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Old 06-18-2013, 11:32 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Lostdog View Post
To help the OP, I think we need to get back to what caused the problem to begin with. Something in the SLIDE is in a bind or the piston rod/slide attachment is out of adjustment. If the OP was to say to the repair person "Bernoulli's principle" he would be laughed at.
Read posts 15, 24, and 26. They all refer to a misalignment of the guide system. Rather refer BP to a mechanic than AFU!
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:49 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by raycyn778 View Post
Vince, do you and Win know for SURE that the rod needs to be fully extended and then adjusted to that point? I spent a lot of time on Lipperts web site and found this..
Extending Slide out room
1...
2...
3...
4... Press and hold the IN/OUT switch in the OUT position until the room is fully extended and stops moving.
5... Release the switch, which will lock the room into position
NOTE: If the slideout switch is held after the room is fully extended, the control will sense that the room has stopped and will shut off the motor after a few seconds"

Seems to me that this may be a design issue. the rod end of the cylinder is not supported in any way, if it was it would not have had the 6 or so feet from contact point to contact point to be able to bend, it would have been more like 30" or so. I just want to get it fixed so we can use it and deal with any issues later. Already have one out, unfortunately the other one is bent as well. not nearly as bad but if I am going to do it right, I am going to do both. the problem with doing the other one is that one end is connected to the slide under the entry stairs..what a bi... just to get to it!
Partly bent is like partly pregnant, no good, you made the right call. To put them back I would leave the nuts very slack. Slowly operate the system to the extend position and follow the measurements in the book for proper slack motion. I check the rest of mine today where accessible and in all cases the rod is slightly loose in the bracket with lost motion down stream, and the slide out against the gaskets.

Your item five doesn't exist in any Lippert system I've seen spoken to. Like Win and I both stated they simply two block and you must release the button.

My book showed a reversible drill to extend and retract at the pump. Another myth, they have reversible valve I oil side for years now.

The piston rod adjustments were in the back of the book. If not there you can find on LCI1.com. I think in the future to watch the slide and listen to the pump at the end of travel. If not sure let go of the button, you can always reapply. If the piston bottoms out, it cannot bend anything, just don't overdo it.

Oh yes ask the shop if they can straighten the slight bent shaft with a lathe and heat. It may save a buck, maybe not.
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:11 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by raycyn778 View Post
Vince, do you and Win know for SURE that the rod needs to be fully extended and then adjusted to that point? I spent a lot of time on Lipperts web site and found this..
Extending Slide out room
1...
2...
3...
4... Press and hold the IN/OUT switch in the OUT position until the room is fully extended and stops moving.
5... Release the switch, which will lock the room into position
NOTE: If the slideout switch is held after the room is fully extended, the control will sense that the room has stopped and will shut off the motor after a few seconds"

Seems to me that this may be a design issue. the rod end of the cylinder is not supported in any way, if it was it would not have had the 6 or so feet from contact point to contact point to be able to bend, it would have been more like 30" or so. I just want to get it fixed so we can use it and deal with any issues later. Already have one out, unfortunately the other one is bent as well. not nearly as bad but if I am going to do it right, I am going to do both. the problem with doing the other one is that one end is connected to the slide under the entry stairs..what a bi... just to get to it!
Im not 100% sure but it just seems logical to fully extend and then do your adjustments
I attached 2 PDFs for you maybe that will help
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Parts_Serv_Man_Dewald_Hyd_Slideout_Sys.pdf (59.8 KB, 39 views)
File Type: pdf 0131.pdf (162.1 KB, 48 views)
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Old 06-19-2013, 02:02 PM   #34
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Just a couple of notes regarding previous comments:

FIRST
Previous Comment:
My book showed a reversible drill to extend and retract at the pump. Another myth, they have reversible valve I oil side for years now.

Maybe I'm reading the manual wrong, but the following seems to support
the use of a drill to simulate the normal motor drive.

Source = Lippert Hydraulic Slideout Manual

The Lippert Hydro-Sync Slideout System can be run with auxiliary power devices
like electric drills, ratchet wrenches or cordless screwdrivers. In the event of
electrical or system failure, this manual method of extending and retracting the
slideout room can be used. A standard handheld drill is all that is required. A
standard 38" room will take approximately 45 seconds to retract.

Run drill forward or clockwise to extend slideout room and in reverse or
counterclockwise to retract slideout room.
seconds to retract.

SECOND

It appears that raycyn778 comments quoted below are correct, if the pressure switch
operates as indicated in LIP 0100.

