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Old 04-20-2017, 05:11 AM   #1
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Bunk TVs to inverter?

Has anyone wired the bunk TVs in a 364ts to the inverter? Kiddos want to watch Movies going down the road and it looks like the only way is for me to run the generator. I wouldn't see why the 2000w inverter couldn't handle 2 small tvs.
Ideas?
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Old 04-20-2017, 09:25 AM   #2
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In my 364 TS, the only plug powered by the inverter is under the stove (single 120 V outlet for fridge). I replaced the single 120V outlet with a double 120V, and put hinges on the wooden vent/cover (it was screwed in). When we are on road, I run an extension out of the enclosure, and power the main TV, and Xbox or Android box. There are enough amps to power everything, so I am sure you could power the bunk TVs. A permanent wiring fix would be much more complicated, so I selected the simple solution of an extension cord on the floor while driving.


If you want to permanently wire something to the inverter, check the thread Georgetown MODs, as someone posted instructions to wire the counter plug to the inverter. Bunks will be more complicated, as you will have to remove fridge to get behind it, and you will have to deal with the bunks slide, but could be done.
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Old 04-20-2017, 06:00 PM   #3
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Bunk TVs to inverter?

If you are handy maybe you can find a small inverter for each TV and hard wire them to one of the overhead lights in the bunk area. Each TV shouldn't be more than 20 - 30 watts? If you are concerned with how much amperage you may need then change all of your 12 incandescent lights on that particular circuit to LEDs.
Small inverters are less than 20 bucks each and you can find many different types on EBay and Amazon.
Just an idea.
Or just buy new 12 volt TVs and replace the ones in the bunk area.
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Old 04-20-2017, 06:01 PM   #4
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That's a great idea. Thanks
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Old 04-20-2017, 07:59 PM   #5
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My bunk TV/DVDs are 12 volt and work anytime there is battery power. Maybe it's different now than in 2011.
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Old 04-20-2017, 08:00 PM   #6
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Hmm I'll have to take a look but I didn't think they did
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Old 04-20-2017, 09:10 PM   #7
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The TV's have a 12v option. If you go through the trouble of getting small inverters for both, you could just as easily pick up the 12v adaptor the goes with the TV's.
Another option would be to wire the breaker the controls the outlets in the coach to the inverter with a transfer switch. There are several threads on how to do that on this forum.
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Old 04-20-2017, 09:11 PM   #8
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Hmm I'll have to find one of those threads. That is what I was looking for. I do have the 12v cords but wasn't sure where I would run those to
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Old 04-20-2017, 09:20 PM   #9
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http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...-102130-2.html


http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...all-91636.html
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Old 04-20-2017, 09:24 PM   #10
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The first one links to a fifth wheel forum. I'll take a look at the second one. That's in line with what I want. I wish I could just tie everything into the 2000w inverter in the coach already. I would think that is more than enough to power a fridge and 2 small tvs
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Old 04-21-2017, 07:30 AM   #11
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Bunk TVs to inverter?

You can Walt1fr. Buy a transfer switch, about 50 bucks, find the power line for the circuit you want to connect to the inverter and wire inline. Very simple to do. Xantrex transfer switch has a plug you plug into your inverter then put the transfer switch inline with your circuit.
I did mine this way but used and new inverter because the one FR installed on my motorhome was only a 1000 watt.
I did mine to power the circuit for the entertainment center.
If you have any questions just ask.
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Old 04-21-2017, 07:49 AM   #12
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The second one is the one you want. You already have a 2000 watt inverter, plenty for both the reefer and some stuff plugged in . In addition, FR used the Xantrex transfer switch, so I did and others have. However, in bouncing around to help another poster install an inverter in his coach, I stumbled on the Kisae brand of switches which support a wired connection from the breaker and to the loads, eliminating the need for the additional octagonal box. Specs attached.

