Cleaning and waxing your Georgetown

[Iggy]

Originally Posted by fbconsults

I read to be sure and use 100% cotton to buff. The ones that have polyester in them will eventually leave swirl marks, even if they do not show up at first.
Happy Trails, Forrest

They say the new soft microfiber seem to be the norm now.

Hard to find good quality soft cotton unless I use my DW towels.

[BamaBob]

Originally Posted by 360true

Bamabob... I have heard that the aircraft cleaner is really good to clean and wax, but how effective is it in removing scratches and swirl marks left by previous buffing?

I am not sure how it works removing swirl marks -I would follow Iggy's procedure there.

Then throw all that old school wax and buffers away and use Wash Wax All

Literally, it is a 2 step procedure:

1. Apply wash wax all solution to the wet side of the pad ; rub over area to be cleaned
2. Flip the pols over to the dry side pad and 2-3 strokes to buff the paint

you are done. Go to next section to be cleaned. Yes it is that easy.

[BamaBob]

Originally Posted by Iggy

They say the new soft microfiber seem to be the norm now.

Hard to find good quality soft cotton unless I use my DW towels.

X2, microfiber is the way to go. When you buy the Wash Wax All kit, they include microfiber cloths (and I think the pads for the pole are microfiber as well.)

[Iggy]

Originally Posted by BamaBob

I am not sure how it works removing swirl marks -I would follow Iggy's procedure there.

Then throw all that old school wax and buffers away and use Wash Wax All

Literally, it is a 2 step procedure:

1. Apply wash wax all solution to the wet side of the pad ; rub over area to be cleaned
2. Flip the pols over to the dry side pad and 2-3 strokes to buff the paint

you are done. Go to next section to be cleaned. Yes it is that easy.

I have used paste wax as well as waterless detailer sprays and they have done well.
My objective is to do a good wax job especially areas at the top of each sides which are about 11 ft to the roof edge.

With all the reading I have been doing detailing is actually a science that make all the wax manufacturers rich.
Anyway we will keep everyone posted on my success with before and after pictures.

[JerseyJerry]

Try. WWWAUTOGEEKS.COM for expertise

[Iggy]

Originally Posted by JerseyJerry

Try. WWWAUTOGEEKS.COM for expertise

Yes I have been watching all their video. It is very informative for anyone wanting more than just a basic wax job.
I plan on using their techniques when I do my motorhome.

My buffer and pads will arrive the end of the week.
I also ordered a gallon jug of this stuff.
It cleans waxes and seals all in one. Probably last me a few years.
I got the All-In-One gallon for $59 and free shipping and no tax.
If I bought smaller bottles 16 oz for $16-18 it comes out cheaper in the long run to buy the gallon. Anyone need any?

[JerseyJerry]

Look up Optimum Detailing Kit which comes with an orange,white and black pads.

[CTMDP]

Just for the heck of it I will throw my two cents into this thread. I go through quite a process when washing my 351DS. I use a portable scaffold purchased from Harbor Freight to get the top half. I go through the entire process (the length of the scaffold approx. 6 ft), get down move the scaffold and do the bottom section (four times per side). I use a spotless water system (only because we have hard water and I can't stand water spots) crspotless.com. I use Meguiar's Deep Crystal Car Wash (for soap). After rinsing I use Griot's Flexible Water Blade to remove most of the water. In the drying process I use Eagle 1 Wax as you Dry. I have no swirls. Since there is a water shortage here in Calif. I have been using a Waterless Wash & Wax System manufactured by Chemical Guys and if you want just pure shine I use Speed Wipe by Chemical Guys. I suggest you go on their website www.chemicalguys.com because they have everything when it comes to taking care of your car/rv including a wide selection of towels.

[CTMDP]

Originally Posted by CTMDP

Just for the heck of it I will throw my two cents into this thread. I go through quite a process when washing my 351DS. I use a portable scaffold purchased from Harbor Freight to get the top half. I go through the entire process (the length of the scaffold approx. 6 ft), get down move the scaffold and do the bottom section (four times per side). I use a spotless water system (only because we have hard water and I can't stand water spots) crspotless.com. I use Meguiar's Deep Crystal Car Wash (for soap). After rinsing I use Griot's Flexible Water Blade to remove most of the water. In the drying process I use Eagle 1 Wax as you Dry. I have no swirls. Since there is a water shortage here in Calif. I have been using a Waterless Wash & Wax System manufactured by Chemical Guys and if you want just pure shine I use Speed Wipe by Chemical Guys. I suggest you go on their website www.chemicalguys.com because they have everything when it comes to taking care of your car/rv including a wide selection of towels.

Sorry for the sideways photos. . . . . . here you go.

[ptillett]

I use Aerospace 303 on my RV, cars, and anything else that is exposed to elements (especially the sun). If you apply it as per the instructions, your RV will stay cleaner and slicker longer than you will ever get from any wax.
Aerospace 303 was created for racing boats and planes to cut down on friction.

Usually, all you will need to do is use a California Duster to keep it clean. Dirt, grime and most other things, really don't stick to it. If you do a good job applying it, and dust it regularly, it can easily last for at least a year. If you get gunk, or bird crap on it, just lightly wipe it off with a damp cloth. If you a stickler for finish (like me), use a spray detailer (like people use on vehicles at car shows). That makes it even slicker. Even dust has a hard time sticking to it.

It is also a great product to use on your RV roof (rubber) because it is a fantastic UV blocker. It isn't cheap, and I think they sell it at camping world now. If you aren't near one of their stores, you buy it at places like West Marine.

[Iggy]

Thx All
I know their are plenty of great products out there but I need to get rid of swirl marks first and then I can use other waterless spray waxes.

[360true]

The aerospace 303 is a great UV blocker for the fibreglass roof too. I apply after I scrub it 2x per year. Be sure to stay off it until completely dry as it is slippery when wet

[BamaBob]

Originally Posted by CTMDP

Just for the heck of it I will throw my two cents into this thread. I go through quite a process when washing my 351DS. I use a portable scaffold purchased from Harbor Freight to get the top half. <SNIP>

GAAAAA! A portable Scaffold? I'll Pass and use the extendable pole that comes with my Wash Wax All kit.

Even though I am 7,000LBS under my max CCC, I am not sure where I could store a portable scaffold

[gmann32]

I use Rain-x with little yellow carnival wax balls in it! Get it at Walmart! I have a full paint job and I get a lot of compliments on how it shines! I wash it and let it dry! That all there is to it!

[Jim G]

Last month's Motor Home magazine had a several page article written by a professional RV detailer. He had some excellent ideas as well as recommendations of professional products. After using a professional quality swirl remover and polish he finishes with a polymer sealer. It is used by show car enthusiasts and creates a hard shiny finish. I could not find one at the local auto supply stores so I will order some on line and try it.

[BamaBob]

Originally Posted by 360true

The aerospace 303 is a great UV blocker for the fibreglass roof too. I apply after I scrub it 2x per year. Be sure to stay off it until completely dry as it is slippery when wet

The Wash Wax All Belly wash is another great treatment for a fiberglass roof. Plus it has the added advantage of being waterless so you do not have a slippery roof