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06-17-2014, 10:17 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 63
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Cheap Handling Fix
Well, I finally took the plunge and swapped out the front sway bar bolt holes and what a huge difference it made. I had procrastinated because I didn't know how difficult it would be, or if it would really make any difference.
Why did I wait this long?????
If you are on the fence whether or not to do this simple, and very effective fix, take the plunge and you will be amazed. I took my 2004, 375 XL on a rough back road, inner city streets, and I-5 freeway. WOW, what a dream to drive.
Wish I would have done it 4 years ago.
Ron
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06-18-2014, 08:01 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Wherever we are parked!
Posts: 424
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Congratulations. It just makes sense to do the easiest, cheapest fix before throwing money at it with aftermarket track bars and the like.
__________________
Lostdog
2011 Georgetown 378TS in FireMist
2013 Jeep Wrangler Toad
Kirby the Old Dog, passed but still in our hearts
Max E. Dog, the new pup
Eureka the Old Cat, still hangin' on
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06-18-2014, 11:52 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Uconn Country
Posts: 111
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I am doing this also....I initially put the stock brackets in the rearmost holes on the sway bar, and the clearance looked very tight to the springs. So I ordered the 11-14" adjustable hellwig brackets and will use those in conjunction with the stock sway bar.
__________________
2014 Georgetown XL 350TS
2014 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited
Front & Rear Roadmaster Sway Bars
Koni Shocks
Front and Rear Sumo Springs Jounce Replacement
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06-18-2014, 11:57 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Howie in the Hills, FL
Posts: 1,415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lostdog
Congratulations. It just makes sense to do the easiest, cheapest fix before throwing money at it with aftermarket track bars and the like.
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I agree with you. I bought the rear Trak Bar before doing the CHF. I think I would have never gotten the Trak Bar if I would have done the CHF first.
__________________
2014 Georgetown 351DS
-TruCenter -Front/Rear CHF -Hellwig Links -Tiger Trak -Ran McNally GPS -ScanGauge -Truck Systems TPMS -5 Star Tune
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06-18-2014, 12:01 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Howie in the Hills, FL
Posts: 1,415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willingtonpaul
i am doing this also....i initially put the stock brackets in the rearmost holes on the sway bar, and the clearance looked very tight to the springs. so i ordered the 11-14" adjustable hellwig brackets and will use those in conjunction with the stock sway bar.
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What are you thinking of doing as far as the bushings go. You can't use the Hellwig metal bushings and bolts because they are too small. I ended up installing the stock metal bushings into the Hellwig's rubber bushings to make it work. The problem is that the original Ford bushings are Poly and the Hellwigs are not.
__________________
2014 Georgetown 351DS
-TruCenter -Front/Rear CHF -Hellwig Links -Tiger Trak -Ran McNally GPS -ScanGauge -Truck Systems TPMS -5 Star Tune
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06-18-2014, 12:04 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Uconn Country
Posts: 111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alparmer
What are you thinking of doing as far as the bushings go. You can't use the Hellwig metal bushings and bolts because they are too small. I ended up installing the stock metal bushings into the Hellwig's rubber bushings to make it work. The problem is that the original Ford bushings are Poly and the Hellwigs are not.
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Had not gotten that far yet....hellwig brackets have not come yet...
__________________
2014 Georgetown XL 350TS
2014 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited
Front & Rear Roadmaster Sway Bars
Koni Shocks
Front and Rear Sumo Springs Jounce Replacement
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06-18-2014, 03:52 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Central upstate New York
Posts: 263
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I do not know how much the Hellwigs cost but it is very simple to just measure to get how much longer the stock ones need to be, have the stock ones cut, a piece of pipe added to give you stock height of the sway bar when installed in rear hole, weld it or have someone or shop weld them and presto you are on your way. I did my own and it took a whole 10 minutes to extend them and another 5 to install them back. Beware this is for those that hate to spend money. Thats me.
__________________
George & Jerri
06 GT 340 TSSE
USMC
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06-20-2014, 12:17 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Houston
Posts: 13
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I have decided to do the CHF, and thought that I saw in the past someone had posted the bolt/wrench size. I have a 2014 378TS, sorry but I could not find in my search.
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06-20-2014, 06:11 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Holland, MI
Posts: 114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rongrice
Well, I finally took the plunge and swapped out the front sway bar bolt holes and what a huge difference it made. I had procrastinated because I didn't know how difficult it would be, or if it would really make any difference.
Why did I wait this long?????
If you are on the fence whether or not to do this simple, and very effective fix, take the plunge and you will be amazed. I took my 2004, 375 XL on a rough back road, inner city streets, and I-5 freeway. WOW, what a dream to drive.
Wish I would have done it 4 years ago.
Ron
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Being relatively new to MH driving, I have to ask, what were the issues with handling that caused you to consider this mod?
Was this simply a matter of moving an end of the bar from one hole to another, or were parts / special tools needed? I'd like more details please.
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06-25-2014, 11:39 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: St Joseph, MI
Posts: 39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Sullivan
Being relatively new to MH driving, I have to ask, what were the issues with handling that caused you to consider this mod?
Was this simply a matter of moving an end of the bar from one hole to another, or were parts / special tools needed? I'd like more details please.
