Cracks in roof

[bakken]

This looks to be yet another really dumb idea from FR.
I know many were impressed to have a fibreglass roof, but may now be having second thoughts?

[Iggy]

Originally Posted by bakken

This looks to be yet another really dumb idea from FR.
I know many were impressed to have a fibreglass roof, but may now be having second thoughts?

Yes I was one who thought it was a great feature and selling point.
It now seems that thickness is way to think for roofs and unable to flex with the framework. I don't have any cracking yet but will keep a close eye on it.

I think everyone should check their roofs to see if it is specific to a particular year or not.

[Iggy]

Originally Posted by lochsa

I'm going to contact FR again about a roof replacement. They have a new team over there and I'm certain they'll help out.

Let us know.

[lochsa]

The question still remains, what to do about it. Forget about resale, will Eternabond or Dicor be a long-term solution or is a new roof replacement required?

I'm thinking FR's response about screwing in strips across the cracks is probably not a good idea. Assuming the cracks are stress related (from existing screw holes). Imagine the cracks going in the other direction from front to back.

Iggy, I have yet heard back from FR concerning the roof replacement.

[VinceU]

Checked my roof in the rain! Here's some pics. As I left the ladder and stepped onto the roof, noted a sign "slippery when wet!" Well it really isn't slippery at all. However looking for indications like others I noted a large "crack" at the ladder securing flange, right near a hole. Since it was raining I went to the vents and noted in my pics irregular trails coming from the sealant. I couldn't believe my eyes. On inspection with it seemed odd they would start and stop like other pics in this thread. I put my thumbnail in one and it felt like an opening, however when I scrapped hard across it, it came off. Mine are not cracks at all, its simply debris stuck in the valley of the pebble surface. How relieved I was, hoping for some of you others you can have the same finding! I suspect a Dicor applicator left tiny trails of sealant dripping from the nozzle. There is a way to stop the cracking once it starts. Its called "stoppering" or a stopper hole. It should be small diameter maybe .125" or 1/8" only through the roof material, not the wood. Cover end to source with self leveling Dicor sealant, with cleaned surface. A lot better than straps and more ragged holes.

If you are looking for a way to temp store the sink covers, what a pain, I picked up this pot lid rack in Wally World last winter. I cut the rack so the lower bars extend past the top. Drilled some 1/8" holes in the bottom of the cab. wall and shoved the rack in maybe 2". That made it very stable and for dishes, have a place for the sink covers!

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by lochsa

Concerning the pictures of the install process you've seen, can you recall exactly what the glue line patterns looked like (i.e. spacing, direction, etc)?

Also, suppose the 4' spaced cracks on my roof line up directly with the glue tracks. Other than the dicor perimeter and cutouts (a/c, sky light, etc..), there really doesn't seem to be anything else holding the roof on, does it?

Also, I have another theory: Is it possible that anincorrect type of epoxy was used to secure the roof thus reacting with the fiberglass over time? Note the delamination.

Third attempt, something keeps tripping out and erasing.
Lou,

To answer your above questions, my roof does not have the lump spacing at 4' intervals. I see it in your pictures but this one is flat.
I saw about 5 indications of dark lines coming from corners or screws. Worst was at the ladder darker and wider than the others. All however turned out to be not cracks.
I saw the roof gluing when a op was at the factory for his build of a 5th wheel pretty recently. His pics showed the wood being installed, a sine wave glue pattern applied and the roof membrane
It appears different methods are used for the install, I would recheck some of your failures to ensure they really are. The one near the cap is very suspect to me cause there really isn't a source of great stress. at the end like that. Better luck, hope you get resolved with FR. Better to use stress relief and seal than strips and more stress points as they proposed.

[MattM]

My 2010 FR Georgetown went back to factory in December to replace the entire roof after problems over driver area with delamination, leaks, screws coming up etc and the inside ceiling coming off. Persistence with April Connor finally got them to replace it.

[VinceU]

I found the pictured use of the FRP a few days ago and took a picture and also managed to find a loose edge to see construction. This isn't the fiberglass we normally experience. This stuff has a hard stiff backing, looks just like "Micarta" a Westinghouse formula for FG using very small weave and tiny strands to make a almost wood product. Orig for insulator componets of high voltage switchboards. The piece I was looking at was maybe .040-.050 thickness including the epoxy pebbled surface. Together it forms a durable strong surface but I suspect its somewhat brittle. This surface was not bonded to the substrate except in minor areas. Here its set in place and there's no movement. Used on a roof I think you must restrict all movement by gluing and have clearance around fastener to prevent stress at the contact of the hardpoint and FG. One other observation, not positive, but it seems the fracturing affects 2010 owners more than others.

Comparison photos are FR roof and mens room wall. The top of pic is a mirror above adjacent sink Picture rolled to the right.

[BigJohnD]

Not sure if this is the same roofing as the class c foresters, but it looks identical. White pebble finish and real thin. If it is, it is in fact FRP, made by Crane Composites. I think just about every MH manufacturer with fiberglass roofs has experienced the crack problem at some point or another, each with their own remedy. Makes me love epdm all over again.

[lochsa]

I dropped my unit off at CW to have the roof inspected and to come up with a suggested appropriate long-term solution. The service manager will contact Steve Stombaugh with their findings and discuss the next steps. I plan to keep everyone informed on the findings and FR's responses.

