Cheap Handling Fix - Page 3

Rongrice · 02-25-2015, 02:39 PM

When you unhook the current sway bar bolts, your sway bar will swivel up and you can then use the same bolts. Just make sure you torque the bolts to the specified tension. I read that it is 66 pounds, but please don't rely on my memory, check with the manufacturer, or someone else on here might have the correct tension. You will see a dramatic change in handling. The only thing I have seen that is nerve wracking is that every time I hear a new noise I wonder if it is from my CHF.

Sure it isn't but I am constantly listening for things when driving.

ramair · 02-26-2015, 07:44 PM

66 foot Pounds is correct.

JohnGalt1061 · 07-01-2015, 08:52 PM

Some folks advocate replacing the stock links with aftermarket or modified links that are longer in order to maintain original sway bar geometry when moving the link attachment to the second hole. I found out via an unplanned comparison that for me the CHF improvement was much more dramatic/better using the original equipment front links rather than the aftermarket adjustable Hellwig links adjusted about 2 inches longer to maintain original sway bar angle. I liked the stock links moved to the second hole better.

Iggy · 07-01-2015, 10:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnGalt1061

Some folks advocate replacing the stock links with aftermarket or modified links that are longer in order to maintain original sway bar geometry when moving the link attachment to the second hole. I found out via an unplanned comparison that for me the CHF improvement was much more dramatic/better using the original equipment front links rather than the aftermarket adjustable Hellwig links adjusted about 2 inches longer to maintain original sway bar angle. I liked the stock links moved to the second hole better.

Welcome to the forum Jeff and your first post.
We are all here to help each other out when their new Georgetown is home.

I think most just did the CHF without buying any additional links.
Some had some issues of space when changing to the other hole and the leaf springs. I found that this may happen when the sway bar is not properly centered which can easily be solved by loosening the 2 U clamps slightly to move the sway bar right or left a little.
Glad things went well with you.

cjd10 · 07-02-2015, 04:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnGalt1061

Some folks advocate replacing the stock links with aftermarket or modified links that are longer in order to maintain original sway bar geometry when moving the link attachment to the second hole. I found out via an unplanned comparison that for me the CHF improvement was much more dramatic/better using the original equipment front links rather than the aftermarket adjustable Hellwig links adjusted about 2 inches longer to maintain original sway bar angle. I liked the stock links moved to the second hole better.

I just used the stock links on mine and have no problems. I believe the another issue with using the shorter stock links is causing the front tires to lift off the ground when leveling. The only time I have that problem is if I use the auto level. But, auto level did that before I changed the sway bar also.
I almost always use the manual level and have no problems with the tires lifting off the ground on my 351.

waiter21 · 07-02-2015, 07:30 AM

I was in a conversation on another forum about the CHF. There doesn't seem to be any long term issues from people who just moved the original links to the aft holes and did not bother extending them.

I think because the way the forces are applied to the links in the aft holes, The problems would show up as bushing wear/ deformation.

Anyway, I decided to extended my links by 2 inches because it provides the same geometry as the original lengths in the forward holes. I did this by cutting the links in half and inserting and welding them into a 10 inch piece of 1/2 water pipe.

Here are a couple drawings I did for the other thread that shops the geometry.

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TomW · 07-06-2015, 06:30 PM

Where can I get the instructions to do the CHF on my 2006 340 Georgetown.
Thanks

TomW

waiter21 · 07-06-2015, 07:08 PM

I did a writeup on mine, I also replaced the bushings when at the same time I moved the links. Yours is probably similar. If you have the "Z" brackets on the front, you will not be able to re-use them.,

Cheap Handling Fix – and then some | 2001 Coachmen Mirada 300QB

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jergeod · 07-06-2015, 08:43 PM

I beg to differ on my 06 340 I was able to use the z
brackets

waiter21 · 07-07-2015, 07:19 AM

George -

If you are able to re-use the "Z" brackets and they won't hit the link, go for it. On my 2001, I even extended the links and still could not re-use the "Z" on the front bar as they would hit the links.

On the rear bar I was able to simply reverse the "Z" and they worked great.

jergeod · 07-07-2015, 08:54 AM

Yes a friend of mines 2000 that I did could not use the Z even after extending the link.

TomW · 07-08-2015, 09:37 PM

Thanks waiter21 for your help info
On the CHF.
I checked this morning, it does not have the Z bracket so should be simple fix.

TomW

cap2015 · 07-24-2015, 01:34 PM

Could someone please explain what the Cheap Handling Fix is? We have the 378TS and tried to have added sway bars installed only to find out it was impossible because the manufacturer welded our gas line to the axle!
I would not think this would be safe but anyways... if we can understand what the CHF is we should be able to get a better ride. Thanks!!

waiter21 · 07-24-2015, 02:06 PM

CHF - Not sure how depth you want., so we'll do this first.

The only thing the CHF does is to move the frame to torsion bar connecting links to a different mounting hole on the torsion bar. The aft mounting holes offer a stiffer torsion bar setting. This makes it more difficult to tilt the vehicle sideways (leaning) i.e. when a truck or a gust of wind tries to tilt the MH sideways, its harder to do that.

It should have little impact on ride comfort. In fact, I would say that if it does anything, it may actually help a little . i.e. if you hit a pothole on one side, the stiffer torsion bar will attempt to move the other side the same amount, and/or lessen the amount of vertical travel of the pot hole side.

Iggy · 07-24-2015, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cap2015

Could someone please explain what the Cheap Handling Fix is? We have the 378TS and tried to have added sway bars installed only to find out it was impossible because the manufacturer welded our gas line to the axle!
I would not think this would be safe but anyways... if we can understand what the CHF is we should be able to get a better ride. Thanks!!

Have you read this tread you will get lots of information. 6 pages.
Here is a picture of my rear axle sway bar.
Notice the bolt is NOW closer to the axle. It was moved from the other hole.
You do this on both links on the front and rear sway bar.
By moving the bolt closer to the axle it stiffens up the side way on turns and help when you have a strong side wind.
If you are not able to do this or understand you can have a professional do it for you.

360true · 08-20-2015, 08:04 PM

I too procrastinated. My dealer didn't know about it, I went to several heavy duty Ford dealers who said it might make a difference, but were unwilling to do it for me. Finally found a small RV Repair shop who did it. Thanks to all who provided the instructions as it gave us the confidence to make the mod.

What an outstanding difference! This should be part of a dealers prep before delivery.

Thanks.

waiter21 · 08-21-2015, 06:25 AM

^^ Yes. Its amazing that this one simple adjustment can make a huge difference in handling>

IGGY - Are those the original torsion bar brackets in your photo?

A note for the folks that own a newer F53 (say 2005 and up) keep an eye on the rear torsion bar brackets. They have a habit of breaking and bolts falling out. These are the brackets that hold the torsion bar to the axle.

Make it a pre/post trip inspection item.

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