Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-23-2014, 08:24 PM   #31
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Gahanna, OH
Posts: 1,414
Quote:
Originally Posted by SemperFi3088 View Post
How hard is this fix? Would I need to have the coaches jacks down?
You'll need to rent a crane to lift the front end and then have a NASA engineer move the end links to the inner holes of the sway bar. It is so easy to do that you'll be wondering why you didn't do it earlier.

Crawl down there and you will see that the sway bar has two positions. Outer, which is the OEM position, and inner, which is where you want to be. Remove the bolts on each end and reinstall them on the inner position...that's it. You may need a small jack to lift up one end of the sway bar incase the hole does not line up. You will notice the difference.
__________________

__________________
2014 Georgetown 351DS
-TruCenter -Front/Rear CHF -Hellwig Links -Tiger Trak -Ran McNally GPS -ScanGauge -Truck Systems TPMS -5 Star Tune
alparmer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2014, 08:26 PM   #32
Member
 
SemperFi3088's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 65
I guess if I can fix F/A 18's I can do that.
__________________

__________________
SemperFi3088 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2014, 08:33 PM   #33
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Gahanna, OH
Posts: 1,414
Quote:
Originally Posted by SemperFi3088 View Post
I guess if I can fix F/A 18's I can do that.
Oooh, flight line man. LOL.
__________________
2014 Georgetown 351DS
-TruCenter -Front/Rear CHF -Hellwig Links -Tiger Trak -Ran McNally GPS -ScanGauge -Truck Systems TPMS -5 Star Tune
alparmer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2014, 09:30 PM   #34
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 28
Al, Did you install the Hellwig links to the rear sway bar only? My tiger trac should be here on Wednesday.
__________________
pkhill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2014, 10:46 AM   #35
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Gahanna, OH
Posts: 1,414
Quote:
Originally Posted by pkhill View Post
Al, Did you install the Hellwig links to the rear sway bar only? My tiger trac should be here on Wednesday.
You don't need longer links in the rear. In our coach, the rear links are bigger than the front ones, and if you move them to the inner sway bar holes there is plenty of room for the bar to rotate. Our sway bar is in front of the pumpkin, while on other frames in in the back. You really don't need longer links in the front, but I really didn't like the bar hitting the leaf springs while leveling so I went ahead and install them.

What year and model is your GT? If it's like ours, I had to cut ~1" off of the trac bar. With the trac bar adjusted all of the way in, the holes would not line up. I had to make it a little bit shorter to make it fit. Not sure if it's something particular to our frame or what because Blue Ox never got back as to why it didn't fit without modification. One idea I have is that the rear axle is not perfectly centered on the frame. Only way to find out is with a 4 wheel alignment which I will be doing once FR approves it. Which reminds me that I need to contact them.

Let us know how your install goes.
__________________
2014 Georgetown 351DS
-TruCenter -Front/Rear CHF -Hellwig Links -Tiger Trak -Ran McNally GPS -ScanGauge -Truck Systems TPMS -5 Star Tune
alparmer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2014, 01:29 PM   #36
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: NW AR
Posts: 151
I first tried to post this on your original CHF thread. It took me 30 minutes to write it and when I tried to submit it they told me that the thread was more than 630 days old so I'm posting it here on this thread for some additional information regarding the CF.

TeJay

Hi again,
We used to have a FR product but switched to a different coach but it has the F-53 chassis. Did not realize the CHF has spread to the FR forum.

I've read the entire over 2,000 posts on the iRV2 forums regarding the CHF. It is approved by Ford as of lately. Some of lesser ability have had Ford dealers do the CHF.

Ford actually says that there are two holes put into the sway bars so the ride/sway can be adjusted. For a softer ride use the outer hole. For a stiffer ride use the inner hole. It comes from the factory with the softer ride setting.

There are individuals who have over 20,000 miles with no adverse issues. We have a 2014 coach (2013 chassis) and I did the CHF in a CG before we came home from Forest City Iowa where we picked up the coach. It only had 40 miles when I did the CHF. We now have 6,000 miles and no problems.

When you move to the inner hole it takes more energy (coach sway) to twist the spring steel anti-sway bar. There will be some added stress on the bar and the bushings. I'm not worried about the bar. Since Ford expects that the inner hole may be used I'm sure they are built for the extra stress. The stock bushings are not the best to begin with. Many a coach has had to replace the stock bushing with not a lot of miles on their coaches. I fully expect to replace the stock bushings with some blue poly bushings which are much better than stock.

