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10-09-2013, 10:16 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Full Time RV
Posts: 10
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Chassis AC - Compressor Leak
We bought our 2007 Georgetown 350DS in March and have been very happy with the purchase. We've put about 4500 miles on it so far and are three months into a year-long trip with our two children.
With all of that being said, we have a very small problem. The problem has existed since we purchased it and only recently did I decide to diagnose it. At the local Ford Dealership in Salt Lake City during our oil change, we asked them to diagnose why the AC blew moderately cool air... sometimes warm. Their diagnosis, a lead on a non-serviceable seal on the AC Compressor. They're recommendation, replace the whole AC compressor at a cost near $1K. The part alone is apparently $500.
I am not really bothered not having AC, first off it's started to get cooler as the US settles into winter. Secondly, I drive in shorts and a t-shirt anyway so I stay cooler.
Is there any less expensive way to replace a AC compressor? I suspect I could it myself, but I am geek not a car guy.
Thoughts?
If it matters, we're on our way to Arizona along I-15. If there is a shop along the way, a recommendation would be appreciated.
Thanks!
__________________
Aaron & Jen
2007 Georgetown 350DS touring the US for 12 Monnths
www.moreau.us
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10-10-2013, 06:33 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Howie in the Hills, FL
Posts: 1,415
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It's strange that the seal cannot be replaced. If it were me, and didn't want to spend the money, I would remove it (can't use it anyway) and see about taking it apart. Put baggies over the lines and duck tape them. Not sure how the compressor is built, but usually you have to remove the clutch assembly and you will see the shaft and the seal around it. Usually, compressors can be taken apart to put new seals in them.
If you go the route of getting a new compressor and installing it yourself, it isn't really that hard. I would recommend swapping out the expansion valve and drier, but you don't necessarily have to. When you put everything together, get an air vacuum pump (harbor freight has one for less than 20 bucks if you have an air compressor, or if you want an electric one they are about 100 bucks) and evacuate all the air out of the lines. Then get your Freon with adapter and pump in the recommended amount, or keep filling it until the bubbles go out on the sight glass. Usually, the new compressor will have enough oil in it for the entire system. I'm not an expert, this is something I have not done in eons.
You could also run your generator and one of your AC units.
Cheers, AL
__________________
2014 Georgetown 351DS
-TruCenter -Front/Rear CHF -Hellwig Links -Tiger Trak -Ran McNally GPS -ScanGauge -Truck Systems TPMS -5 Star Tune
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10-10-2013, 10:56 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 7,948
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My 2012 Georgetown compressor was replaced last week because of dry seals. It was still under the 3 year/36,000 mile warranty. I have a lot of miles on it... 23,000 miles
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10-10-2013, 11:40 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: X
Posts: 2,781
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You can't just replace the compressor and then put new freon in. You have to vacuum pump the system first. (If the compressor blew up, you have to flush the system and replace the accumulator/drier and expansion valve/port as well.)
I'm not saying it's not an easy enough job. I have the equipment and have done it myself. But it's not as easy as some are suggesting.
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10-10-2013, 04:33 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 7,948
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Prior to me getting my AC compressor and Ford not knowing it was under warranty Ford dealer quoted me parts and labor to replace compressor and recharge the system for $675.36
Find another dealer.
Here's one on EBay for $134 and free shipping
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-FS10-A-C...fba72b&vxp=mtr
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10-10-2013, 10:50 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Full Time RV
Posts: 10
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As I read through your responses I am struck by something abjb said... "You can buy a lot of R134a for 1K$'s"
This may be the best approach, buy a couple cans of Freon and refill the system every month or so. I am rather cheap and if indeed this is a common failure the last thing I want to do is replace the AC compressor again in a few months.
As for finding another Ford dealer, yeah... Larry H Miller Ford in Salt Lake hasn't been very customer focuses. Multiple calls not returned, not acknowledging my presence when I arrived (it's hard to miss a 350 DS show up outside your shop). I'll call around in Arizona where I'll be in a few weeks, but .. I may stick with the Freon idea.
__________________
Aaron & Jen
2007 Georgetown 350DS touring the US for 12 Monnths
www.moreau.us
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10-10-2013, 10:58 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 7,948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Moreau
As I read through your responses I am struck by something abjb said... "You can buy a lot of R134a for 1K$'s"
This may be the best approach, buy a couple cans of Freon and refill the system every month or so. I am rather cheap and if indeed this is a common failure the last thing I want to do is replace the AC compressor again in a few months.