[jeeplj8]

Originally Posted by VinceU

Here's one product advertised and written up like crazy, this would help stop leaks if the glass should crack, I hope! Thinking of applying around all the openings where cracks start.

Iggy I found the 10 year quote on a competitors brochure, its by the membrane mfg as we expected, although I would think application would come to bear also. I'll keep locking, it's where FR expresses warranties, not in sales brochure. I'll keep looking, I remember seeing 1 year coach, 3 year Ford and 10 year roof.




Fiberglass RV Roof Coat, 1 Gallon

Mfr. Dicor Corporation



$70.20


Fiberglass RV Roof Coat, 1 Gallon.

• 100% acrylic resin coating forms a flexible layer over any fiberglass roof to protect and beautify
• Dicor Fiberglass RV Roof Coating gives roofs a super bright white finish, which resists mildew and algae and reflects the sun's heat to help keep the interior cooler
• Two coats are required
• One gallon of Dicor Fiberglass RV Coating will cover 350 square feet per coat

I thought I would comment on this product since I actually used to seal cracks in a fiberglass roof. We used to own a 2010 Flagstaff pop-up with the fiberglass roof. We noticed some leaks and thought it had to be the lap sealant. What we found was that the roof had thousands of micro-cracks in it, smaller and thinner than a fingernail clipping.

We talked to lots of people, concentrating more on actual fiberglass repair places than camper dealers who seemed to have no clue. They ultimately agreed in using this product.

The application is probably no more tough than paint, but it takes some time and can be frustrating with midwest weather patterns. First you use a dedicated fiberglass cleaner (also a dicor product) that strips away the oil and resin so you get a good bond. Then you roll on the fiberglass coating. The results were impressive. Shortly after we finished (and it had time to cure) we had a truly torrential rain storm. no leaks at all. Then we puled it through another storm (actually saw a few funnels with that one) and no leaks. It looked amazing (like brand new) and the finish felt extremely durable.

If I owned any RV with a fiberglass roof I would consider bi-annual application of this product as routine maintenance.

I have the remains of what we used, which is probably 3/4 gallon of the cleaner and about 1/3 gallon of the coating in the garage if anyone wants it. We now have a rubber roof.

[eyc]

Looking for an update on what is happening with resolution on this issue. I have the same issue happening on my George Town (2008). I noticed the roof starting to delaminate along the sides a year ago and when I showed it to my dealer they just said they never had this issue before and that it was nothing. Then the roof started to crack at the right front corner and now is traveling along the sides. I used lap sealant on the worst of it but really need to find a permanent fix. So far I don't see any leaks into the coach except the right front where it is worst. When I sealed it last year the leak stopped but the roof continues to crack in other sections.

[lochsa]

Just two today's ago I received a call from Steve Stombaugh letting me know that there is nothing that he can do with for me to tell me out being that I'm a second owner. Steve informed me that FR sued the roofing supplier a while back and that the company is bankrupt (I didn't get the company's name). Steve's a nice guy so nothing against him, but I would have hoped FR would have assisted (something). Steve's recommendation to me was to apply 4" eternabond strips across the seems. Then cover the tape with 6" aluminum strips sealed with lap sealant. I do also have some bubbling occurring in one of my corners and so I can only assume cracks will be forming based on eyc's experience.

[eyc]

Thanks Lou, not sure who I am more upset with right now. The dealer that told me nothing was wrong or FR for not letting their customers know that they may have an issue with their roof. I bought this RV new because I had several issues with a TPO roof on my last RV. Now I am wishing I stayed with the TPO, at least I could fix that material in my back yard. I sent FR an email and asked them for assistance in this repair, and if not I will have to see what my options are.

[4Gcampers]

It's not just georgetowns having the problem. I'm glad I read up on this here, but I have a 2014 Sunseeker with hundreds of micro cracks on the roof along the sides from front to back. I'm sure it's the same suppliers. I am in the process of making all of the formal notifications and looking for a suitable solution, not a patch on a brand new coach.

[BigJohnD]

Apparently the roof that's being used now isn't a whole lot better if they're still getting issues with cracking in a 2014 model. Though we haven't had any problems with ours, yet, I'll be glad to go back to the EPDM. As mentioned by eyc, at least the epdm or tpo stuff is easy to fix, anywhere. We always carried dicor, patch kits and eternabond with us just in case on previous trailers. Never had to use it except once, and that was a 10 minute fix. 2 screws backing out of roof decking. Small slit in roof, removed screws, a little construction adhesive, reset screws, patched and dicored section, done. I can deal with chalking, streaks and all that, I cannot deal with cracks in a roof. Think it's time for the industry to back up and punt, look at other avenues.

[eyc]

FR has asked me to bring my RV to their factory so they can take care of this issue.

[4Gcampers]

Eyc, I would really like to get some more information from you about this. I have not been able to make contact with anyone at FR who can help, and my dealer said they would have an answer in 24 hrs. That was several days ago. If you could PM me some details regarding a contact and how the issue will be resolved I would appreciate it. I already contacted our lien holder and reported the situation with our new motorhome and they were going to try to provide assistance, but that could take months.