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Old 04-29-2013, 08:35 PM   #1
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Chassis Information for the 2012 Georgetown

Hi,

I have attached the Ford chassis data for all.

The 2012 Georgetown uses the 22,000 pound chassis
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 12_F53 F59_SB.pdf (279.7 KB, 131 views)
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Old 04-30-2013, 12:58 AM   #2
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intercept

Hi and thank you. We have had that document floating around here but it is nice that it pops up for the new folks.

If you need any more information being new feel free to ask away.
We have lots of stuff here for the F53 22k chassis as well as others.


Iggy


Have you done the swaybar mod?
It is shortening the linkage on both sides of the front and rear swaybar to the other set of holes ?

Many of us have done this and it helps a lot on turns and side sway.
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Old 04-30-2013, 12:54 PM   #3
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Chassis info

Iggy,

This is a great forum and the info is super.
Although I am a newbie here I have 40 years in the RV fix everything you need to game and I have never seen the kind of real help anywhere but here.

This my first FR product and although I have been disappointed with the attention to detail and lack of engineering on some items we still love the unit.

I have 13 months on this unit and 6 of them were at the dealers for repairs of stupid stuff that the factory messed up on.

One of them was replacing the lippert 3 step unit four times.
I had them do a modification to the 4th step so the cam bolt doesn't break and it seems to work really great. I will post this on a seperate thread.

I have not known about the suspension fix you mentioned. I have added a Roadmaster rear sway bar and a TruCenter steering unit to the front. I was not happy with the 160 lb Tru Center and had them upgrade me to the diesel model 230 lb unit. It works much better on the 22,000 lb chassis.

Please send me the links for the suspension fixes you mentioned.

BTW. I purchased the ford official service manual for the chassis on CD.
It has everything electrical and mechanical and I can most likely help supply info on the chassis like where connectors are, what the lins connect to and all kinds of stuff that is tough to find, so just link me up when you need to.

Thanks
Intercept
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Old 04-30-2013, 02:05 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by intercept View Post
Iggy,

This is a great forum and the info is super.
Although I am a newbie here I have 40 years in the RV fix everything you need to game and I have never seen the kind of real help anywhere but here.

This my first FR product and although I have been disappointed with the attention to detail and lack of engineering on some items we still love the unit.

I have 13 months on this unit and 6 of them were at the dealers for repairs of stupid stuff that the factory messed up on.

One of them was replacing the lippert 3 step unit four times.
I had them do a modification to the 4th step so the cam bolt doesn't break and it seems to work really great. I will post this on a seperate thread.

I have not known about the suspension fix you mentioned. I have added a Roadmaster rear sway bar and a TruCenter steering unit to the front. I was not happy with the 160 lb Tru Center and had them upgrade me to the diesel model 230 lb unit. It works much better on the 22,000 lb chassis.

Please send me the links for the suspension fixes you mentioned.

BTW. I purchased the ford official service manual for the chassis on CD.
It has everything electrical and mechanical and I can most likely help supply info on the chassis like where connectors are, what the lins connect to and all kinds of stuff that is tough to find, so just link me up when you need to.

Thanks
Intercept


I also have many years RVing and I also made sure everything was fixed int he first year. The biggest thing was I had them replace all the hydralic lines as they started to fail early and I called lippert about it after 3 lines failed. That was my biggest worry. I have over 16,000 miles on the rig and I have owned it just 1 year.

The mod on the swaybar is just moving the bolts from the present loction to the inner hole which stiffens the whole sway bar. Has worked for me and many others and seems to be acceptable with Ford.
Here is the long forum message area that talks about it.
Ford Chassis Questions

That CD must be worth it especially if it has the wiring diagrams for the bare chassis. By the way I have great confidence in the engine drive train Ford put together. Solid as a rock and performs flawlessly.

Thanks
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Old 04-30-2013, 03:31 PM   #5
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Intercept, go to the irv2.com forum and look up the Ford Cheap Handling Fix. There you'll find several years of discussion, some very technical and engineer speak on moving the sway bar mounting bolts. Time permits, I plan on moving mine this weekend.
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Old 05-01-2013, 09:56 PM   #6
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Thanks for the suspension fix info

Thanks for the suspension fix info.

Looks like a no brainer.

Iggy, I saw where someone replaced the links with an adjustable link. I measured the stock link at 10.5 " (bolt center to center). When I measured the link length to the second hole it looks to be about 13" I am wondering if it makes sense to replace the stock link with a 13" one. The reason would be----as you raise the coach with the leveling system the sway bar links would lift the wheels off of the ground 2.5" sooner than when the links were in the from hole. That might be something the Ford people would not consider with a stripped chassis.

I have been trying to get the dealer to replace my lippert hydro pump since I noticed it wet. He cleaned it up and said he couldn't find a leak but I don't really want to trust that it doesn't have a leak. Can you send me your contact at Lippert?

BTW the sway bar links should be Torqued to 66 foot lbs by the Ford Book.

Thanks,
Intercept
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Old 05-01-2013, 10:31 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by intercept View Post
Thanks for the suspension fix info.

Looks like a no brainer.

Iggy, I saw where someone replaced the links with an adjustable link. I measured the stock link at 10.5 " (bolt center to center). When I measured the link length to the second hole it looks to be about 13" I am wondering if it makes sense to replace the stock link with a 13" one. The reason would be----as you raise the coach with the leveling system the sway bar links would lift the wheels off of the ground 2.5" sooner than when the links were in the from hole. That might be something the Ford people would not consider with a stripped chassis.

I have been trying to get the dealer to replace my lippert hydro pump since I noticed it wet. He cleaned it up and said he couldn't find a leak but I don't really want to trust that it doesn't have a leak. Can you send me your contact at Lippert?

BTW the sway bar links should be Torqued to 66 foot lbs by the Ford Book.

Thanks,
Intercept
1. the pump is wet it is leaking from the hoses or the seal between pump and tank. Make sure he finds the source and its documented just in case it continues.

2. Yes you can buy adj links but that guy is the only one I know of that did it. I used the existing one with no problems and I have 16,000 on my rig in the past year.

3. The contact direct line to lippert is in your manual.
Called Lippert technical service 1-866-534-7821
Really you need the dealer to find the leak or replace whatever is leaking.
If you wipe things down what actually get wet with fluid?



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Old 05-03-2013, 10:42 AM   #8
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Well the weather has been great in Western New York to I decided to do the front sway bar adjustment the other day. Had no problem breaking loose the bolts from the links to the sway bar. However, the four bolts holding the sway bar to the axle were another story. I should of used Liquid Wrench on the rusted bolts and nuts while I started with the link bolts. Took all the strength I had with a 2 1/2 foot breaker bar to break them free. Also, found that a 15mm socket fit better than a 5/8's on the bolt head, thought I was going to strip one of them they were so tight. Oh well, the front is done, perhaps if time permits this weekend I will do the rear, albeit using Liquid Wrench first.

Beautiful weather and I can't wait to get out camping!
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:03 PM   #9
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Sherman, question? Why did you have to take the sway bar a loose from the axle? I did not have to do this and don't remember anyone saying they had to.
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Old 05-04-2013, 09:32 AM   #10
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That was the only way I could get the sway bar rear holes to line up with the link. I had to loosen the brackets to move the sway bar up.
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