As for finding another Ford dealer, yeah... Larry H Miller Ford in Salt Lake hasn't been very customer focuses. Multiple calls not returned, not acknowledging my presence when I arrived (it's hard to miss a 350 DS show up outside your shop). I'll call around in Arizona where I'll be in a few weeks, but .. I may stick with the Freon idea.
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I had my AC replaced at Peoria Ford Arizona on Bell road and the 101. (Not owned by Larry Miller)
You can call my Service Provider David Turner to make a appointment. Tell him John with the 2012 Georgetown motorhome sent you to him. He will treat you will respect and get you a fair estimate. 623-792-2670
They had me in and out in one afternoon.
But I also would first try the Artic Freeze 22 oz bottle with the gauge at Walmart. It will tell you how much to add and it can be used until the can is out. At that time you buy another can and use the gauge and hose again. $34 -$39
P.S.
Like your Family BLOG on your travels.
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10-11-2013, 11:05 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 253
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I also had the leaking compressor seal problem on my 2010 Georgetown. The service tech at the Ford dealer said it is a common problem they see on the F-53 chassis. I had mine fixed under warranty at Gator Ford in Tampa next to Lazy Days. They do a lot of Ford motorhome chassis service and are familiar with the vehicles. The compressor replacement and recharge took about 90 minutes.
I would suggest going to a Ford dealer where they frequently service motorhomes. An earlier Ford dealer was unsuccessful in diagnosing the problem.
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10-12-2013, 12:14 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Lake Charles, La.
Posts: 1,536
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my first choice would be to try and get it fixed.
if u opt to charge the freon, charge vapor to the low side and shoot for a pressure between 30 and 35 lbs. (this will vary depending on the temperature inside the vehicle).
if u have the sight glass on the high side (discharge) of the compressor, looking for the bubbles to clear up is a good suggestion.
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10-12-2013, 07:57 AM
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#11
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Oklahoma Proud
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: central OK
Posts: 2,784
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Sorry about your troubles
From someone who does automotive ac work on a daily basis.
#1 if the seal is leaking a little now (add a can every week), within a few months (or days-you never know)it will be a can a day or worse. Fix the problem.
#2 if the seal is leaking than there is no need to flush the system, its a leak not a mechanical component failure that will send contaminants into the system.
#3 go with an OE compressor. Auto zone or oriellys reman. Compressors may sound great as they are cheaper, but we have had some that would not make it out of the shop doors without failing, and then your doing it again. And as much as most dealers charge for labor at $100+ an hour, I would only want to pay it once.
I hate to justify a cost cause I dont want to upset anybody, but brake down the cost.
$500 for ac compressor
$10-20 for orifice tube and oil
$30 at $12 a pound most have around 2-3 pounds for larger vehicles
$180- labor for evac and recharge. Book time for all smaller automotive systems is 1.8 hours
+2-4 hours @$100hr for compressor install its self- I dont know what book time would be on this. Of course the harder the access the more it will cost. I can see how $1,000 would be easy to hit.
- I did one on my little sisters sunfire and compessor, new line (about $45)(there was a rubbed area on the line) freon and oil, and I had about $450 in it and that was me getting employee- 10% over cost on parts & no labor.
Just a little perspective, not trying to ruffle any feathers
Edit-ps. I have never heard of any shop that will re-seal a compressor or any aftermarkets that do a real great job of it consistently.
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10-12-2013, 10:03 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 548
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The $500 (even $400) for labor is still WAY OFF.
The compressor on the F53 couldn't be any easier to get to, you don't even have to open the hood.
Lay on creeper, roll under bumper...that's all, it's RIGHT there! Nothing to take off or move out of the way, just go to work on IT.
__________________
2012 Georgetown 360
SHE wanted "a new motorhome"
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10-17-2013, 08:21 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Wherever we are parked!
Posts: 424
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OH NO! We are heading south from Vermont and finally hit warm enough weather here in North Georgia to turn the dash air on. It blew nothing but warm air! A year or so ago I felt like it was not working the way I thought it should and had a Ford truck service place take a look at it and they said that it just needed a little more Freon. It worked good for awhile but we have not needed it cause we have been parked for the last three months in Vermont while workamping at a state park. Guess I'll be taking it to the Ford place again. Guess I'll get an oil change while there. And I'll probably lean on them pretty hard to get me a new compressor while still under warranty. Wish me luck!
