Charging House Batteries with Disconnect Switch Activated

[DustyR]

I'm a new GT 351DS owner; first RV so I have what is probably a dumb question that I cannot find an answer to in the FR books I have.

My house batteries are 3/4 full and I'm getting ready to cool the fridge for a couple of days (using propane) before we head out friday afternoon.

Can I leave the battery disconnect switch activated and still charge the batteries using an extension cord and adapter?

[bubbles]

If you mean that you are plugging into shore power (home 15amp receptacle using adapters) then your converter will charge your batteries if the battery disconnect switch is not set to disconnect. No need for a separate charger.

[rana]

It depends. Where is your battery disconnect switch located?

[DustyR]

Thanks Bubbles. Will it charge when the battery switch is set to disconnect?

[DustyR]

The disconnect switch is in the stairwell on the left.

[rana]

Just as a side note, I would prechill your fridge using shore power while you have it rather than propane. It's much more economical and you'll probably want every pound of propane you can get while on the road.

[bubbles]

Originally Posted by DustyR

Thanks Bubbles. Will it charge when the battery switch is set to disconnect?

Typically, no. I don't know of a coach that charges the battery if disconnect is selected. Might be one but your's is probably not the one. Additionally; your chassis battery will also be charging. when connected to shore power. And yes, why not just use the shore power input for the fridge and save the propane for the road.

[DustyR]

I think you're right. I'm going to leave the switch to connected and charge it.

Yarome: Are you saying that I can run the fridge off my household power or do I need 30 amp or 50 amp for it to run. If I can do it using my regular power than I would absolutely prefer to do so. I just didn't think it was an option.

[rana]

Originally Posted by DustyR

The disconnect switch is in the stairwell on the left.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but you should be good. That's just a soft disconnect switch that cuts the power to your "house" bus. Your battery/ies will still be charging.

[bubbles]

Originally Posted by DustyR

I think you're right. I'm going to leave the switch to connected and charge it.

Yarome: Are you saying that I can run the fridge off my household power or do I need 30 amp or 50 amp for it to run. If I can do it using my regular power than I would absolutely prefer to do so. I just didn't think it was an option.

Yes you can. It doesn't have to be a 30 amp shore power. Your household 15 amp is quite sufficient.

[bubbles]

Originally Posted by Yarome

Correct me if I'm wrong, but you should be good. That's just a soft disconnect switch that cuts the power to your "house" bus. Your battery/ies will still be charging.

I believe if you disconnect the coach batteries with the disconnect (storage) switch they will not be charged via the converter.

[rana]

Originally Posted by DustyR

Yarome: Are you saying that I can run the fridge off my household power or do I need 30 amp or 50 amp for it to run. If I can do it using my regular power than I would absolutely prefer to do so. I just didn't think it was an option.

Most definitely. Just plain old household 120volt current from your house will do.

[rana]

Originally Posted by bubbles

I believe if you disconnect the coach batteries with the disconnect (storage) switch they will not be charged via the converter.

Probably need someone more learned, but from what I've heard, those internal disconnect/storage switches kill the 12v feed to the house panel, but the converter will still feed the batteries when you're on shore power. I certainly could be wrong. From what I understand, the intent was to be able to keep a maintenance float charge when in storage without any house load.

I've been wrong before.

[DustyR]

Thanks everyone for the information.

As it turned out, as soon as I plugged it in the disconnect switch automatically disengaged and yes... the refrigerator worked.

I checked the panel and it's showing the batteries at 100%. I think I'll leave it plugged in overnight; don't think it can hurt anything. I was able to read that the charger will reduce the charge and it doesn't seem, from what I've read that it will overcharge. Let's hope not.

Thanks again everyone!

[buddyu]

If you are using house power where on the RV do you plug it?


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[DustyR]

I bought an adapter and plug my extension cord into the coach's 50 amp cord.

[bubbles]

Originally Posted by DustyR

Thanks everyone for the information.

As it turned out, as soon as I plugged it in the disconnect switch automatically disengaged and yes... the refrigerator worked.

I checked the panel and it's showing the batteries at 100%. I think I'll leave it plugged in overnight; don't think it can hurt anything. I was able to read that the charger will reduce the charge and it doesn't seem, from what I've read that it will overcharge. Let's hope not.

Thanks again everyone!

Your switch will not automatically disconnect if it is a rocker type with a light bar to show if on or not. The light bar indicates the battery is not disconnected but if pluged into shore power the light will illuminate whether or not the batteries are disconnected. Must actuate switch to not disconnected to verify batteries are connected. This is referenced in a supplemental coach owners sheet from FR.

[bubbles]

Originally Posted by Yarome

Probably need someone more learned, but from what I've heard, those internal disconnect/storage switches kill the 12v feed to the house panel, but the converter will still feed the batteries when you're on shore power. I certainly could be wrong. From what I understand, the intent was to be able to keep a maintenance float charge when in storage without any house load.

I've been wrong before.

The intent was, I believe, to be able to disconnect the coach battery for storage but also to disconnect battery when connected to shore power to prevent overcharging battery when a conventional converter/charger is installed. FR installs a 3 stage charger and therefore disconnecting batteries while connected to shore power is not required.

[rana]

Originally Posted by bubbles

overcharging when a conventional converter/charger is installed. FR installs a 3 stage charger and therefore disconnecting batteries while connected to shore power is not required.

Uh. Isn't that what was being talked about? Killing house juice to the main panel but keeping the batteries on a float/trickle/maintenance charge? I know I read it from time to time, but I don't think I could truly attest to ever being witness to or even hearing about any "overcharging" situations in the past couple of decades.

[bubbles]

If you set the battery storage (disconnect) switch to disconnect and are connected to shore power the battery will not be charging. Additionally; the original intent (you used the word intent) of a battery disconnect switch (to actuate a latching relay in the GT) came about for convenience wherein the battery cable did not have to be physically disconnected while in storage. The switching convenience predated the 3 stage converter/charger by several years. My 2000 MH did not have a charger that would float and therefore my batteries could boil over (and did) if left on charge to long. If connected to shore power "killing house juice" is not accomplished through the use of the battery disconnect switch. The converter will supply the "house juice" regardless of the position of the battery disconnect switch (lights may get brighter with battery not disconnected). Maybe we're talking apples/oranges here. I'm done.