off the "Converter" AC breaker, or unplug the coach and see if it behaves differently.

John

[llr]

are you sure that is a battery switch and not just a switch to disable the stairs? The label and location sound suspicious to me.

[mlafleur]

Actually, I was off the grid when I tried the switch yesterday. I have an inkling that that something is wrong with the wiring.

[mlafleur]

Update on the Battery Switch question:
Yesterday I made few tests. I'm off the grid, no external source of power. A picture of the actual switch is attached.

1- Battery Disconnect in "USE" position:
All 12V systems run normally, chassis engine starts normally.

2- Battery Disconnect in "STORE" position:
All 12V systems run normally, chassis engine starts normally. Stairs don't retract when I close the door. I have to turn the switch to "STORE" after the stairs retract, with the door close.


I also took some measurements with my voltmeter, and frankly not knowing what I was doing exactly, I gave up.

I'm at a lost, I think I will have to take the rig down to an RV place to have it diagnosed and fixed.
Thanks to everyone who offered advice.
Maurice

[bubbles]

Kind of sounds normal. The 12 volt items working all probably require a switch actuation and would not be a drain on the battery if the switch is open. The steps issue sounds normal for Lippert steps and I think normal for early versions of Kwikee steps. I usually reached through the screen door to actuate the battery disconnect switch with Lippert steps. Could be wrong.

[mlafleur]

Thanks. If everything I describe sounds normal, what is that switch useful for then?

[bubbles]

Well, it does not have anything to do with the chassis battery (the switch will not disconnect the cassis battery) so the "able to start the engine" is definitely normal. No point in mentioning that. I'm not saying that there is not an issue but then again maybe there isn't. Sounds as though your disconnect may be an Intellitec type install and I'm not really familiar with the differences (if any) between that system and the type disconnect the Georgetown uses today. Is this similar to your disconnect?

[mlafleur]

Thanks, I thought I had posted a picture of my switch, but it didn't turn up. Yes the picture you posted shows the exact same thing as mine. Let see if I can post my pic this time...

[mlafleur]

Hi,
A couple of months later, and a couple of outings later, here's an update on my Battery and Battery switch situation.

I was suspicious about my chassis battery discharging when the motorhome was left parked and on no power source.

I also had an issue with the CO/Propane detector. The unit would not power up when connected the wires. Without anything connected, the wires showed 12V. As soon as there was a charge on the wires (simulated with a 50 Ohms resistor for example) the voltage dropped to 0. For safety reasons, I ended up jury-rigged the device and wire it directly to the battery bank, with a fuse of course.

These seemingly unrelated problems were nagging me. I had some work done on the rig to install proper wiring for the Brake Buddy and towing kit, and the technician offered to look at it.

He found out that the (pinkish/purplish) wire bringing the signal to close the solenoid between the RV battery bank and the chassis battery is always live i.e. the two sets are always connected together. To temporarily remedy the situation, he pulled the fuse of that circuit and the solenoid opened.

Further to that, an RV tech came to inspect the systems yesterday. He came to the same conclusion: the solenoid remains closed all the time, the two batteries are always connected together. He conducted some more tests and announced that the board (behind the solenoid circuitry) has probably gone bad and needs to be replaced. He suspects that the CO/Propane detector is powered by that same board and this would solved both problems at the same time. I have no idea how much this unit costs, but I'll guess it's in the hundreds of $

He was puzzled when I told him many systems remained active despite turning the Battery Disconnect switch to "Store". It turned out the only systems that stay active are the stairs and the lights... Th lights?? The wire bringing juice to the DC lighting circuit is connected directly to the RV battery bank. Shouldn't it be connected to the Battery Disconnect solenoid?

Anyhow, I'm now waiting for the tech to call me back and tell me how much this will cost me and when it's going to be fixed. Our first snowbird trip to warmer skies is scheduled for end of November.... Anxiously waiting...
Maurice

[Reverse_snowbird]

Originally Posted by mlafleur

Hi,
He found out that the (pinkish/purplish) wire bringing the signal to close the solenoid between the RV battery bank and the chassis battery is always live i.e. the two sets are always connected together. To temporarily remedy the situation, he pulled the fuse of that circuit and the solenoid opened.
It turned out the only systems that stay active are the stairs and the lights... Th lights?? The wire bringing juice to the DC lighting circuit is connected directly to the RV battery bank. Shouldn't it be connected to the Battery Disconnect solenoid?

I can kind of understand why the two batteries are connected. Ours has an emergency start on the dash for use in case the chassis battery is low and won't start the motor.
Regarding the stairs. I think that's normal. The only way to disconnect the stairs on our rig is to either remove the connections from the battery or have the battery go completely dead. I think it's a safety feature so that you don't open the door from inside and end up tumbling to the ground because there are no stairs.
Regarding the lights.... if you have them off, it shouldn't drain the battery.

A cheaper solution might be to install a battery disconnect switch on the battery itself so that it won't discharge due to parasitic drain. Then put something to indicate that the stairs won't extend.

[mlafleur]

Thank you.


I got a call from my technician today: the board is back order for another 7-8 weeks. We're leaving in 4 weeks now, so I guess it's not going to happen now. I can still use the fuse pulling trick to keep the batteries isolated, and jury-rig my Propane/CO detector like I did before. The tech will provide me with the exact part number so when I'm in the USA I will look for it in RV places, and bring in back in the spring for installation -- I wouldn't dare try that myself.
See you on the road, maybe?
Maurice

[ascotinsc]

Thank you for providing this information and electrical drawing, truly made my day.