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Old 07-20-2014, 02:01 PM   #21
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LOL, thanks. Since my technical expertise maxes out at a 3, it should still be in my range. Thanks again.

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Old 07-20-2014, 02:46 PM   #22
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So I have seen reference to this CHF for some time now. I have a 2013 351DS and after putting another 2K miles on over the summer (up to just a tick over 10K), I am starting to think I need to do this. My previous RV was a F250 Diesel Crew LB pulling a 34' travel trailer and it honestly was a dream to drive and tow. To me, it was 10x better than driving the MH, but, having happy DW and kids makes me deal with it all.

So, now I am seriously thinking about doing at least the front. It really isn't terrible to drive, but I really think it should be a lot easier. I followed a lot of the links looking for some pictures of the front Sway setup but no luck. I did see the comments a couple posts ago about leaving the RV on the ground, then just using the jack to help with the second side of the sway bar change.

Anyone have any other comments on the technique? Or, any comments on doing this to a 2013 351DS?

Thanks to all....

2013 Georgetown 351
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Old 07-20-2014, 06:55 PM   #23
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The good pictures on iRV2 post # 24 on 08/16/10 have been removed

Here's a link to post #31 of 2390 (at 4:36PM)

Cheap Handling Fix - Page 3 - iRV2 Forums

1. remove passenger sway bar bolt.
2. remove driver side sway bar bolt.
3. raise drivers side
4. insert bolt removed in step 2
5. insert bolt removed in step 1 (pictured in the link). This is where you use the jack to help align the holes for the bolt.

Same process for the rear
3a. rotating bracket 180*

That's what all the thousands of posts are all about.
2012 Georgetown 360
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Old 07-22-2014, 07:17 PM   #24
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I did the CHF on my 2007 georgtown 340. I am happy with the results. It took less than 30 minutes. The roads are so rough around here it made a noticeable difference. we have had a lot more wind this year also, and the side buffeting is better. I did use a floor jack to help align the holes for inserting the bolts back in.
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Old 07-24-2014, 02:48 PM   #25
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I went to my local goodyear dealer for the CHF as I am not so mechanically inclined. They did the front with no problem, but found a broken bracket on the rear drivers side and said the bushings were a joke. Front end had the blue poly bushings and the rear had nothing more than what appeared to be rubber hoses stuck in the holes. So, it's off to Ford where "Quality is Job one"! BTW drives great now! 2013 GT 351DS
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Old 08-12-2014, 07:43 PM   #26
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So after procrastinating for a year, I finally did the CHF on our 2013 351DS. I kept putting it off because didn't think it handled that badly but after the fix, I realized just how much difference it makes. Passing trucks aren't nearly as much of an issue and much of my driving time is now one handed. Just returned from a 2200 mile round trip and couldn't be happier. Even on stretches of I-40, where, I'm convinced, driving on the parallel railroad tracks would have been smoother, the handling and response was much better. If you're thinking about it, don't put it off like I did. It's relatively easy and the results are fantastic. Just do it!

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Old 08-12-2014, 10:36 PM   #27
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 32
I did the front sway bar portion of the CHF some miles ago. Noted several comments on line that there were no ill effects from the change, only positive ones. I believe that a Ford rep/engineer chimed in to say there would be no adverse effects from changing the mounting of the control arms to the inside holes. I would also imagine the positive reports were from US highways and perhaps some "rough" US secondary roads. WELL!!
I am 6k miles into a 10k trip. Across Alberta and British Columbia to join the Alaskan Highway. Some sections of the roads were absolutely horrendous!!. Even slowing down to walking speed at some points was not enough. The left control arm for the sway bar snapped in half. I called ahead to Fairbanks, AK to have a replacement ordered in. A combination of the bumps and additional torque/tension/stress put on the control arm by moving it inward caused the arm to fail.
SO, be careful with the fix. Don't do it if you plan the Alcan. Other than that , this 2013 GT 378 has been great on this trip, even traversing the Top of the World Highway
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Old 08-13-2014, 08:37 PM   #28
Join Date: Mar 2014
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Cheap Handling Fix

I read where a Ford engineer said it's not a good idea to make this change for the reason you are talking about. It was somewhere on an IRV2 thread but I couldn't find it again. My GT 328TS handles great without making this change, but I've had people on these threads tell me that I'm full of it. Oh well. Just look far down the road to keep oversteer to a minimum and it handles handed most of the time. I'll get challenged again. Lol. Good luck on your trip!

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Old 08-13-2014, 09:57 PM   #29
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Southern California
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I did both front and rear right before a 1800 mile trip last month because I was beginning to think I was a fool for not doing it - since everyone says this a no brainer. I had no issues prior to doing it and to be honest really didn't notice much of a difference after. But now my leveling jacks are a problem - I hit auto at the first campground since doing it and my rear tires lifted off the ground! Thinking now this was a big mistake and am going to revert back.
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Old 08-14-2014, 08:14 AM   #30
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Don't think that the CHF has anything to do with your jacks, though the CHP may limit your axle movement slightly. Can you level in manual? If so recalibrate your auto level.

2011 Georgetown 378TS in FireMist
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