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Here is a link to what the mod looks like.
index.html
__________________
2001 Georgetown 346S
CHF, Roadmaster Stabilizer
5 Star Tuner, Ultra RV Trac Bar
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06-25-2014, 11:43 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: St Joseph, MI
Posts: 39
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[QUOTE=alparmer;638129]What are you thinking of doing as far as the bushings go. You can't use the Hellwig metal bushings and bolts because they are too small. I ended up installing the stock metal bushings into the Hellwig's rubber bushings to make it work. The problem is that the original Ford bushings are Poly and the Hellwigs are not.[/QUOTE]
Older F53 Chassis did not have Poly bushings. I'm not sure what year Ford started with the poly bushings. The Hellwig links do have poly bushings.
Specs: Brand: Hellwig
Manufacturer's Part Number:7962
Part Type: Sway Bar End Links
Product Line: Hellwig Adjustable End Links
Summit Racing Part Number: HEL-7962
UPC:745662079628
Bushing Material:Polyurethane
Bushing Color:Black
End Link Bushings Included:Yes
Frame Bushings Included:Yes
Frame Bushings Greasable:No
Washers Included:Yes
Bolts Included:Yes
Quantity:Sold as a pair.
Notes:Adjustable from 11 in. to 14 in. eyelet to eyelet. Converts bayonet and stem-style end links to heavy-duty bushings.
__________________
2001 Georgetown 346S
CHF, Roadmaster Stabilizer
5 Star Tuner, Ultra RV Trac Bar
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06-26-2014, 07:57 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Howie in the Hills, FL
Posts: 1,415
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[QUOTE=Bob G;644122]
Quote:
Originally Posted by alparmer
What are you thinking of doing as far as the bushings go. You can't use the Hellwig metal bushings and bolts because they are too small. I ended up installing the stock metal bushings into the Hellwig's rubber bushings to make it work. The problem is that the original Ford bushings are Poly and the Hellwigs are not.[/QUOTE]
Older F53 Chassis did not have Poly bushings. I'm not sure what year Ford started with the poly bushings. The Hellwig links do have poly bushings.
Specs: Brand: Hellwig
Manufacturer's Part Number:7962
Part Type: Sway Bar End Links
Product Line: Hellwig Adjustable End Links
Summit Racing Part Number: HEL-7962
UPC:745662079628
Bushing Material:Polyurethane
Bushing Color:Black
End Link Bushings Included:Yes
Frame Bushings Included:Yes
Frame Bushings Greasable:No
Washers Included:Yes
Bolts Included:Yes
Quantity:Sold as a pair.
Notes:Adjustable from 11 in. to 14 in. eyelet to eyelet. Converts bayonet and stem-style end links to heavy-duty bushings.
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Thanks for the specs. I wonder if the Hellwig bushings are softer since they are not designed for the F53 chassis.
__________________
2014 Georgetown 351DS
-TruCenter -Front/Rear CHF -Hellwig Links -Tiger Trak -Ran McNally GPS -ScanGauge -Truck Systems TPMS -5 Star Tune
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06-26-2014, 08:49 AM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: St Joseph, MI
Posts: 39
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The Hellwig bushings are softer. The Ford bolt bushings slipped in the poly bushings to replace the Hellwig bolt bushings so you can use the Ford bolts. www.IRV2.com has alot of information about the CHF. look under the Ford Chassis section. If I had to do it again, I would just take the Ford sway bar links to a welder and have him lenghten them (which I did after installing the Hellwig links so I have them handy if needed)
__________________
2001 Georgetown 346S
CHF, Roadmaster Stabilizer
5 Star Tuner, Ultra RV Trac Bar
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06-26-2014, 12:58 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Sullivan
Being relatively new to MH driving, I have to ask, what were the issues with handling that caused you to consider this mod?
Was this simply a matter of moving an end of the bar from one hole to another, or were parts / special tools needed? I'd like more details please.
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Jim, I was tired of the excessive sway, and my MH driving like a ship on rolling waves going down the hwy. it is a very simple fix, and yes you just swap out the bolts from the end hole on the sway bar to the inner hole. I raised the front end with my jacks, then used a floor jack to help raise the sway bar. Very little effort.
Greased everything under the MH while I was under there.
Don't let any lack of mechanical experience hold you back, the most difficult thing for me was admitting Ford was using metric bolts. Hate those things.
Ron
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06-26-2014, 01:54 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Holland, MI
Posts: 114
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Thanks. That's what I needed to know.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Forest River Forums mobile app
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07-19-2014, 03:15 PM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 22
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Awhile back, someone posted the correct foot pounds to tighten the bolts for the CHF. Unfortunately, I can't find that post. Anyone know?
Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums
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07-19-2014, 09:15 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpow
Awhile back, someone posted the correct foot pounds to tighten the bolts for the CHF. Unfortunately, I can't find that post. Anyone know?
Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums
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http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...n-38947-2.html
post #13... "The Ford manual calls for 66 ft lbs of torque for all of the fasteners on the sway bar/link assemblies."
__________________
2012 Georgetown 360
SHE wanted "a new motorhome"
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07-19-2014, 09:17 PM
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#18
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 22
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Thank you!
Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums
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07-20-2014, 10:26 AM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 22
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One other question-do I need to have the jacks down before attempting the CHF or not?
Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums
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07-20-2014, 11:19 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpow
One other question-do I need to have the jacks down before attempting the CHF or not?
Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums
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No jack S
All you need is a dry place to park.
Ratchet, 15mm and 18mm sockets and a small jack, the one in your car should work.
The jack is used to lift the sway bar AFTER you've done ONE side.
If you've ever used hand tools then on a scale of 1 to 10 (1 being putting air in a tire) then this is a 2 . The back is a little more complicated, you have to rotate the bracket on each end of the sway bar, that make it a 2.5 on our 1 to 10 scale .
__________________
2012 Georgetown 360
SHE wanted "a new motorhome"
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