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Old 02-25-2015, 02:39 PM   #41
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You can use the same bolts

When you unhook the current sway bar bolts, your sway bar will swivel up and you can then use the same bolts. Just make sure you torque the bolts to the specified tension. I read that it is 66 pounds, but please don't rely on my memory, check with the manufacturer, or someone else on here might have the correct tension. You will see a dramatic change in handling. The only thing I have seen that is nerve wracking is that every time I hear a new noise I wonder if it is from my CHF.

Sure it isn't but I am constantly listening for things when driving.
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Old 02-26-2015, 07:44 PM   #42
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66 foot Pounds is correct.
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Old 07-01-2015, 09:52 PM   #43
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Some folks advocate replacing the stock links with aftermarket or modified links that are longer in order to maintain original sway bar geometry when moving the link attachment to the second hole. I found out via an unplanned comparison that for me the CHF improvement was much more dramatic/better using the original equipment front links rather than the aftermarket adjustable Hellwig links adjusted about 2 inches longer to maintain original sway bar angle. I liked the stock links moved to the second hole better.
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Old 07-01-2015, 11:58 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGalt1061 View Post
Some folks advocate replacing the stock links with aftermarket or modified links that are longer in order to maintain original sway bar geometry when moving the link attachment to the second hole. I found out via an unplanned comparison that for me the CHF improvement was much more dramatic/better using the original equipment front links rather than the aftermarket adjustable Hellwig links adjusted about 2 inches longer to maintain original sway bar angle. I liked the stock links moved to the second hole better.

Welcome to the forum Jeff and your first post.
We are all here to help each other out when their new Georgetown is home.

I think most just did the CHF without buying any additional links.
Some had some issues of space when changing to the other hole and the leaf springs. I found that this may happen when the sway bar is not properly centered which can easily be solved by loosening the 2 U clamps slightly to move the sway bar right or left a little.
Glad things went well with you.
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Old 07-02-2015, 05:49 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGalt1061 View Post
Some folks advocate replacing the stock links with aftermarket or modified links that are longer in order to maintain original sway bar geometry when moving the link attachment to the second hole. I found out via an unplanned comparison that for me the CHF improvement was much more dramatic/better using the original equipment front links rather than the aftermarket adjustable Hellwig links adjusted about 2 inches longer to maintain original sway bar angle. I liked the stock links moved to the second hole better.
I just used the stock links on mine and have no problems. I believe the another issue with using the shorter stock links is causing the front tires to lift off the ground when leveling. The only time I have that problem is if I use the auto level. But, auto level did that before I changed the sway bar also.
I almost always use the manual level and have no problems with the tires lifting off the ground on my 351.
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Old 07-02-2015, 08:30 AM   #46
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I was in a conversation on another forum about the CHF. There doesn't seem to be any long term issues from people who just moved the original links to the aft holes and did not bother extending them.

I think because the way the forces are applied to the links in the aft holes, The problems would show up as bushing wear/ deformation.

Anyway, I decided to extended my links by 2 inches because it provides the same geometry as the original lengths in the forward holes. I did this by cutting the links in half and inserting and welding them into a 10 inch piece of 1/2 water pipe.

Here are a couple drawings I did for the other thread that shops the geometry.

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Old 07-06-2015, 07:30 PM   #47
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Where can I get the instructions to do the CHF on my 2006 340 Georgetown.
Thanks


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Old 07-06-2015, 08:08 PM   #48
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I did a writeup on mine, I also replaced the bushings when at the same time I moved the links. Yours is probably similar. If you have the "Z" brackets on the front, you will not be able to re-use them.,

Cheap Handling Fix – and then some | 2001 Coachmen Mirada 300QB

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Old 07-06-2015, 09:43 PM   #49
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I beg to differ on my 06 340 I was able to use the z
brackets
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Old 07-07-2015, 08:19 AM   #50
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George -

If you are able to re-use the "Z" brackets and they won't hit the link, go for it. On my 2001, I even extended the links and still could not re-use the "Z" on the front bar as they would hit the links.

On the rear bar I was able to simply reverse the "Z" and they worked great.
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