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Old 07-21-2016, 11:58 PM   #41
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Thank you and I spoke to John. I was going to have T and W do our alignment, is that not good? I'm printing off the Sumos springs information and meeting with him. Thanks for the confidence.

We use tulsa auto spring a lot thru the business I work for, large trucks. I don't have a preference about T&W personally, I am happy with the work I've dealt with TAS over the past 4 years.


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Old 07-22-2016, 07:44 AM   #42
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Thank you very much and my issue is I am relationship person with my dealership. It seems once you get out of the normal stuff with your motorhome it's difficult to know exactly where to go so I very much appreciate everyone's input. Again thanks for the site and all of you.
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Old 07-22-2016, 07:08 PM   #43
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Anyone know of someone in the Phoenix Arizona area that could add sumo springs? We get a lot of rocking left to right. Any other suggestions that could help with this? Thank you
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Old 07-23-2016, 09:13 AM   #44
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I've done about every steering & suspension mod you can think of on my 2015 GT 364: front and rear anti-sway bars, steering stabilizer, rear track bar, wheel alignment and finally Sumo Springs. The Sumos have probably done the most to reduce sway and improve the ride. If you have DIY skills, it's quite easy on the front - on each side you just undo one bolt to remove the old rubber stopper in the leaf spring, drill one hole in the frame and add two U-bolts. You'll probably save $200-$300.
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Old 12-29-2016, 05:53 PM   #45
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I recently had a chance to speak to a Ford engineer who works on the F53 platform. He told me that they have tested the front sway bar connected to the inner holes and that it doesn't pass their endurance testing in that configuration. The additional tension on the sway bar will eventually break the sway bar. If you are going to increase the tension on the sway bar you need a larger diameter sway bar. The inner holes are a left over from a previous design that connected to the frame in a different location. They have not redesigned the sway bar to remove the holes for cost reasons. He strongly advised me not to connect the sway bar using the inner holes.
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Old 12-31-2016, 08:37 PM   #46
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Al B

Cheap Handling Fix is moving the anti sway bars to the stiffer position. On the sway bars are two sets of holes for the link that connects to the frame. Moving he link to the rear hole stiffens the anti sway bars. This makes for a slightly stiffer ride, but really improved body sway issues including cross winds. Easy and free. Changed my 378 from a white knuckled ride to an enjoyable ride.
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Old 12-31-2016, 08:48 PM   #47
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When I spoke to Ford three or so years ago about changing the anti sway bars on the F550 motorhome super duty chassis, he told me that is what the extra hole was for, and when the chassis left the factory they were set in the less stiff position because the chassis is used for numerous applications. Surprised at the different answers from the factory.
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Old 01-01-2017, 11:11 PM   #48
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Well I'll keep the CHF on my rig. If the sway bar breaks THEN I'll go and buy a Roadmaster or Blue Ox. That's all i've done to the chassis and it drives just fine. I do check the bushing bolts once in a while and so far they are tight.
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Old 01-10-2017, 08:15 AM   #49
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Is there anyone with a 2017 329ds who has tried the CHF. I tried to do the front, I had interference with passenger side leaf springs. So I put back together. I looked at rear and it looked like my clearance on swaybar to rear end was going to be real close to hitting. I did have the coach on leveler which I believe someone said do chef on ground. A bit confusing if things interfere on levelers why would I proceed? Just wondering if any with this coach has done the modification
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Old 05-27-2017, 12:01 PM   #50
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Well, I finally broke down and performed both front and rear CHF on my 2016 FR3 30DS. Let me just say that I am adding a big "WOW" to this thread. The difference is amazing. I've been traveling a number of narrow two-lane roads and handling has been somewhat stressful. Today I was able to drive the same roads with little to no sway. Definitely more enjoyable! Headed to Desoto Falls State Park next week, so we'll see how it does on the open road. Many thanks to all of those that contributed to and shared their experience in bringing this awesome "fix" to everyone's attention.
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Old 05-27-2017, 05:24 PM   #51
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Can you do a CHF also on the rear of a 378?
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Old 05-27-2017, 05:40 PM   #52
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Can you do a CHF also on the rear of a 378?
Of course, what are you waiting for?
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Old 05-30-2017, 05:49 PM   #53
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I have a 2015 FR-3 and have done the CHF. Along with that I put on a new set of Koni shocks 100% difference and handles like a champ now!!!
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Old 07-20-2017, 08:52 AM   #54
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CHF on a 2016 FR FR3 30DS

I have looked at all the reviews and how-to, on a F53 chassis. The manual that came with my late 2016 shows the chassis as a F550. I have not yet crawled under there yet, just wondering if the FIX will be the same. Anyone else with a F550 chassis done this FIX on theirs?

