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Old 12-27-2017, 06:01 PM   #21
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Trying to keep this thread on track.
Aztrooper needs help and is the original thread starter.
Please help him if you can!

I'm offline until tomorrow....
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Camping days 2010-53, 2011-47, 2012-41, 2013-41, 2014-31, 2015-40, 2016-44, 2017-63, 2018-75, 2019-32, 2020-41, 2021-49, 2022-43, 2023-66
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Old 12-27-2017, 06:17 PM   #22
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I just went out, very quickly (it's 6 degrees) and looked where others said their weatherization/bypass valves were because I think those lines coming out of the back of the HWH are frozen. My hot water heater is on the passenger side just behind the toilet room window and the rear of the rear axle wheel well. No white screw on cover under it and no compartment with a door. I did quickly see one of the white screw on covers just behind the mud flap but nothing I can get to right now. I'm going to look in the bedroom. There is a washer/dryer cupboard (which I am using for my closet) with a small drawer under it that I think is over the water heater but I know there is no access door in the floor of the closet. I'll take the drawer out and see if I can see/access anything from there. Just below that is where the converter/fuse box is.
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Old 12-27-2017, 06:19 PM   #23
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I know someone will ask so I'll disclose it now. I have the ONE closet where the washer/dryer would go because my wife has all the other mirrored closets filled with her clothes. haha
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Old 12-27-2017, 07:50 PM   #24
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You have a 2007 GT378 and I think it is the same as a 2012 GT378. If you are trying to find the bypass valves for the water heater that white screw on cover just behind the mud flap you saw is the access hatch for the valves. You will have to reach up inside and feel for the 3 valves. You will be able to see in there with a flashlight but not with your arm in the hole. It will be quite evident what position the valve handles are in by feel. If need be reposition them. The cross over valve should be closed (valve handle perpendicular to tube) and the other 2 valves open (valve handles in-line with tube).
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Old 12-27-2017, 08:44 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
When it comes to any appliance, like a water heater, you should tell us the make/model/manufacturer of the appliance, NOT the RV. It doesn't really tell us anything.

What is the make/model/manufacturer of your water heater?
Sorry. Should have known better. It is a suburban brand. Don't know the model number.
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Old 12-28-2017, 04:10 PM   #26
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All is well now. I guess with the propane turned on to the HWH, that thawed it out. The water in my toilet is also now flowing again. Everything thawed out with the 100w bulb in the water pump compartment and in the water filter compartment. We do have some brutal cold weather coming though. Saturday 8 then -5, Sunday 6 then -11 and Monday 8 then -3. Think I am going to get a shop light and put it in the hole behind the mudflap there the weatherization valves are and maybe let the hot water in the bathroom sink run just slightly over night. I'm also going to get a 6' heat cord for the water pump compartment and then take the light bulb out. Thanks for all your help and suggestions.
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Old 01-03-2018, 04:01 PM   #27
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I have my Georgetown 31L5 parked in front of my house. It has been there several days and will remain there for several more. I have the MH on 20 amp shore power (front porch electrical outlet).

1. Water heater is on Propane. It takes very little propane to maintain the hot water. AND, I can't run the electric side of the water heater AND the space heater at the same time.
2. I have the propane heater set to 60 degrees. I would set it lower but the FR installed thermostat won't go lower. 40 degrees is what I would prefer.
3. I have a 1500W space heater running. I would use the FR fireplace, but it is probably a 1000W or less heater and seems to have a timer on it that shuts it off after a few hours.

Over 4 days I have used about 1/8 of a tank of propane (20 gal tank).
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Old 01-03-2018, 06:56 PM   #28
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Because much is done very similar without much thought in this industry, your water heater may be behind a 18" thick piece of plastic wall that has a 3-4" screw out cover allowing you to place you hand in and GUESS for whatever that are is for, ... I removed every one of those layer screens and opened up everything so that I may service that area properly! Everyone can suffer if they choose, but if you unscrew and remove this cover (wall), you may actually be able to understand what is needed to be done.

As an example, I removed the 3 foot x 1 foot wall that covered my water tank area. It had a removable 3" hole that I was supposed to reach in and feel (can see in) for the white lever, rotate it in the correct position to allow antifreeze input, .... Now I can see what I am doing plus I have another 6-10 cuft of storage behind the tank! BTW, I redid Improved) the plumbing and added ball valves to remove the need to go under the RV and uncrew caps.

