Considering upgrading from a FR3 to a Georgetown

[camaraderie]

Originally Posted by Vince and Charlette

I must be missing something. Bought 2015 GT 364TS in Jan and have put on 6,000 miles. Coach is fantastic! But, the chassis F53 is pitiful. It's worth repeating the big three problems I've addressed before: power, i.e. torque is sad. I spend a lot of time at or near 5,000 rpm just to maintain speed even on the smallest hills. Engine noise is incredible. Can't carry on a conversation without yelling when you're at higher rpm. Worst of all is sway. So far, I've spent $2,600 trying to deal with it...tracbar, steering stabilizer, wheel alignment and rear anti-sway bar. All this netted little improvement. The two most common responses I get are: "Get over it" and "If you wanted power, low noise and a stable vehicle, you should have bought a DP. Like I said, the coach is great, better yet, we're still debt free!

Since every gas class A in all brands is built on this chassis and engine... I'm thinking that it is not a meaningful decision point on choosing a Gtown vs. an FR3 or other major brand gqsser. I don't have the RPM problems you describe..or the sway...but the latter is probably chassis length related.
Good luck getting to the bottom of your issues.

[glenn56h]

Originally Posted by fdp

Considering upgrading from a FR3 to a Georgetown and would like opinions and experiences. Would you buy a Georgetown again or buy a another manufacture

FDP

05 gtwn 375 xl TS I bought one would not do it again fuses are next to batteries under stairs open to SALT cabinet is loose even after I replaced 80 lb old tv

[compman69]

Originally Posted by Iggy

On a flat road with out a headwind I usually run 2000 to 2200 rpms and that relates to about 65 mph. If you are getting anything different I would think the engine needs to be checked by Ford.
At 60-65 mph my sound level is reasonable.
I did see that the dog house on the 2015 is bare. Mine is covered with carpet and that may be what makes mine a little more reasonable with engine noise.
Now you also know that your car plus fuel and cargo could me maxing your 5,000 lb tow rate. Not to mention your motorhome cargo, fuel, etc.


Just some information to help you.
Good luck

My 328ts has a padded doghouse. The noise level is not bad unless I really have my foot in the carburetor, I have thought of putting Dynomat on the underside for heat and noise.
I did agree that the battery box is open to the outside. I am going to look into a mud flap or something to help deflect some of the water.
I do spray it down with fresh and clean the area when I am washing the rig.

[glenn56h]

I am having a cover fabricated for fuse block as to the batterys will put them in boxes bolted ( ss) to bottom

in south they use a SALT SOLUTION not just salt

replaced ALL fuses sprayed contact cleaner still have shorts

[Vince and Charlette]

Compman69, Is the padded doghouse OEM or an add-on? I'd sure like to put my hands on a pad like that.

[glenn56h]

fuse block cover custom built marine fiberglass by my sons friend
quite an undertaking (lots of swearing) you have to drill a hole and tap the steel beam also

[compman69]

Originally Posted by Vince and Charlette

Compman69, Is the padded doghouse OEM or an add-on? I'd sure like to put my hands on a pad like that.

The Padded Dog house is standard on the 2015. The only carpet on my coach is next to the bed on the rear of the coach. I haven't figured that out since there is no carpet anywhere else. I can take a pic if you would like and post since I am heading out soon!

[camaraderie]

Here's a pix of mine...2015 model.

[compman69]

Originally Posted by camaraderie

Here's a pix of mine...2015 model.

Pretty much the same as mine!


Congrats Camaraderie!

[camaraderie]

Thanks...had it about a year now...still breaking it in!
Good luck with yours...nice layout!

[Vince and Charlette]

Compman69. The doghouse cover is just like mine. I mistakenly thought you were referring to some other added cover. Still, the noise level is high, but I'm getting used to it...except at or around 5,000 rpm!

[wrapperman]

My 2013 378 has carpet in the front as well as on the dog house. I am not bothered by the engine noise except when the fan clutch is engaged and it downshifts to 4500 RPM's.
I have read from others posts, they talk about a noise deadening pad that was attached under the dog house, facing the engine. It was for sound and heat. They attached it with high temperature adhesive. Sounds like it may work for others.

[compman69]

Originally Posted by Vince and Charlette

Compman69. The doghouse cover is just like mine. I mistakenly thought you were referring to some other added cover. Still, the noise level is high, but I'm getting used to it...except at or around 5,000 rpm!

A friend of mine worked in Car Audio, so engine noise and other external noises was a no no. He told me to dampen the noise and reduce heat from the interior, to use dynamat anywhere you can.
Dynamat Online Store

It isn't cheap he said but works good!

[Vince and Charlette]

Thanks Compman69. The Dynamat site has several options for sound deadening. One thing we need to be careful about is the clearance between the top of the engine and the underside of the doghouse. There may not be enough room to put on another layer of lining. Just check it out before you order. Regardless, these guys appear to have one or more good solutions.

[bmurph44]

Originally Posted by Vince and Charlette

But, the chassis F53 is pitiful. It's worth repeating the big three problems I've addressed before: power, i.e. torque is sad. I spend a lot of time at or near 5,000 rpm just to maintain speed even on the smallest hills. Engine noise is incredible. Can't carry on a conversation without yelling when you're at higher rpm. Worst of all is sway.

