Cheapheat

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by HVACretired

Here is the link to one of the threads i've been on:
Cheap Heat now available direct - Page 4 - iRV2 Forums

I have checked the web site, what I saw was a electric heat strip being put in a furnace. The problem I see that it would take a 10KW heat strip to put out 34,000 BTU's same as my propane heater puts out. At 110V you would need a circuit of 42 amps just to make it work. My trailer is wired for 30 amps. My TT would not be able to run this option.

[Filthy Beast]

Another issue is that the circulation fan motor also drives the combustion vent motor, this would cause a portion on the heat from the return air to be transferred through the heat exchanger to the outside.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Filthy Beast

Another issue is that the circulation fan motor also drives the combustion vent motor, this would cause a portion on the heat from the return air to be transferred through the heat exchanger to the outside.

The heat loss is extremely small when compared to the loss when the furnace is actually being used with the gas. It would no different than the loss using Cheap Heat.

[Filthy Beast]

When heating with gas, the combustion chamber is heated transferring the heat to the inside so I am not sure of the point trying to be made. Of course, if at a site with electric that you are not being metered on it will be cheaper to run.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Filthy Beast

... this would cause a portion on the heat from the return air to be transferred through the heat exchanger to the outside.

Didn't understand the point of this and was just replying to it.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Filthy Beast

When heating with gas, the combustion chamber is heated transferring the heat to the inside so I am not sure of the point trying to be made. Of course, if at a site with electric that you are not being metered on it will be cheaper to run.

Even on an electric metered site, it is cheaper to use the electric than propane from our experience.

[caper]

I found that it would cost me $120 per month to heat with propane and it cost $65 per month to heat with 2 electric heaters. It is less expensive to heat with electric heaters. If I had a Costco that sold propane it would have been cheaper to run the TT on propane but when you are paying $1/lb for propane electric is much cheaper.

[Filthy Beast]

Originally Posted by caper

I found that it would cost me $120 per month to heat with propane and it cost $65 per month to heat with 2 electric heaters. It is less expensive to heat with electric heaters. If I had a Costco that sold propane it would have been cheaper to run the TT on propane but when you are paying $1/lb for propane electric is much cheaper.

I guess I am lucky because where I buy propane it is a little over 50 cents a pound. I would imagine that if you are on an extended trip you would pay the regional price. When we were in Nebraska it cost around 75 cents a pound.

[Filthy Beast]

Originally Posted by dunnnc

Didn't understand the point of this and was just replying to it.

I guess my point is that if paying for electric, you would probably be better off using electric space heaters because you keep all the heat inside as opposed to using a unit attached to the furnace that is transferring some of the heat outside in the same way as it transfers heat from the combustion to the inside.

[HVACretired]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

I have checked the web site, what I saw was a electric heat strip being put in a furnace. The problem I see that it would take a 10KW heat strip to put out 34,000 BTU's same as my propane heater puts out. At 110V you would need a circuit of 42 amps just to make it work. My trailer is wired for 30 amps. My TT would not be able to run this option.

Your missing the fact that a gas furnace is only 60% eff (that a documented fact) plus the electric heater has no pre purge or post purge. So.......... when you measure the true sensible heat out of the register over a one hour period (BTU's an Hour) you get about 18,000 out of 40,000 gas.
That being said (17,500 Btu's) 5000 watts = 21.7 amps per leg on a 50 amp service (which is actually a 230 VAC service). This is not much more than my two roof top AC's use during the summer.
Readers Digest version I have it installed in my 5th Wheel, Its cheaper to operate than gas and keeps the RV much more comfortable. Lastly I spent some time in Maryland where it was as low as one degree outside and the cheap heat system did a wonderful job, nice and toasty 72 inside WITH OUT ANY GAS.
Oh ya and there is no cold air coming out of the registers because there is no pre purge or post purge, Fan on Heat on-- Fan off Heat off.
But as you said if you only have a 30 amp service it won't work for you unless you upgrade to a 50 amp service (rvcomfortsystems.com have upgrade documents).
For those of you don’t have one and that think its BS don’t buy one, but please don’t talk smack to the people that have it and like it.

[OldCoot]

We use the Eden PURE and the furnace blower and are quite comfortable on a 30a service. What heat is transfered to the burner outlet is negligible and not worth even talking about. Just someone's way of trying to throw cold water on someone else's way of doing something. The Cheap Heat is a good way of getting around the propane furnace if you have the means to upgrade to the 50a service. All 3 systems work.

[HVACretired]

Originally Posted by dunnnc

We use the Eden PURE and the furnace blower and are quite comfortable on a 30a service. What heat is transfered to the burner outlet is negligible and not worth even talking about. Just someone's way of trying to throw cold water on someone else's way of doing something. The Cheap Heat is a good way of getting around the propane furnace if you have the means to upgrade to the 50a service. All 3 systems work.

What he said

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by dunnnc

The Cheap Heat is a good way of getting around the propane furnace if you have the means to upgrade to the 50a service.

