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Old 07-06-2015, 09:06 PM   #31
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Compman69. The doghouse cover is just like mine. I mistakenly thought you were referring to some other added cover. Still, the noise level is high, but I'm getting used to it...except at or around 5,000 rpm!
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Old 07-06-2015, 09:16 PM   #32
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My 2013 378 has carpet in the front as well as on the dog house. I am not bothered by the engine noise except when the fan clutch is engaged and it downshifts to 4500 RPM's.
I have read from others posts, they talk about a noise deadening pad that was attached under the dog house, facing the engine. It was for sound and heat. They attached it with high temperature adhesive. Sounds like it may work for others.
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Old 07-06-2015, 11:01 PM   #33
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Compman69. The doghouse cover is just like mine. I mistakenly thought you were referring to some other added cover. Still, the noise level is high, but I'm getting used to it...except at or around 5,000 rpm!
A friend of mine worked in Car Audio, so engine noise and other external noises was a no no. He told me to dampen the noise and reduce heat from the interior, to use dynamat anywhere you can.
Dynamat Online Store

It isn't cheap he said but works good!
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Old 07-06-2015, 11:35 PM   #34
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Thanks Compman69. The Dynamat site has several options for sound deadening. One thing we need to be careful about is the clearance between the top of the engine and the underside of the doghouse. There may not be enough room to put on another layer of lining. Just check it out before you order. Regardless, these guys appear to have one or more good solutions.
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Old 07-07-2015, 08:41 AM   #35
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But, the chassis F53 is pitiful. It's worth repeating the big three problems I've addressed before: power, i.e. torque is sad. I spend a lot of time at or near 5,000 rpm just to maintain speed even on the smallest hills. Engine noise is incredible. Can't carry on a conversation without yelling when you're at higher rpm. Worst of all is sway.
Maybe you need to change your driving habits, if you want to consistently run 70 mph that's probably going to happen. When I'm running 70 and reach a hill and the RPMs jump I tap off the cruise and use my foot to control RPMs, I would rather slow down a few MPH than have the motor revving that high plus you will do better on fuel mileage.....
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Old 07-07-2015, 09:52 AM   #36
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bmurph44. Thanks for the good exchange. Like so many others, I make it a habit to never drive over 65...it's just unsafe and unnecessary. I'm also one of those rare birds that try to obey the speed limits whether I am on city streets or the interstate. While I don't use cruise control on hills, I am surprised by those on another thread who said they downshift themselves. There is an interesting article on the Ford F53 forum about this topic. A design engineer said that it's "old school" to downshift the vehicle yourself. Trust us engineers who designed the system to know when it's supposed to shift." Fortunately, they did leave one decision to us, when to use "tow/haul".
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Old 07-07-2015, 10:36 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by compman69 View Post
A friend of mine worked in Car Audio, so engine noise and other external noises was a no no. He told me to dampen the noise and reduce heat from the interior, to use dynamat anywhere you can.
Dynamat Online Store

It isn't cheap he said but works good!
I was in that same business and ditto your friends recommendation. For Vince & Charlette...

One thing though is that most of the Dynamat products are principally concerned with dB levels and vibration ...there is nothing better for this than the Dynamat Extreme products.
However if you want both SOME noise reduction and reduced HEAT...the the Dyanamat Hoodliner would be a better choice. The ultimate solution (and $$!) would be the Extreme with a second layer of Dynaliner to block the heat.
Even the two layers should be fine in thickness in the cover as it is prolly not even 3/4 of an inch. You can expect about a 30-40% drop in noise levels FROM THAT LOCATION and a LOT of heat reduction. Of course engine noise is not only from the covered area so you need to be realistic in your expectations or put down more Dynamat in other areas like under the carpet.
For myself...I haven't found any need to do this as we normally truck along at 60-65 in the 2000-3000 rpm range and I just back off a bit when she downshifts. I wonder if something like the 5 Star Tune Up product might provide a better solution as something still sounds wrong to me if you're spending a lot of time in the 4-6k range.
2. Ford 1996-2016 6.8L V10 RV / Motor Home ONLY! NEW Livewire TS+ 5 Star Tune - 5 Star Tuning

I have ZERO experience with this product but some here swear by it. There should be some threads on it.
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Old 07-07-2015, 01:39 PM   #38
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While the Livewire sounds like a real plus, I suspect it would have a major, negative impact on the engine warranty. Otherwise, I'd jump on it. Regarding speed, I too truck along at 2,000-3,000 rpm in states like Ohio, Indiana, Iowa, etc. But, go west and it's a whole different story. If I don't keep it at 4,500-5,000 rpm on a hill or mountain, I simply slow to a dangerously low speed especially when there is only one lane. Have you been west or into the Blue Ridge mountains in the east? It's odd to me that I get some that agree with me and others that tell me I'm going to higher rpm when I don't need to. So, I'm still baffled.
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Old 07-07-2015, 02:23 PM   #39
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While the Livewire sounds like a real plus, I suspect it would have a major, negative impact on the engine warranty. Otherwise, I'd jump on it.
Good point..I did a search and you are absolutley right. It CAN void your warranty if damage is related to the tune and they CAN detect that a tune was done even if you reset it to factory.

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Regarding speed, I too truck along at 2,000-3,000 rpm in states like Ohio, Indiana, Iowa, etc. But, go west and it's a whole different story. If I don't keep it at 4,500-5,000 rpm on a hill or mountain, I simply slow to a dangerously low speed especially when there is only one lane. Have you been west or into the Blue Ridge mountains in the east? It's odd to me that I get some that agree with me and others that tell me I'm going to higher rpm when I don't need to. So, I'm still baffled.
Right again...I've just been east coastal...heading out to the wild places soon though so perhaps I'll have a different perspective when I get to the left coast.
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Old 07-07-2015, 03:29 PM   #40
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I always try stay at or below 65 or the posted speed limit. Yes, it's pretty fundamental to increase speed and torque before a hill, which is great if it's a short hill. I tow an empty Jeep Liberty with nothing in it but gas. That works out to about 4,300 pounds. When I'm doing hills and valley, or long grades I use tow/haul the majority of the time and judgment the rest of the time. Go to the Ford Forum and you can find some interesting discussion on shifting. When in other than tow/haul the Ford engineers say to let the transmission do what it as designed to do, i.e. decide on the optimum time to shift. Looking at the threads and replies you can tell this is not an uncommon problem. Nope, I haven't gone to a dealer. Since this is my first gasser, and all my prior experience is with diesels, I may be carrying over some wrong techniques.
We were having the same problem until I asked about the tow/haul, you don't need to use it all the time, it is best to use it going down hill to help slow you down. Your Georgetown will pull that jeep just fine without the button pushed, and your RPM won't be so high.

By the way we love our Georgetown XL 378, we have had very fuse issues (all minor) and yes I would buy another one.
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