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Old 04-27-2013, 09:52 PM   #31
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While searching found this "wall lining" .090" thick between 1/16 (.062") 1/8" (.125"). Open the brochure attached and zoom up on the white photos. I wonder if this is the same material. Its glass and in this case in used in Lavatory walls. Goofing around in this site it shows expansion gaps in installation for thermal changes? I couldn't remember where I say this weird pebble surface before-----now I think I remember!





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Old 04-27-2013, 10:27 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VinceU View Post
While searching found this "wall lining" .090" thick between 1/16 (.062") 1/8" (.125"). Open the brochure attached and zoom up on the white photos. I wonder if this is the same material. Its glass and in this case in used in Lavatory walls. Goofing around in this site it shows expansion gaps in installation for thermal changes? I couldn't remember where I say this weird pebble surface before-----now I think I remember!
The FRP (Fiberglass Reinforced Panel) is used in lots of commercial applications and lots of bathrooms.
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:06 PM   #33
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The FRP (Fiberglass Reinforced Panel) is used in lots of commercial applications and lots of bathrooms.
Yes, we're trying to find why it cracks. Could be it's being cut too close to roof penetrations like vent openings, not allowing for expansion. Just found this passage which recommends 100% adhesion, I know that wasn't always accomplished. I certainly recognized the stuff but could not figure where it came from. Its warranted for 10 years in some installations but what went wrong, the ops motorhome is 3 years old!

"STANDARD WALL PANEL INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
Generally, frp panels can be installed using adhesive alone, fasteners alone, or a combination of adhesiveand fasteners. The method used should be determined by the room and wall conditions (see the wall
conditions noted above). Check your local building codes for any restrictions or guidelines regarding approved installation methods.
ADHESIVE
If adhesive is used, be sure that it is an frp-formulated product. Frp adhesives are widely available. Follow
the adhesive manufacturer's recommendations for trowel style (e.g., appropriate height of adhesive bead
left by trowel). It is important to apply adhesive carefully and follow all directions to prevent problems that
may result from using too little or too much adhesive. 100% adhesive coverage is recommended using a
"crosshatch" pattern. Adhesive should extend to all edges of the panel and should be applied directly to
the back of each individual frp panel."

Not for certain this is it, but sure looks like it.
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:13 AM   #34
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ohiobill, can you post some picture?
Lochsa, will do as soon as weather permits.

Mine look nearly identical to yours, seeming to run across the roof on a seam, probably where the plywood sheets meet.

I plan to call FR on Monday. Who did you talk to there? I don't think I'd be interested in a metal strip and screw fix...
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Old 04-28-2013, 02:08 PM   #35
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As Iggy suggested, I spoke with:

Steven Stombaugh
Service and Warranty
574-206-7611 Ph.
574-206-2484 Fax
sstombaugh@forestriverinc.com

He's a very nice guy. Let us know the outcome.
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Old 04-28-2013, 02:36 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VinceU View Post
Yes, we're trying to find why it cracks. Could be it's being cut too close to roof penetrations like vent openings, not allowing for expansion. Just found this passage which recommends 100% adhesion, I know that wasn't always accomplished. I certainly recognized the stuff but could not figure where it came from. Its warranted for 10 years in some installations but what went wrong, the ops motorhome is 3 years old!

"STANDARD WALL PANEL INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
Generally, frp panels can be installed using adhesive alone, fasteners alone, or a combination of adhesiveand fasteners. The method used should be determined by the room and wall conditions (see the wall
conditions noted above). Check your local building codes for any restrictions or guidelines regarding approved installation methods.
ADHESIVE
If adhesive is used, be sure that it is an frp-formulated product. Frp adhesives are widely available. Follow
the adhesive manufacturer's recommendations for trowel style (e.g., appropriate height of adhesive bead
left by trowel). It is important to apply adhesive carefully and follow all directions to prevent problems that
may result from using too little or too much adhesive. 100% adhesive coverage is recommended using a
"crosshatch" pattern. Adhesive should extend to all edges of the panel and should be applied directly to
the back of each individual frp panel."

Not for certain this is it, but sure looks like it.
I have never known FRP to be an exterior product.
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:51 PM   #37
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I have never known FRP to be an exterior product.
Bad news is this stuff is more plastic than fiber! "Fiber reinforced plastic" like I said, ain't no vette or boat.
"FIBERGLASS REINFORCED PLASTIC (FRP) PANELS" this is .090" thick or less bonded to a substrate. Just important is secured properly or allowed to "float". I think sometimes this was overlooked.
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:44 AM   #38
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Mine are marked 16-18" apart on roof. Just thinking fibreglas is made with woven cloth and epoxy coating. Roof cloth is thin but it also works normally without cracking unless its over stressed. Phil had a good idea bout faulty fabrication. This stuff comes in a roll and installed in one sheet on the roof. It should not crack in a systematic way that your is. If it continues it would become a mainsail heading down the highway, what a mess. Pics I've seen of install is glue tracks in a sinuous path of narrow lines. That would allow the plywood below to work in the longitudinal direction cause is like a spring. Who knows what happened with the failing roofs. FR advertises 10 year roof, hope they stick by you. Meanwhile photos to the roof sheet maker keeps them advised and involved.

Concerning the pictures of the install process you've seen, can you recall exactly what the glue line patterns looked like (i.e. spacing, direction, etc)?

Also, suppose the 4' spaced cracks on my roof line up directly with the glue tracks. Other than the dicor perimeter and cutouts (a/c, sky light, etc..), there really doesn't seem to be anything else holding the roof on, does it?

Also, I have another theory: Is it possible that anincorrect type of epoxy was used to secure the roof thus reacting with the fiberglass over time? Note the delamination.
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:28 PM   #39
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ohiobill, can you post some picture?
Lochsa, here are some pictures of my roof. So far it doesn't seem to have the ridges yours does and the cracks do not go all the way accross. Yet!

The first picture is near the shower skyight, the second is the right side of the vent, with a macro shot, then the left side of the vent.
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:58 PM   #40
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Your motorhome is flexing but these cracks started by a screw hole.
Those look like fracture cracks being so jaggered. I bet you will find out that each were started by a screw being drilled into something under the weather proofing stuff around the vent.

If it was straight I would say it was a manufacturing defect in the making of the product.


My thought only.
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