From what I read of their site, it supposedly works on 30a service, too.

[Lynkage]

http://www.rvcomfortsystems.com/imag...uire_AddOn.png

[Witch Doctor]

I have no doubt that the system works well. I can understand why a person would have one installed and use it instead of propane. I guess it comes down to the your personnel use of your RV and if you are a full timer or like just camping in the very cold months, and where you stay or go in the winter months. It is a great idea just as a heat pump is, with emergency heat and for defrost cycle when the strips come on. If I were to order a new unit, I would order a heat pump instead of an A/C But still have the FAU also. Propane works great as a primary system and 12V blowers for boon-dockers. I guess their is room for everyone. Thanks for the web site and info...Who know maybe FR will offer this option one day. As for me to upgrade to 50 amp, I could just see the night mare now. I called FR and do you know they can not even supply a wiring diagram to me. They said no 2 units are the same. Happy Travels, and stay warm, I know you will.

[5fulltime]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

I have no doubt that the system works well. I can understand why a person would have one installed and use it instead of propane. I guess it comes down to the your personnel use of your RV and if you are a full timer or like just camping in the very cold months, and where you stay or go in the winter months. It is a great idea just as a heat pump is, with emergency heat and for defrost cycle when the strips come on. If I were to order a new unit, I would order a heat pump instead of an A/C But still have the FAU also. Propane works great as a primary system and 12V blowers for boon-dockers. I guess their is room for everyone. Thanks for the web site and info...Who know maybe FR will offer this option one day. As for me to upgrade to 50 amp, I could just see the night mare now. I called FR and do you know they can not even supply a wiring diagram to me. They said no 2 units are the same. Happy Travels, and stay warm, I know you will.

The heat pump only workd down to 40 degrees and them it swithes over to the gas furnace. If it does have a strip heater included in the AC its limited to 1800 watts so it really doesn't have enough capacity to heat a large RV much below 40 eather. Also the roof top units don't heat the under belly where the plumbing is. That being said for a smaller under 30 foot RV the roof heater will do a pertty good job even down in to the hi 20's. But for the fulltimers in the larger RV's that want to go Electric, RV comfort systems cheap heat is the only real answer.
The cheap heat is even endorsed by the RV doctor:
Best of the Road - News, Information and Travel Tips from Rand McNally's Best of the Road

[jar3316]

We use a little cosmos ceramic heater the thing is about 8"h 5"w 4"d and on its lowest setting it keeps the 26' no carpet trailer warm and on its lowest automatic temp setting its warmer than I like (74* but I like 70*) but my wife loves it. Our Gas furnace has some wild temp fluctuations about 5* from coldest to warmest.

We have been in temps down to low 30s and the little electric heater hardly runs. To be fare it runs all the time in a sort of maintaining state (cant tell it on except for the feel of heat) and then puts the spurs to it (heats up more and runs a fan hard) about once every hour or 2 for about 15 seconds. If someone goes in or out the door it turns on for about 5 seconds and temperature wise you cant tell.

Its a great way to edge the cold off, and with this setup if it does get cold enough for it to not keep up then the gas furnace will kick in and help it out. But that hasn't happened yet, we are going to spend a week in Death Valley over Christmas and New Years so we will see there.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by 5fulltime

The heat pump only workd down to 40 degrees and them it swithes over to the gas furnace. If it does have a strip heater included in the AC its limited to 1800 watts so it really doesn't have enough capacity to heat a large RV much below 40 eather. Also the roof top units don't heat the under belly where the plumbing is. That being said for a smaller under 30 foot RV the roof heater will do a pertty good job even down in to the hi 20's. But for the fulltimers in the larger RV's that want to go Electric, RV comfort systems cheap heat is the only real answer.
The cheap heat is even endorsed by the RV doctor:
Best of the Road - News, Information and Travel Tips from Rand McNally's Best of the Road

Fulltimer, What you have said is true, but I disagree with your temps. I have a duel system at home. Heat pump with oil back up. My oil side will not kick in until 30 degrees outside then the heat pumps is shut off. But when someone recommends Rand McNally I have a problem. There GPS will route you under a bridge that is to low even though that you you set your height at 36.5. This is their new trucker model. So once again just be where. As far as the RV Doctor, I would rather hear the folks on this forum. As I have stated above it depends on the person and what they use their RV's for. Also the word "CHEAP HEAT" and the cost do not add up. With saying that I have 31' Rockwood not a 40' plus MH. that I live in. Also I have owned my own HVAC company and retired from it in the 90's so I do understand the concept...

[trell]

Depending what the seer rating is on the h/p is how efficient it is.On a fossil fuel (i.e.gas, oil or others) you have a outdoor stat that you set for the secondary heat to come on and take the h/p out.

[tncruiser]

1500 watts of heat = 1500 watts of heat only a heat pump will give you more output than input,the neat thing about cheap heat is it is a nice installation but is not any different than using a 20 dollar electric space heater
brianj