__________________
Lostdog
2011 Georgetown 378TS in FireMist
2013 Jeep Wrangler Toad
Kirby the Old Dog, passed but still in our hearts
Max E. Dog, the new pup
Eureka the Old Cat, still hangin' on
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10-17-2013, 11:51 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 407
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Dash A/C with 134 needs to be exercised fairly often or the seals will develop leaks. It is recommended that you run it for about a half hour a month to keep the seals from developing leaks, and to circulate the oil.
We live in the desert, and my sister forgets to turn the defroster on every stinking winter, since we have virtually no frost. Have to recharge her air every year. I have started making her pay for it, so maybe she'll remember now!
__________________
2005 Georgetown 342DS XL, Full Banks Package
2005 Liberty Renegade 4X Toad
1989 Wrangler Sahara Toad
1984 19.5' Beachcraft i/o 5.o liter, 4-bbl (and you thought your Moho sucked gas!)
D/W Carole and Maggie the Teacup Lab (Black Chihuahua)
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10-17-2013, 09:56 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 498
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Mine too
My compressor failed on its maiden voyage. 2012 360DS. Gator Ford in Tampa replaced it under warranty. Been working fine since. One year left on warranty so who knows?
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10-18-2013, 09:33 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Bridgewater, NJ
Posts: 158
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Some information on Georgetown/Ford AC systems. The correct pressure on the low side is 10 psi and high side 150 psi. The systems do not use an expansion valve and they flood the system. There are two types of Condensers used in fords. The Old fashion is made with fins as a radiator is. That system takes 2.75 pounds of freon to fully charge. The new on is a silver one without fins. That system full charge is 1.75 pounds.
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10-19-2013, 09:23 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 7,948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by intercept
Some information on Georgetown/Ford AC systems. The correct pressure on the low side is 10 psi and high side 150 psi. The systems do not use an expansion valve and they flood the system. There are two types of Condensers used in fords. The Old fashion is made with fins as a radiator is. That system takes 2.75 pounds of freon to fully charge. The new on is a silver one without fins. That system full charge is 1.7nd5 pous.
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Here is a picture of my 2012.
I guess it show fins. Haven't seen any without fins in a Georgetown.. Have you?
When Ford replaced my compressor they added 36 oz of R134a Freon at approx. 95 degrees ambient temp
Also it seem the AC compressor is the same part # since 2003
YCC-187 FORD F550 SUPER DUTY
6.8L A/C COMPRESSOR 6U9Z-19703-A
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10-30-2013, 07:41 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Wherever we are parked!
Posts: 424
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lostdog
OH NO! We are heading south from Vermont and finally hit warm enough weather here in North Georgia to turn the dash air on. It blew nothing but warm air! A year or so ago I felt like it was not working the way I thought it should and had a Ford truck service place take a look at it and they said that it just needed a little more Freon. It worked good for awhile but we have not needed it cause we have been parked for the last three months in Vermont while workamping at a state park. Guess I'll be taking it to the Ford place again. Guess I'll get an oil change while there. And I'll probably lean on them pretty hard to get me a new compressor while still under warranty. Wish me luck!
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Took the coach into the Ford dealer and they found that the "split compressor case" was cracked. They also stated that "this is frequent with the MotorCraft compressors". All was fixed under warranty but now I have little confidence that the new compressor will have any length of life.
__________________
Lostdog
2011 Georgetown 378TS in FireMist
2013 Jeep Wrangler Toad
Kirby the Old Dog, passed but still in our hearts
Max E. Dog, the new pup
Eureka the Old Cat, still hangin' on
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10-30-2013, 10:49 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Bridgewater, NJ
Posts: 158
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Mine is in the shop with AC Freon leaks too. Looks like Iggy's dealer split the 28 or 44 ounce ratings of the two condenser types in half at 36 ounces. The most critical method of charging is reading ~10 to 15 PSI on the low side with 80 F ambient air outside and the air on recirculate and 1500 rpm on the engine. The hotter ambient (95 F) air will raise the low side some but not a great amount. Don't make the mistake of using the expansion system auto air readings of 35 PSI+ for the low side. That will overcharge the system and raise the high side above the 150 range and possibly cause leaks.
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