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Old 04-29-2013, 03:14 PM   #41
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This looks to be yet another really dumb idea from FR.
I know many were impressed to have a fibreglass roof, but may now be having second thoughts?
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Old 04-29-2013, 03:18 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by bakken View Post
This looks to be yet another really dumb idea from FR.
I know many were impressed to have a fibreglass roof, but may now be having second thoughts?
Yes I was one who thought it was a great feature and selling point.
It now seems that thickness is way to think for roofs and unable to flex with the framework. I don't have any cracking yet but will keep a close eye on it.

I think everyone should check their roofs to see if it is specific to a particular year or not.
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Old 04-29-2013, 03:21 PM   #43
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I'm going to contact FR again about a roof replacement. They have a new team over there and I'm certain they'll help out.
Let us know.
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Old 04-29-2013, 04:05 PM   #44
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The question still remains, what to do about it. Forget about resale, will Eternabond or Dicor be a long-term solution or is a new roof replacement required?

I'm thinking FR's response about screwing in strips across the cracks is probably not a good idea. Assuming the cracks are stress related (from existing screw holes). Imagine the cracks going in the other direction from front to back.

Iggy, I have yet heard back from FR concerning the roof replacement.
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:29 PM   #45
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Georgetown Roof Inspection

Checked my roof in the rain! Here's some pics. As I left the ladder and stepped onto the roof, noted a sign "slippery when wet!" Well it really isn't slippery at all. However looking for indications like others I noted a large "crack" at the ladder securing flange, right near a hole. Since it was raining I went to the vents and noted in my pics irregular trails coming from the sealant. I couldn't believe my eyes. On inspection with it seemed odd they would start and stop like other pics in this thread. I put my thumbnail in one and it felt like an opening, however when I scrapped hard across it, it came off. Mine are not cracks at all, its simply debris stuck in the valley of the pebble surface. How relieved I was, hoping for some of you others you can have the same finding! I suspect a Dicor applicator left tiny trails of sealant dripping from the nozzle. There is a way to stop the cracking once it starts. Its called "stoppering" or a stopper hole. It should be small diameter maybe .125" or 1/8" only through the roof material, not the wood. Cover end to source with self leveling Dicor sealant, with cleaned surface. A lot better than straps and more ragged holes.

If you are looking for a way to temp store the sink covers, what a pain, I picked up this pot lid rack in Wally World last winter. I cut the rack so the lower bars extend past the top. Drilled some 1/8" holes in the bottom of the cab. wall and shoved the rack in maybe 2". That made it very stable and for dishes, have a place for the sink covers!
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:16 AM   #46
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Concerning the pictures of the install process you've seen, can you recall exactly what the glue line patterns looked like (i.e. spacing, direction, etc)?

Also, suppose the 4' spaced cracks on my roof line up directly with the glue tracks. Other than the dicor perimeter and cutouts (a/c, sky light, etc..), there really doesn't seem to be anything else holding the roof on, does it?

Also, I have another theory: Is it possible that anincorrect type of epoxy was used to secure the roof thus reacting with the fiberglass over time? Note the delamination.
Third attempt, something keeps tripping out and erasing.
Lou,

To answer your above questions, my roof does not have the lump spacing at 4' intervals. I see it in your pictures but this one is flat.
I saw about 5 indications of dark lines coming from corners or screws. Worst was at the ladder darker and wider than the others. All however turned out to be not cracks.
I saw the roof gluing when a op was at the factory for his build of a 5th wheel pretty recently. His pics showed the wood being installed, a sine wave glue pattern applied and the roof membrane
It appears different methods are used for the install, I would recheck some of your failures to ensure they really are. The one near the cap is very suspect to me cause there really isn't a source of great stress. at the end like that. Better luck, hope you get resolved with FR. Better to use stress relief and seal than strips and more stress points as they proposed.
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Old 04-30-2013, 02:50 PM   #47
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My 2010 FR Georgetown went back to factory in December to replace the entire roof after problems over driver area with delamination, leaks, screws coming up etc and the inside ceiling coming off. Persistence with April Connor finally got them to replace it.
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Old 05-02-2013, 03:30 PM   #48
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Roof Comparison

I found the pictured use of the FRP a few days ago and took a picture and also managed to find a loose edge to see construction. This isn't the fiberglass we normally experience. This stuff has a hard stiff backing, looks just like "Micarta" a Westinghouse formula for FG using very small weave and tiny strands to make a almost wood product. Orig for insulator componets of high voltage switchboards. The piece I was looking at was maybe .040-.050 thickness including the epoxy pebbled surface. Together it forms a durable strong surface but I suspect its somewhat brittle. This surface was not bonded to the substrate except in minor areas. Here its set in place and there's no movement. Used on a roof I think you must restrict all movement by gluing and have clearance around fastener to prevent stress at the contact of the hardpoint and FG. One other observation, not positive, but it seems the fracturing affects 2010 owners more than others.

Comparison photos are FR roof and mens room wall. The top of pic is a mirror above adjacent sink Picture rolled to the right.
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Old 05-03-2013, 02:13 PM   #49
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Not sure if this is the same roofing as the class c foresters, but it looks identical. White pebble finish and real thin. If it is, it is in fact FRP, made by Crane Composites. I think just about every MH manufacturer with fiberglass roofs has experienced the crack problem at some point or another, each with their own remedy. Makes me love epdm all over again.
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Old 05-07-2013, 12:47 PM   #50
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I dropped my unit off at CW to have the roof inspected and to come up with a suggested appropriate long-term solution. The service manager will contact Steve Stombaugh with their findings and discuss the next steps. I plan to keep everyone informed on the findings and FR's responses.
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