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Old 10-12-2013, 08:57 AM   #11
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Sorry about your troubles

From someone who does automotive ac work on a daily basis.
#1 if the seal is leaking a little now (add a can every week), within a few months (or days-you never know)it will be a can a day or worse. Fix the problem.
#2 if the seal is leaking than there is no need to flush the system, its a leak not a mechanical component failure that will send contaminants into the system.
#3 go with an OE compressor. Auto zone or oriellys reman. Compressors may sound great as they are cheaper, but we have had some that would not make it out of the shop doors without failing, and then your doing it again. And as much as most dealers charge for labor at $100+ an hour, I would only want to pay it once.

I hate to justify a cost cause I dont want to upset anybody, but brake down the cost.
$500 for ac compressor
$10-20 for orifice tube and oil
$30 at $12 a pound most have around 2-3 pounds for larger vehicles
$180- labor for evac and recharge. Book time for all smaller automotive systems is 1.8 hours
+2-4 hours @$100hr for compressor install its self- I dont know what book time would be on this. Of course the harder the access the more it will cost. I can see how $1,000 would be easy to hit.
- I did one on my little sisters sunfire and compessor, new line (about $45)(there was a rubbed area on the line) freon and oil, and I had about $450 in it and that was me getting employee- 10% over cost on parts & no labor.
Just a little perspective, not trying to ruffle any feathers

Edit-ps. I have never heard of any shop that will re-seal a compressor or any aftermarkets that do a real great job of it consistently.
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Old 10-12-2013, 11:03 AM   #12
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The $500 (even $400) for labor is still WAY OFF.


The compressor on the F53 couldn't be any easier to get to, you don't even have to open the hood.
Lay on creeper, roll under bumper...that's all, it's RIGHT there! Nothing to take off or move out of the way, just go to work on IT.
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Old 10-17-2013, 09:21 AM   #13
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OH NO! We are heading south from Vermont and finally hit warm enough weather here in North Georgia to turn the dash air on. It blew nothing but warm air! A year or so ago I felt like it was not working the way I thought it should and had a Ford truck service place take a look at it and they said that it just needed a little more Freon. It worked good for awhile but we have not needed it cause we have been parked for the last three months in Vermont while workamping at a state park. Guess I'll be taking it to the Ford place again. Guess I'll get an oil change while there. And I'll probably lean on them pretty hard to get me a new compressor while still under warranty. Wish me luck!
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Old 10-17-2013, 12:51 PM   #14
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Dash A/C with 134 needs to be exercised fairly often or the seals will develop leaks. It is recommended that you run it for about a half hour a month to keep the seals from developing leaks, and to circulate the oil.

We live in the desert, and my sister forgets to turn the defroster on every stinking winter, since we have virtually no frost. Have to recharge her air every year. I have started making her pay for it, so maybe she'll remember now!
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Old 10-17-2013, 10:56 PM   #15
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Mine too

My compressor failed on its maiden voyage. 2012 360DS. Gator Ford in Tampa replaced it under warranty. Been working fine since. One year left on warranty so who knows?
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Old 10-18-2013, 10:33 PM   #16
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Some information on Georgetown/Ford AC systems. The correct pressure on the low side is 10 psi and high side 150 psi. The systems do not use an expansion valve and they flood the system. There are two types of Condensers used in fords. The Old fashion is made with fins as a radiator is. That system takes 2.75 pounds of freon to fully charge. The new on is a silver one without fins. That system full charge is 1.75 pounds.
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Old 10-19-2013, 10:23 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by intercept View Post
Some information on Georgetown/Ford AC systems. The correct pressure on the low side is 10 psi and high side 150 psi. The systems do not use an expansion valve and they flood the system. There are two types of Condensers used in fords. The Old fashion is made with fins as a radiator is. That system takes 2.75 pounds of freon to fully charge. The new on is a silver one without fins. That system full charge is 1.7nd5 pous.
Here is a picture of my 2012.
I guess it show fins. Haven't seen any without fins in a Georgetown.. Have you?
When Ford replaced my compressor they added 36 oz of R134a Freon at approx. 95 degrees ambient temp

Also it seem the AC compressor is the same part # since 2003

YCC-187 FORD F550 SUPER DUTY
6.8L A/C COMPRESSOR 6U9Z-19703-A
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:41 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Lostdog View Post
OH NO! We are heading south from Vermont and finally hit warm enough weather here in North Georgia to turn the dash air on. It blew nothing but warm air! A year or so ago I felt like it was not working the way I thought it should and had a Ford truck service place take a look at it and they said that it just needed a little more Freon. It worked good for awhile but we have not needed it cause we have been parked for the last three months in Vermont while workamping at a state park. Guess I'll be taking it to the Ford place again. Guess I'll get an oil change while there. And I'll probably lean on them pretty hard to get me a new compressor while still under warranty. Wish me luck!
Took the coach into the Ford dealer and they found that the "split compressor case" was cracked. They also stated that "this is frequent with the MotorCraft compressors". All was fixed under warranty but now I have little confidence that the new compressor will have any length of life.
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Old 10-30-2013, 11:49 AM   #19
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Mine is in the shop with AC Freon leaks too. Looks like Iggy's dealer split the 28 or 44 ounce ratings of the two condenser types in half at 36 ounces. The most critical method of charging is reading ~10 to 15 PSI on the low side with 80 F ambient air outside and the air on recirculate and 1500 rpm on the engine. The hotter ambient (95 F) air will raise the low side some but not a great amount. Don't make the mistake of using the expansion system auto air readings of 35 PSI+ for the low side. That will overcharge the system and raise the high side above the 150 range and possibly cause leaks.
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