Previous Comment:

NOTE: If the slideout switch is held after the room is fully extended, the control will sense that the room has stopped and will shut off the motor after a few seconds"

SOURCE = LIP 0100

AUTOMATIC PUMP SHUT OFF GOES THROUGH THE PRESSURE SWITCH. IF THE PUMP DOES NOT BUILD ENOUGH PRESSURE TO OPEN THE PRESSURE SWITCH, THE SYSTEM DOES NOT SHUT OFF.

Just some food for thought
Gary
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Old 06-19-2013, 07:38 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by win View Post
Im not 100% sure but it just seems logical to fully extend and then do your adjustments
I attached 2 PDFs for you maybe that will help
Win, great attachments, thanks. I have removed both main room slides and and looking into having them straightened. The bends were not that bad but we will see what the opinion of the hydraulic repair shop in the next town over is. What I am trying to find out now is the procedure for putting them back into the unit. Will they equalize in length on their own? Do I fully extend them before putting the nuts on and adjust from there? Been trying to reach April Conner for a name and number of someone who knows. No answer for three days. Tried reaching Steve, left a message, no return call. Spoke with someone named Nicole at Lippert, don't think she likes her job very much..really rude. "We only send parts to Forest river, we don't know what they do with them!!!!" Could not tell me how they are adjusted and she works on the customer info line..
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:36 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by raycyn778 View Post
Win, great attachments, thanks. I have removed both main room slides and and looking into having them straightened. The bends were not that bad but we will see what the opinion of the hydraulic repair shop in the next town over is. What I am trying to find out now is the procedure for putting them back into the unit. Will they equalize in length on their own? Do I fully extend them before putting the nuts on and adjust from there? Been trying to reach April Conner for a name and number of someone who knows. No answer for three days. Tried reaching Steve, left a message, no return call. Spoke with someone named Nicole at Lippert, don't think she likes her job very much..really rude. "We only send parts to Forest river, we don't know what they do with them!!!!" Could not tell me how they are adjusted and she works on the customer info line..
raycyn

I want to caution you on straightening the rods, once they bend even just a little , it weakens the rod material and will break or bend again with little force, the molecules in the rod have stretched and will never be the same strength, you should replace with new, have your hydraulic service shop make new ones, do NOT put heat on the rods that will compromise the chrome and will rust and that will wipe out the rod seals
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:41 PM   #37
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raycyn

I want to caution you on straightening the rods, once they bend even just a little , it weakens the rod material and will break or bend again with little force, the molecules in the rod have stretched and will never be the same strength, you should replace with new, have your hydraulic service shop make new ones, do NOT put heat on the rods that will compromise the chrome and will rust and that will wipe out the rod seals
If he is taking them to a hyd. cyl. shop, they will not use heat, they will pad the rod so as to not scar it and mechanically bend it back straight. Shouldn't hurt the shaft in anyway. Mechanical properties will not be altered if heat is not used. OP's shafts are not bent that bad.
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Old 06-19-2013, 10:06 PM   #38
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If he is taking them to a hyd. cyl. shop, they will not use heat, they will pad the rod so as to not scar it and mechanically bend it back straight. Shouldn't hurt the shaft in anyway. Mechanical properties will not be altered if heat is not used. OP's shafts are not bent that bad.
Ok then no problem im only giving info on HYRAULICS from 35 years experience
Take a piece of steel rod something that you can bend with your arms back and forth, what happens it creates heat and breaks, sure its just a rv slide and its not heavy equipment so not a big deal right! but why take a chance it not going to cost a lot more to do it RIGHT

Im done
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Old 06-19-2013, 10:17 PM   #39
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Ok then no problem im only giving info on HYRAULICS from 35 years experience
Take a piece of steel rod something that you can bend with your arms back and forth, what happens it creates heat and breaks, sure its just a rv slide and its not heavy equipment so not a big deal right! but why take a chance it not going to cost a lot more to do it RIGHT

Im done
Not arguing with you, but they straighten hyd. shafts in the mfg process also. OP's is bowed, not bent and they will not be bending it back and forth.
It's OP's $ and decision and no right or wrong.

I'm outa here.
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Old 06-19-2013, 10:29 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by win View Post
Ok then no problem im only giving info on HYRAULICS from 35 years experience
Take a piece of steel rod something that you can bend with your arms back and forth, what happens it creates heat and breaks, sure its just a rv slide and its not heavy equipment so not a big deal right! but why take a chance it not going to cost a lot more to do it RIGHT

Im done
Just for laughs google "Straighten shafting" there's over 100 sites, more than 1/2 use heat as a energy to cause straightening w/o shaft damage. This is LCI were talking not NASA. These rods will not be cheap to fabricate.

Ray I suggest you try to reach Gary in the support division, he seemed quite knowledgeable about these systems.

Just to close, in my line of work it was routine have 10' long sections of 1 11/16" shafting straightened after a pump failure. For shops that know how its routine to bring large shaft back to .001" of original.
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