The only question is which plugs you want to feed. My guess is that they are all on the same breaker...the non GFCI plug breaker. You won't find an existing box for that but will have to come down from the power panel in the bedroom to the lower power bay and install the switch. The bonus is that I bet that your TVs and all of your plugs outside of the galley will now work on the inverter.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Kisae Transfer Switch User Guide.pdf (91.5 KB, 24 views)
File Type: pdf Kisae Transfer Switch ts15a_ts20a_spec_sheet.pdf (470.7 KB, 25 views)
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Old 04-21-2017, 03:01 PM   #13
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Inverter for Whole coach

Quote:
Originally Posted by Walte1fr View Post
Has anyone wired the bunk TVs in a 364ts to the inverter? Kiddos want to watch Movies going down the road and it looks like the only way is for me to run the generator. I wouldn't see why the 2000w inverter couldn't handle 2 small tvs.
Ideas?
I added an Inverter/Charger and it Powers the ENTIRE RV, even Air Conditioning! You would not believe how many people tell me it is impossible.

Even though my IC can interface the Generator, Solar and Shore Power automatically, I handle their interfaces differently than them. I can do a better job manually, they are concerned with the general customer base that may not have the expertise, training, or desire.
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Old 04-22-2017, 08:12 AM   #14
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I wouldn't mind all of the non GFI plugs being powered. It's not like we use them all while driving. Yeah I would have thought the 2000 watt inverter would have fed more than just the fridge. Do you have a list of what you had to do?
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Old 04-22-2017, 03:02 PM   #15
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Several thoughts. The inverter has a gfci so no need to have any more gfci connected to it since you should not have any more than 1 gfci on one circuit.
As for your next statement the fridge will draw almost 960 watts, meaning you would be close to maxing out a 1000 watt inverter, like what I have. With connecting more to that circuit you wouldn't have much left over to power another circuit down line. Most circuits are rated at 1500 watts so really to power another circuit fully, like if you want to run a small heater, 750-1500 watts it wouldn't work.
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Old 04-22-2017, 03:32 PM   #16
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Running a heater would be a pretty big waste of an inverter. Sure it might work. The coaches manufactured since 2014 or so have a 2000 watt inverter on the reefer, which leaves plenty of extra wattage for things like TVs, CPAPs, etc. If you overload the inverter it will just shut down.

I recommend that the inverter power the Non GFCI plugs, which are outside the galley. Much lower probability of hooking up a big load like a coffee maker or toaster.
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Old 04-23-2017, 09:22 AM   #17
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Yeah as far as I know it's a 2000 watt inverter. Only other thing we may run into is needing to cool the coach down during the drive but if it comes to that I'll just have to run the genny
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Old 04-23-2017, 09:26 AM   #18
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I just thought about it. The 2 tvs up front wouldn't be powered. The one of the driver doesn't turn on when the key is in the ignition and the one in the kitchen is on the gfci. That does leave the ones in the bunks and the master bed though. That should be enough hahah
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Old 04-23-2017, 10:44 AM   #19
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IC

Quote:
Originally Posted by wrapperman View Post
Several thoughts. The inverter has a gfci so no need to have any more gfci connected to it since you should not have any more than 1 gfci on one circuit.
As for your next statement the fridge will draw almost 960 watts, meaning you would be close to maxing out a 1000 watt inverter, like what I have. With connecting more to that circuit you wouldn't have much left over to power another circuit down line. Most circuits are rated at 1500 watts so really to power another circuit fully, like if you want to run a small heater, 750-1500 watts it wouldn't work.
'don't know if your fridge is able to run on propane, but that is how I do it unless plugged in. It is much more efficient than electric.

My added I/C DOES Not have a GFCI (if you mean outlet). GFCI is handled by the outlets in a "parallel downstream" type of set up by GT vs each outlet being a dedicated GFCI outlet - imho, done on the cheap. First outlet is GFCI and all downstream from there are not - they are std 120Vac outlets. I have no idea why, but probably on the cheap again, there is a separate circuit of outlets that have NO GFCI at all. I think they are limited to the mater bdrm, but have not traced it out yet.

Because my I/C is wired to the main 120Vac panel, I am able to run anything 120Vac I desire, but I will only run items desired on 120Vac outlets, TVs, Microwave, Air Conditioning. I will not use it for heating Air or Water. I have a dedicated propane heater to warm the RV and a propane heater built into the water tank like most. I do not use the electric heater built into the Air Conditioners either.

By some of the posts, I think there is a mix of TT & RVs in the replies which may impact choices and availability of options.
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Old 04-23-2017, 11:36 AM   #20
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Quote:
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...First outlet is GFCI and all downstream from there are not - they are std 120Vac outlets. I have no idea why, but probably on the cheap again...
The first GFCI protects all of the downstream outlets and there is no need for more GFCI outlets after that.
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