Maybe you need to change your driving habits, if you want to consistently run 70 mph that's probably going to happen. When I'm running 70 and reach a hill and the RPMs jump I tap off the cruise and use my foot to control RPMs, I would rather slow down a few MPH than have the motor revving that high plus you will do better on fuel mileage.....

[Vince and Charlette]

bmurph44. Thanks for the good exchange. Like so many others, I make it a habit to never drive over 65...it's just unsafe and unnecessary. I'm also one of those rare birds that try to obey the speed limits whether I am on city streets or the interstate. While I don't use cruise control on hills, I am surprised by those on another thread who said they downshift themselves. There is an interesting article on the Ford F53 forum about this topic. A design engineer said that it's "old school" to downshift the vehicle yourself. Trust us engineers who designed the system to know when it's supposed to shift." Fortunately, they did leave one decision to us, when to use "tow/haul".

[camaraderie]

Originally Posted by compman69

A friend of mine worked in Car Audio, so engine noise and other external noises was a no no. He told me to dampen the noise and reduce heat from the interior, to use dynamat anywhere you can.
Dynamat Online Store

It isn't cheap he said but works good!

I was in that same business and ditto your friends recommendation. For Vince & Charlette...

One thing though is that most of the Dynamat products are principally concerned with dB levels and vibration ...there is nothing better for this than the Dynamat Extreme products.
However if you want both SOME noise reduction and reduced HEAT...the the Dyanamat Hoodliner would be a better choice. The ultimate solution (and $$!) would be the Extreme with a second layer of Dynaliner to block the heat.
Even the two layers should be fine in thickness in the cover as it is prolly not even 3/4 of an inch. You can expect about a 30-40% drop in noise levels FROM THAT LOCATION and a LOT of heat reduction. Of course engine noise is not only from the covered area so you need to be realistic in your expectations or put down more Dynamat in other areas like under the carpet.
For myself...I haven't found any need to do this as we normally truck along at 60-65 in the 2000-3000 rpm range and I just back off a bit when she downshifts. I wonder if something like the 5 Star Tune Up product might provide a better solution as something still sounds wrong to me if you're spending a lot of time in the 4-6k range.
2. Ford 1996-2016 6.8L V10 RV / Motor Home ONLY! NEW Livewire TS+ 5 Star Tune - 5 Star Tuning

I have ZERO experience with this product but some here swear by it. There should be some threads on it.

[Vince and Charlette]

While the Livewire sounds like a real plus, I suspect it would have a major, negative impact on the engine warranty. Otherwise, I'd jump on it. Regarding speed, I too truck along at 2,000-3,000 rpm in states like Ohio, Indiana, Iowa, etc. But, go west and it's a whole different story. If I don't keep it at 4,500-5,000 rpm on a hill or mountain, I simply slow to a dangerously low speed especially when there is only one lane. Have you been west or into the Blue Ridge mountains in the east? It's odd to me that I get some that agree with me and others that tell me I'm going to higher rpm when I don't need to. So, I'm still baffled.

[camaraderie]

Originally Posted by Vince and Charlette

While the Livewire sounds like a real plus, I suspect it would have a major, negative impact on the engine warranty. Otherwise, I'd jump on it.

Good point..I did a search and you are absolutley right. It CAN void your warranty if damage is related to the tune and they CAN detect that a tune was done even if you reset it to factory.

Regarding speed, I too truck along at 2,000-3,000 rpm in states like Ohio, Indiana, Iowa, etc. But, go west and it's a whole different story. If I don't keep it at 4,500-5,000 rpm on a hill or mountain, I simply slow to a dangerously low speed especially when there is only one lane. Have you been west or into the Blue Ridge mountains in the east? It's odd to me that I get some that agree with me and others that tell me I'm going to higher rpm when I don't need to. So, I'm still baffled.

Right again...I've just been east coastal...heading out to the wild places soon though so perhaps I'll have a different perspective when I get to the left coast.

[LittlePM]

Originally Posted by Vince and Charlette

I always try stay at or below 65 or the posted speed limit. Yes, it's pretty fundamental to increase speed and torque before a hill, which is great if it's a short hill. I tow an empty Jeep Liberty with nothing in it but gas. That works out to about 4,300 pounds. When I'm doing hills and valley, or long grades I use tow/haul the majority of the time and judgment the rest of the time. Go to the Ford Forum and you can find some interesting discussion on shifting. When in other than tow/haul the Ford engineers say to let the transmission do what it as designed to do, i.e. decide on the optimum time to shift. Looking at the threads and replies you can tell this is not an uncommon problem. Nope, I haven't gone to a dealer. Since this is my first gasser, and all my prior experience is with diesels, I may be carrying over some wrong techniques.

We were having the same problem until I asked about the tow/haul, you don't need to use it all the time, it is best to use it going down hill to help slow you down. Your Georgetown will pull that jeep just fine without the button pushed, and your RPM won't be so high.

By the way we love our Georgetown XL 378, we have had very fuse issues (all minor) and yes I would buy another one.