'sorry I never took any before pictures.
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Old 01-03-2018, 07:40 PM   #29
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Because much is done very similar without much thought in this industry, your water heater may be behind a 18" thick piece of plastic wall that has a 3-4" screw out cover allowing you to place you hand in and GUESS for whatever that are is for, ... I removed every one of those layer screens and opened up everything so that I may service that area properly! Everyone can suffer if they choose, but if you unscrew and remove this cover (wall), you may actually be able to understand what is needed to be done.

As an example, I removed the 3 foot x 1 foot wall that covered my water tank area. It had a removable 3" hole that I was supposed to reach in and feel (can see in) for the white lever, rotate it in the correct position to allow antifreeze input, .... Now I can see what I am doing plus I have another 6-10 cuft of storage behind the tank! BTW, I redid Improved) the plumbing and added ball valves to remove the need to go under the RV and uncrew caps.

'sorry I never took any before pictures.
I spent a lot of time in my trailer removing covers and shields so I could see what was going on behind. I put hinges on some of it and discarded some other stuff.
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Old 01-03-2018, 07:44 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by McCormickJim View Post
I have my Georgetown 31L5 parked in front of my house. It has been there several days and will remain there for several more. I have the MH on 20 amp shore power (front porch electrical outlet).

1. Water heater is on Propane. It takes very little propane to maintain the hot water. AND, I can't run the electric side of the water heater AND the space heater at the same time.
2. I have the propane heater set to 60 degrees. I would set it lower but the FR installed thermostat won't go lower. 40 degrees is what I would prefer.
3. I have a 1500W space heater running. I would use the FR fireplace, but it is probably a 1000W or less heater and seems to have a timer on it that shuts it off after a few hours.

Over 4 days I have used about 1/8 of a tank of propane (20 gal tank).
Be careful. We did that for the first month and it ended up burning the 20A outlet. Just your space heater is drawing 12.5 amps not to include the power the converter is pulling. We installed a 30A RV outlet to the side of the garage.
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Old 01-03-2018, 07:51 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by 270S View Post
Because much is done very similar without much thought in this industry, your water heater may be behind a 18" thick piece of plastic wall that has a 3-4" screw out cover allowing you to place you hand in and GUESS for whatever that are is for, ... I removed every one of those layer screens and opened up everything so that I may service that area properly! Everyone can suffer if they choose, but if you unscrew and remove this cover (wall), you may actually be able to understand what is needed to be done.

As an example, I removed the 3 foot x 1 foot wall that covered my water tank area. It had a removable 3" hole that I was supposed to reach in and feel (can see in) for the white lever, rotate it in the correct position to allow antifreeze input, .... Now I can see what I am doing plus I have another 6-10 cuft of storage behind the tank! BTW, I redid Improved) the plumbing and added ball valves to remove the need to go under the RV and uncrew caps.

'sorry I never took any before pictures.
I plan on getting into it more this spring when it's warmer. My water heater is right behind the right rear tires behind the mudflap. There is a 3" white screw cap on the hole. Haven't looked in there yet. Where is the tube to put into the antifreeze to suck it into the system?
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Old 01-03-2018, 08:07 PM   #32
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Be careful. We did that for the first month and it ended up burning the 20A outlet. Just your space heater is drawing 12.5 amps not to include the power the converter is pulling. We installed a 30A RV outlet to the side of the garage.
That. I was running a 100' AWG 10 extension cord from garage to trailer; was OK for everything but A/C, but put in a 50 Ampere pedestal last year.
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Old 01-04-2018, 10:54 AM   #33
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I plan on getting into it more this spring when it's warmer. My water heater is right behind the right rear tires behind the mudflap. There is a 3" white screw cap on the hole. Haven't looked in there yet. Where is the tube to put into the antifreeze to suck it into the system?
It is attached to that white (in my photo) selector valve connected to the water pump. As I said, everything is visible once you remove the "wall".
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Old 01-09-2018, 04:27 PM   #34
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It is attached to that white (in my photo) selector valve connected to the water pump. As I said, everything is visible once you remove the "wall".
While working on the water pump yesterday, I found that the winterization valve and hose is actually in the compartment where the water pump is. Strange place for it because it is in a compartment that is supposed to be sealed to keep the cold out and has three screws that you have to take out to access it.
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Old 01-09-2018, 05:06 PM   #35
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While working on the water pump yesterday, I found that the winterization valve and hose is actually in the compartment where the water pump is. Strange place for it because it is in a compartment that is supposed to be sealed to keep the cold out and has three screws that you have to take out to access it.
I have three similar compartments in my trailer - I hinged them to provide easy access for maintenance.
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