For what ever reason some coaches do handle better than others right from the factory. There are many variables involved in the final handling and ride quality of any coach. Here's a list: make of tires, tire pressures, steering condition, leaf spring condition, leaf spring bushings, thickness of your stock sway bars, bushings, make of your track bars both front and rear, steer-safe, steering stabilizers, coach length and overhang, weight in holding tanks, etc, etc.

What works very well for one may not be as dramatic with another. All things considered the CHF does not hurt handling in any way shape or form and in most cases there is significant or dramatic improvement. Some have said that they wanted to sell their coach because of the way it handled and since the CHf they love it.

I built and installed my rear track rod and it only cost me $40. That was the last thing that I did before our trip to FL the end of Feb. It made a noticeable difference in overall ride and handling. Our F-53 2013 chassis came stock with a front but nothing in the rear. The track rod attaches the frame to the suspension limiting the sideways movement of the front/rear suspension from wind gusts.

TeJay
__________________
TeJay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2014, 01:35 PM   #37
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: NW AR
Posts: 151
Here's some information regarding the issue of links. Many who have made the CHF switch have never extended their links. Some have because they are worried about the fact that the bar is not as parallel as it was when stock. Here's what some have done. Move the rear links to the front because they are already longer. Cut the rear link rod in the middle and add (weld) a piece of square tubing stock and extend the front links (now in the back). Find a piece of tubing so the round rod will fit inside and weld it. That's what I'll do if I decide to make the switch so the links are closer to having the rod parallel with the ground.

Also some have had problems with the stock ford bolts not fitting into the Helwig links. Also make sure the bolts are torqued to 66 FT. LBS. I also use red-lock tight.

TeJay
__________________
TeJay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2014, 01:39 PM   #38
Fireman
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: New Brighton PA
Posts: 217
Send a message via AIM to dutch
TeJay

How did you built & install a Rear track rod for under $ 40.00?
__________________
2013 Georgetown XL 378
Toad 2012 Honda Civic
Dutch & Kathie & shitzue Buddy
US Air Force Retire SMS
dutch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2014, 03:00 PM   #39
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: NW AR
Posts: 151
dutch,
You can go to this web sight and see some nicely built track rods.

Oemy's Web Site - DIY Trac Bar

I'll tell you a little of what I did and if you want some pictures I can TRY to post some. I have not done that for some time on this forum but I'll give it a shot.

I used 1/2" plate steel and made a differential (DF) plate using 4 of the DF cover bolts and just replaced those four bolts with 4 longer ones.

The plate on the frame was also made out of 1/2" plate. There were already two holes drilled in the frame so I only had to drill one more. I used 1/2" grade 5 bolts for the frame mount.

The connecting link is really called a, "Top link" and is used on tractors when extra equipment is added. You can go to any tractor supply web sight and google top link. I bought one locally for $20. I needed one that would adjust down to about 17" and stretch out to about 24". Since it's just like a turnbuckle I wanted to have as much thread inside as I could so it would be stronger. It's closed size was 16" and I really needed about 17". The hole in the end of the link are 3/4" in diameter. If you find a link that has a 3/4" hole it's probably a CAT 2 in quality and that's plenty strong.

You may know how to make a gasket using card stock and a ball-pean hammer or you may not. It's fairly simple.
To make the plate for the DF I used some card stock cardboard thicker and stiffer, and used scissors to make a rough size. Once I got it right on the outside the next part is even easier. You have to locate and cut holes for the bolts. Using a ball-pean hammer just place the cardboard cutout over on of the holes while holding the cutout fairly close to the others. Now lightly hammer using the rounded side over the hole location and it will cut a perfect hole. Now put a bolt into that hole holding the cardboard in place and line up the remaining hole locations and the second hole. Once two are cut put that bolt in and the cardboard will stay. Hammer the last two out.

Even if you don't have access to a shop as I do make these out of cardboard and I don't think a metal shop would charge you more that $30-50 to make both brackets.

The top links are rated by a number system CAT 1, CAT 2, CAT 3 etc. The larger the number the heavier the link. Mine was a CAT 2 and it is plenty strong.

Like I said I can maybe send you some pictures. If you send me your e-mail address I can for sure send pics that way but that's up to you. I'm just not a familiar with posting pictures on some of these web sights.

I've got 2,000 miles since the track rod was installed and all is well.

Just let me know if you want to build one. I just could not see spending $300-500 for a track rod.
TeJay
4 years AF
Son it a LT. Col in AF
Brother is retired AF
I was also born in PA near Pittsburgh.
__________________
TeJay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2014, 11:15 AM   #40
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 28
Al
Thanks for the info. My coach is a 2013DS although purchased July 2014 (got a great deal!). Haven't check what year the frame is. I'll let you know how it goes.
__________________

__________________
pkhill is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:29 PM.