Thanks
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Old 07-20-2017, 03:29 PM   #55
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Is this an easy DIY fix that anyone can do? Does anything need to be supported when the bolts are taken out?
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Old 07-21-2017, 07:49 AM   #56
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Orider - F53 and F550 are same thing.



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Is this an easy DIY fix that anyone can do? Does anything need to be supported when the bolts are taken out?
Yes, If you own a 15mm and 18mm socket and wrench, you should be able to do it.

Although not necessary, I'd recommend extending the front links by 3 inches. Look at the article on how to do this, and also explains how the CHF works.

http://www.1999southwind.com/chf-che...-and-handling/

No, Maybe - when the links for the torsion bars are removed, the bar may swivel, and you may need a jack to push up on one side or the other to get the bolts back in.

IMPORTANT - If your F53 is newer than about 2006, you may have a problem with the rear torsion bar bolts falling out and bending the brackets. (these are the bolts that hold the torsion bar to the rear axle) Keep an eye on this. At your earliest convenience, remove the bolts, install blue locktite, then reinstall the bolts and torque to 65 ft lbs.
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Old 07-21-2017, 05:14 PM   #57
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Cheap Handling Fix - Any Regrets?

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Originally Posted by waiter21 View Post
Orider - F53 and F550 are same thing.



Yes, If you own a 15mm and 18mm socket and wrench, you should be able to do it.

Although not necessary, I'd recommend extending the front links by 3 inches. Look at the article on how to do this, and also explains how the CHF works.

http://www.1999southwind.com/chf-che...-and-handling/

No, Maybe - when the links for the torsion bars are removed, the bar may swivel, and you may need a jack to push up on one side or the other to get the bolts back in.

IMPORTANT - If your F53 is newer than about 2006, you may have a problem with the rear torsion bar bolts falling out and bending the brackets. (these are the bolts that hold the torsion bar to the rear axle) Keep an eye on this. At your earliest convenience, remove the bolts, install blue locktite, then reinstall the bolts and torque to 65 ft lbs.


I have a 2016. Is there any down side to the CHF?
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Old 07-22-2017, 07:48 AM   #58
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I have a 2016. Is there any down side to the CHF?
YES - You'll kick yourself in the butt for not finding out about this and doing it sooner.
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Old 07-22-2017, 02:15 PM   #59
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I have a two week old 2018 Georgetown 31L5 and I just got in the house after performing the CHF front and rear and installing a Roadmaster Reflex steering stabilizer. Yes I will report on handling improvements the next time I take her out. Wanted to comment that on my F550 chassis (2017 Ford Model year) when I did the front CHF I had to reverse the direction of the bolt connecting the link to the swaybar. With my front tires on 4" blocks the second hole on the swaybar was dead even with the leaf spring, not permitting insertion of the bolt from the outside in as from the factory in the factory setting. Little concerned with the protruding bolt, now on the outside, in relation to the leaf spring. Anyone else experience this or did the factory tweak the swaybar in 2017?
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Old 07-23-2017, 11:28 AM   #60
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I have looked at all the reviews and how-to, on a F53 chassis. The manual that came with my late 2016 shows the chassis as a F550. I have not yet crawled under there yet, just wondering if the FIX will be the same. Anyone else with a F550 chassis done this FIX on theirs?



Thanks


Yes I also have a 2017 Georgetown and the paperwork that came with it says the chassis is it F550 everyone else is telling me a Camping World and everyplace else that it is a F 53 I don't know what it is I did the cheap fix I also put sumo springs in and it didn't do anything
It's still drives where it wants it it's a real chore driving it not enjoyable
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